Tuesday, April 15, 2025

Usually UNESCO Means "You Must Go" But For Musee Saint-Remi It Means "Meh"

Regular readers of this blog know Carol and I are big fans of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  I'm even the person who coined the phrase now used around the world -- "UNESCO means you must go!"

(Editor: That phrase is NOT used around the world.  Writer: It should be.) 

Of the three UNESCO sites in Reims:

  • The Cathedral is certainly impressive.  
  • The Palais du Tau is closed for renovation.
  • The Musee Saint-Remi is one of the three least impressive UNESCO World Heritage sites we've ever been to.
Musee Saint-Remi is an archeology and art museum in the former Abbey of Saint Remi.  Founded in the 6th century, it has the relics of Saint Remigius (the Bishop of Reims who concerted Frankish king Clovis I to Christianity in 496).

(King Clovis sounds like the name of a band who has played the Grand Old Opry twice.)

Both the Abbey and the Basilica are UNESCO World Heritage Sites because "of their outstanding architecture and importance in the early French monarcy."

So I was expecting great things.  Oh, the Abbey and the Basilica are both interesting enough, but in MCEIUNESCOS (My Considerably Experienced In UNESCO Sites) opinion they are not as jaw-dropping as a UNESCO site should be. 

The existing basilica was dedicated by Pope Leo IX (his friends called him "Leo") in 1049, so it is older than the Norman conquest of England.  According to Wikipedia, "among the illustrious later abbots. . .may be mentioned" but I'm going to use the "may be mentioned" excuse and not mention them.

There is stained glass from the 12th century still, while a lot of valuable objects were looted during the French Revolutions.

Our favorite part of the museum is the 16th century tapestries donated by archbishop Robert de Lenoncourt.  Another is a Roman mosaic of gladiators, which, although it doesn't move or speak, was more exciting than the Gladiator 2 movie.

By the way, the route from the Cathedral to the Abbey, nearly a mile long, was nearly 100% torn up and under construction.  Not the pretty visit to a smallish city.

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