Another Day, Another UNESCO World Heritage Site

Don't tell Don and Jennifer, but I purposefully bought the 8:30 am Sunday morning tickets to go to Casa Batllo, another Gaudi masterpiece.   And yes, it is one of his seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  

(I have to believe that is a record for UNESCO World Heritage sites. . .and, thanks to Google, I already have learned it is not.  Frank Lloyd Wright has eight UNESCO sites in the US!) 

Casa Batllo was the first Gaudi we went to 2009. I've been looking forward to going back ever since.  It's hard to believe I waited until day 15 of the trip!

Even at 8:05 on a Sunday morning, the Metro was running quickly.  So we got there early.  There were already others there for the early morning entrance.  It cost a little more, but the sweetener is that the crowds would be fewer.  And that was nice, being able to wander around the rooms with the audio guide.

By now, you all know how I feel about Gaudi -- a true genius.  So I won't continue on, but again, if you are coming to Barcelona, don't hesitate to see all seven of his UNESCO sites, and the other houses that are not on that list.

Obviously there is more to Barcelona than Gaudi, but his work is a major part of the fabric of the city.  It also means that you need to spend at least a week here, so you can do at least some other parts of the city.  Thinking more about it, a month is about right.

Over a door to let in more light.

A very efficient fireplace -- it has two benches

on either side.  One side seats two, and the

other seats one person, so that person

can keep a close watch on the young couple!

Don photobombs my picture of the 

famed front window of Casa Batllo.

Window selfie

Gaudi included "bones" outside to 

provide more support to the facade.

Some of the decoration on the back patio.

More decoration

Ten planters on the back patio.

The rear facade.

Up on the roof.

Part of the dragon's back.

Rooftop selfie

Jennifer and Don with us!

Part of the dragon.

These are amazing in their creativity.

The center stairwell is dotted

with windows to allow more

natural light in the rooms.

This is pretty cool.  They have a camera set 

up outside.  So we're on a balcony near

the very top of the house.

After our visit to Casa Batllo, we hit a coffee shop around the block.  We were able to get an outside table and relax.  Our local shop was just two stores down from a Starbucks.  The place we stopped was better, but I will say Starbucks had a steady stream of customers!

Playing Tour Guide

Believe it or not, I didn't take any photos on Saturday.  I didn't even bring my real camera with me.  (. . .Wait for readers to recover from the shock. . .)

We were taking Don and Jennifer to the Cathedral, followed by a walk down La Ramblas.  Having done both twice already this trip, I decided to go sans camera and just play tour guide.

It's funny, third time through the Cathedral (to be clear, this is the old Cathedral in the old city, NOT Sagrada Familia) and Carol and I are still noticing new things about it.  Don and Jennifer enjoyed it.  Carol and I spent more time at each chapel.

We then headed up to Cortes de Ingles.  It's the big department store in Spain, sort of a cross between Target and Nordstrom's, except they sell wine and beer as well.  Torie first introduced us to it Cordoba last year (she had gone several times in Sevilla).  We took Don and Jennifer up to the cafeteria for a rest after the Cathedral and before Las Ramblas.  

Don met chocolate churros for the first time.  They also enjoyed the vantage point of the city views.  It's hard to think of a city with as many panoramic views available from relatively easy to get to places.  Think about it -- Park Guell, Yves' house, the rooftop bar at The Majestic Hotel, Montjuic, Cortes de Ingles, the Castle, Palau Guell rooftop, Casa Battlo rooftop, La Pedrera rooftop, just to name a few we have been to already.  There's even more, of course, including the various church towers.

After showing them around Placa Catalunya, we started our ramble down the Las Ramblas.  There is something quite different about Las Ramblas than expected.  Guidebooks bemoan the transformation of Las Ramblas from a street of local shops selling flowers and pets (among other sections) to a street of souvenir shops, tapas bars, pickpockets, street shows, beggars, and throngs of tourists.  Even with the earned cynicism toward Las Ramblas, there is something fun about it.  

No, it's not my favorite place in Barcelona.  Not even close to the top of the list.  But if you are well-versed in what to see on the street, and just off of it, it is quite an interesting place to stroll.  There's multiple fountains, a Roman necropolis, the astonishing market, an old Church, the Chinese lantern, a Gaudi house, and, of course, waiting at the bottom, Christopher Columbus.  The people watching is fun, and if you take the right precautions, you will be safe from pickpockets.  

With that perspective on the place, and a few good places to stop.  I enjoy Las Ramblas.  It's not the best thing to do in Barcelona, but if you have the time, it can be quite enjoyable.

We stopped at La Boqueria market for a walkabout.  We had been here once before with Don and Jennifer (and Yves).  We could not find a table/stools at the different restaurants (it was a long-shot on a Saturday), and they wanted to sit down.  So, we did not graze.  Instead, we stopped in a restaurant just across the alley and had a good tapas lunch.

We did take the Palau Guell tour again for the third time, as Don and Jennifer have become quite the Gaudi fans.  Think of Dr. Seuss's creations come to life.  That's the genius of Gaudi.  Of his seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, we've been to six.  Carol and I did not use the audio guides this time.  Instead we wandered from room to room, taking selfies, discovering carvings and art we had not noticed in our prior devotion to the audio guides.

(Audio guides are definitely worth it if you want to learn quite a bit about a place, but they tend to make me focus on what they are talking about, rather than the whole room.)

We did take a number of selfies that we would not have if we were using the audio guides.  So those are below.

And of course, we were once again blown away by a Gaudi rooftop.  

So, with a Gaudi-esque whimsy, here's some selfies from Palau Guell:

Exquisitely carved duck selfie.

On the back patio.

A non-selfie selfie.

Selfie in the Room of Visitors

Two couple selfie, Visitors Room

Selfie in the Central Hall

Selfie with fireplace art.

Music and Modernisme -- Who Could Ask For More

After the boat trip, we relaxed at the apartment for a few hours, before heading to get in line at El Xampanyet.  It was our third time (first time with Don and Jennifer).  We got there at 6:40, and there was already a good-sized line.  But it was worth.  The place is so much fun.

After dinner, we headed up to the Palau de la Musica Catalana (Palace of Catalan Music).  Designed by architect Lluis Domenech Montaner, it is an amazing example of the Catalan modernisme style.  Built from 1905 to 1908, it's a beautiful small concert hall.

It's a UNESCO World Heritage site, and I can see why (just how many UNESCO World Heritage sites ARE there in Barcelona?).  The building played a key role in the renaissance of Catalan pride/heritage, as it was an important base of Catalan music and culture.

I had bought tickets for the Barcelona Guitar Trio & Dance, and we really enjoyed the show.  Masters of Catalan-style guitar, the trio were joined for some songs by a handsome young man who commanded the stage when he appeared, and a beautiful young senorita who whirled and danced the flamenco.  

We were asked not to take pictures, so I obliged.  You will have to simply go see them for yourselves -- and make sure you see them at the Palau de la Musica Catalana

The trio are incredibly talented, and they mixed in humor with their art (usually in the introductions).  Many times they evoked laughter from the audience without saying a word.  Many times they evoked awe for their artistry.  Apparently they play at different venues throughout the city, but we were sure fortunate to see them at this UNESCO World Heritage site.

A stunning chandelier.

A brilliant balcony.

We need this for our stair

railing at the house.

Part of the iconic ceiling.

On stage.

The ceiling.

The upper two tiers.

Above the stage.

Our seats.

The ceiling.

Minerva: A Three Hour Tour

Knowing that Don is a boat enthusiast, I had searched, successfully as it turns out, for an affordable private boat charter.  I found Captain Noah Woodman and his boat, the Minerva pretty quickly, and booked it for a 9 am three hour tour.  I figured the water would be calmer then, and I was right.

Captain Noah did a nice job communicating prior to the trip.  It was an easy mile walk down to Port Olympic from our apartment.  Carol had put together some snacks, including nuts, peaches, grapes, cheese, and bread.  While a beer on the water was an appealing idea, we skipped it, as we were going out in the morning.

After a thorough safety briefing, we cast off.  Well, Captain Noah cast off.  We sat around and enjoyed being on a boat.

From the website:

Minerva is a British flagged, French built Arcoa 1017 measuring 9.85 metres (Blogger note: a bit over 32 feet) with comfortable and spacious seating to accommodate up to eight guests centered around a table for refreshments and nibbles. The back of the yacht is sports a skirt deck and drop down ladder for swimming.  The yacht is fitted with very reliable twin Volvo Penta 200 hp engines that have recently been comprehensively serviced. It also has GPS, auto pilot, depth finder and both fixed and portable VHF radio. 

We cruised north along the coastline. Don sat up with Captain Noah, and then I went up and talked to him a bit.  We passed by some interesting buildings, including an old power plant with unique chimneys.  Don was quite taken by it, as he is a former engineer.

We also enjoyed closer up views of the mountains that hug the coast.  Barcelona is surrounded by mountains on three sides -- and of course has its own mini-mountain in Montjuic.

Noah anchored the boat as I got my swim trunks on.  I then jumped into the Med at a depth of around 20 feet.  The water was bracing at first, but I got used to it quickly.  It turned out to be quite refreshing.  The picturesque shoreline for the town of Badalona (where's Goodalona?) provided a pretty back drop to my swim.  After a bit of desultory swimming, I clambered back onto the boat, and we enjoyed a snack as we bobbed in the water.

Groups of exuberant Spanish kids, probably about 10-12 years old, came by on kayaks and a huge SUP -- there were ten kids on each SUP.  They would paddle past the boat, shouting friendly hellos and waving.  They were excited to test out their English by talking to Americans (that won't last).  They also had fun falling/jumping off the SUP.  Their adult teacher paddled by, enjoying this class.

As Noah got ready to head back, I went out to the front of the boat to lay on the cushions.  That was quite comfortable as we cruised back.  After a bit I went back, and then hung with Don and Noah as we headed into port.

All in all, it was a great morning, and a nice added vantage point of Barcelona.  It would have been a shame to be here a month and not get out on a boat on the storied Med.

After that we had a nice lunch in a waterfront restaurant.

Leaving port.  The Minerva is one of

the few powerboats in Port Olympic.

The iconic W Hotel.

Don on the left, Noah on the wheel.

Decommissioned power plant.

Very interesting stacks.

The town of Badalona.

The warm Med.

Spanish kids enjoying their time on the water.

The Minerva -- off the website.

I did NOT take this photo!

La Pedrera -- No Such Thing As Too Much Gaudi

We took Don and Jennifer to La Pedrera for their first Gaudi.  An apartment building, the critics were unmerciful when it first built.  It's actual name is Casa Mila.  La Pedrera is the derisive nickname that snooty Barcelonians gave it, meaning the "the quarry," as they mocked it for looking like a quarry.

Don't feel sorry for Gaudi.  La Pedrera is a UNESCO World Heritage site (as it should be), so he got the sweetest revenge.

The coolest part of La Pedrera is the rooftop, which is where we went via elevator after a brief start in the open air courtyard of the building.  The rooftop chimneys are said to be the inspiration for the storm trooper helmets in Star Wars.

After wandering around the roof for a while, we headed down to the attic, and then to the one floor that is open.  That floor is set up as it would have been when first occupied.  Gaudi's creative use of shapes and light really shows through here.

I could wax on rhapsodically about Gaudi and La Pedrera, but I will let the photos do the talking.

Rooftop selfie

One of the balconies. Photo taken from the street.

Photo of part of the roof from

the street.  Awesome zoom.

From the courtyard looking up.

It's a cheesy green screen photo, but it

shows the size of La Pedrera.  And us.

Group pic, non-selfie division.

Love these rooftop chimneys.

Gaudi's Sagrada Familia from

his La Pedrera.  This is the Passion

side, so he did not build this.

The pinnacles, or caps, of the towers at

Sagrada Familia.  My lightweight camera

has an incredible zoom (thanks, Pierre --

you made my traveling camera life so

much better, easier!)

Torre Agbar from the roof.

A view of the attic.  Spectacular.

While I think Gaudi's furniture designs are art. . .

they sure don't look comfortable to me!

After our visit, at around 7 pm, we walked the one block to the Hotel Majestic.  We had stayed there ten years ago as a family, and they have a wonderful rooftop bar and restaurant.  All we wanted was a drink, not dinner.  It's a pretty nice hotel, and we weren't exactly dressed to the nines (as you can see from the above photos).  

To our pleasant surprise, they seated us.  And it was perfect.  There was a nice breeze, views for miles, and good company.  We stayed much longer than we expected, enjoying the evening.  It was hard to leave.  

On the way back, we stopped for dinner.  Toothpick tapas at Sagardi again -- Don and Jennifer enjoyed it!  Another great day.