We Have Seen True Genius

Tuesday was Antoni Gaudi day for the Bolgers. Until we made the decision to come to Barcelona, I knew a LOT more about Curt Gowdy than Antoni Gaudi. After going to four Gaudi works, it is clear that Gaudi was far greater than Gowdy. One can read about Gaudi’s work, and even be impressed by pictures, but until you see it with your own eyes, you can’t believe it.

Gaudi is the brightest star among the Modernisme architects. It is nearly impossible to describe the genius of Gaudi’s work. We went first to Casa Batllo, a house Gaudi designed that just happened to be one block from our hotel. It was like stepping into Dr. Seuss on steriods, except that it was real and had been designed for a family. This magnificent mansion was the right place to begin our Gaudi day.

As part of the admission fee, we received the little audio players so we each had our own private tour. The audio player (you hold it up to your ear) was a great addition – it helped point out design features and provide context that we might never have seen. It also keeps the people moving along. It is simply the most striking house – from top to bottom – that I have ever seen.

(Unfortunately, given the cost, Chez Bolger will not be redone in a similar style. It would give the neighbors something to talk about, however.)

From there we headed north three blocks to La Pedrera, the apartment building he designed. After waiting in line for nearly 30 minutes, we entered. The rooftop is the most impressive part of the design. Built between 1905 and 1910, it must have seemed otherwordly at the time. The rooftop chimney vents are said to have been the inspiration for the design of the storm troopers in Star Wars.

The apartment we were able to tour – with furniture and art from the times – wasn’t nearly as impressive as Casa Batllo. However, the way the apartment spilled from one room to another was very interesting – and the design let in a significant amount of natural light.

From there we took the metro several stops north to near Parc Guell. For us, the two day pass that Metro offers is the perfect way to cover a lot of ground easily and relatively cheaply. Barcelona’s system is extensive and excellent. The only weird part is, when you transfer lines within stations, sometimes you have to walk outside a long way and check back in again. Even the London Tube stations have connecting tunnels underground.

Anyhow, as nice as the Metro is, the haul on foot to and from Parc Guell in the August heat was tiresome. The park is set on a hilltop, with dramatic views of Barcelona and the Med Sea. However, it was the hottest, most humid day of the trip. It felt like a normal July day in Alexandria, except we didn’t have more than one of those miserable type days this summer.

The weather in Greece and Turkey was warm, but between low humidity and sea breezes, we never felt uncomfortably hot. We had taken a number of the famous Bolger forced marches on this trip, but this was the hottest. In previous years, our trips with forced march sightseeing was done during Spring Break (since Julia is now on the high school crew team, we don’t have the ability to travel during spring break anymore). So, these were the hottest conditions we have faced on a trip. Even Costa Rica was more pleasant.

That said, Parc Guell was clearly worth the sweat. From the three crosses monument at the top, you could see all of the city laid out. Then, we walked through the trees (a part of the park that is underwhelming) to the central area – which includes Gaudi’s famous benches and stairs. The gatehouses alone are stunning to see. As one of the guidebooks note, "it’s a strange, enchanting place."

Maddy and I explored the area around his house, and saw the most amazing aqueduct while Carol and the other two girls hung out in the Doric Temple. It is truly a special place. Given the heat, Carol wasn’t quite as taken with it, but I saw it as an amazing mix of design and nature.I had presumed there would be restaurants dotting the neighborhoods around the park. I was wrong. It was now well past lunchtime, we were hot, sweaty, hungry, and thirsty. On the way back to a different Metro stop (closer to where we walked out of than where we came into), we stopped and got lunch. At least the place was not air conditioned, because that might have made things a little better. I think half of our bill consisted of drinks as we rehydrated.

We saved the most stunning for last. The Sagrada Familia. Gaudi’s great church, which although unfinished after more than 90 years after it was begun (there was 20 years of no work, during the time of the Spanish Civil War and thereafter). We entered via the Passion Facade, which I think is the most amazing side of a church building I’ve ever seen. Done in the modernist style, it gracefully tells the story of the Passion of Christ.

Inside, I got goose bumps from the brilliant, soaring design. The stained glass windows are the brightest I’ve ever seen, and the soaring buttresses are incredibly designed. The balconies are wavy and inspiring. It is Barcelona’s most visited, and most famous, location.

Unfortunately, we did not go up the open tower. One of the two towers normally open to the public is closed. They also no longer allow people to walk up (which apparently is quite the climb). The only option is to use the elevator. There was a 2+ hour wait for the elevator – so all in all, we decided to skip it.

Around the back, the Nativity facade is also incredibly and beautifully carved. Carol spent a lot of time there, pointing out scenes from the birth of Jesus, as well as the animals and other decorations (angels sounding trumpets, for instance).

In the end, the kids were a bit Gaudi’d out, although they did think his work was amazing. While the forms were similar, there were so many differences in the four Gaudi places we went that each clearly provided a new perspective and look.We took Metro back to the hotel (after a break for a snack and to rehydrate in the heat). I promptly fell asleep for a couple of hours.

We walked down to the Barri Gotic part of town and had dinner at a restaurant that opened in 1897, the Four Cats. The food was good even if the vibe was very touristy. After returning to the hotel and dropping the girls off, we walked a half block to a Vinoteca and shared a bottle of wine at a sidewalk table. A mellow end to an amazing day.