The Last Expedition: Giant Tortoises

Our luggage had to be outside our cabin by 6 am for pickup, and we departed the Islander for the last time at 6:30, landing on Santa Cruz Island (the second biggest in the Galapagos) after cruising on the Zodiac one last time through Itabaca Channel.

(Editor’s Note: Glen, thanks for mentioning Itabaca Channel, no doubt 95.3% of your readers know exactly where that is!  Blogger: This is for the one reader out of 200 who wants to look it up.)

We bused for about 45 minutes to the highlands on the one highway that crosses the island, arriving at Rancho el Manzanillo.  Going down the long dirt driveway, we spotted a couple of tortoises.

After around 7:30 am, we had breakfast in the Ranch’s outdoor covered pavilion.  It’s quite the lush, green setting for the final meal of the cruise.  After a tasty meal, we donned rubber boots and headed off to tramp for tortoise sightings.

I had high hopes of seeing one or two.  Well, as it turns out, I set my sights too low, far too low.  I didn’t count how many we saw, but it was at least 15, if not more.  And you know what Jeff Farrah?  Unlike eagles, tortoises move too slow, so we know weren’t seeing the same ones over and over as they moved around.

Rancho Manzillo used to be a working farm, but since it is a superhighway for tortoises, the farming bit struggled, as tortoises would either eat or trample their crops.  Eventually they gave in and converted it to a tortoise sanctuary where groups like ours pay to come, eat, and walk amongst the tortoises.  Pretty good move on their part I must say, and it seems to be going well.

Here’s some cool info about the Galapagos tortoises from Wikipedia:

“It is the largest living species of tortoise, with some modern Galápagos tortoises weighing up to 417 kg (919 lb). With lifespans in the wild of over 100 years, it is one of the longest-lived vertebrates. Captive Galapagos tortoises can live up to 177 years. For example, a captive individual, Harriet, lived for at least 175 years. Spanish explorers, who discovered the islands in the 16th century, named them after the Spanish galápago, meaning "tortoise".

Not quite sprinters, they hit top speeds of 0.2 mph, which means I am still fast than they are, despite my right ankle and left knee, so I’ve got that going for me.

We walked around the lush grassy area, past several lagoons with multiple tortoises, and other tortoises walking and eating the grasses.  If we got too close, they would withdraw their heads as far as they could into their shells (but not their legs, no room) and make a hissing sound.  Back off a bit, and their heads would come back out.  Some tortoises would let us get close without that reaction, while others didn’t wait for us to get close before reacting.  Since few of them were moving with regularity, it’s hard to say they would stop moving if we got close.

Many were content to hang out in the lagoons and lake.  The water was fairly green and foamy, but obviously clean enough for them.

After a bit of wandering as a group, Ixora let us wander on our own.  Usually I’m pretty positive, but I’m going to get a bit snippy here.  Carol and I walked back the zig-zaggy way we came, because we knew there were tons of tortoises (given that 2000 pounds equals one ton, and we certainly saw at least 4000 pounds of tortoises combined, if not more, “ton of tortoises” is NOT an exaggeration, for a change).

The British woman on the trip had been a bit bossy.  Okay, a lot bossy.  She saw us near her group and asked if we needed help, but in that snotty way that really means, “what the hell are you doing here?”  I replied in equally snotty fashion, “Oh, we’re fine.  Our guide is letting our group roam a bit on our own, because she trusts us.”  And, yes, I emphasized “trusts” and “us.”  She made a face and moved away.  It wasn’t quite as big as the battle of Yorktown, but it was an important American victory over the Brits nonetheless.

(Btw, I love Brits.  Some of my faithful readers are Brits.  Every country, including ours, has its glassholes as the saying goes, so this is about her not her countrymen.  The Yorktown analogy was just me going for the cheap laugh.  And I know at least one American who lives in Canada is chuckling over it.)

After we were done with our unsupervised time with these gentle giants, we went back to the buildings, took off our rubber boots, and got ready to bus to Itabaca Channel, ferry over to Baltra Island and bus to the airport.

While there was still more to come, our time in the Galapagos was essentially over.  Highly, highly recommend taking a trip to the Galapagos just to see the variety and fearlessness of the animals.  I think I like the sea birds best, but the sea lions, iguanas, fish, tortoises, and other animals are right up there with the sea birds.  

Rancho el Manzanillo: Riding The Giant Tortoises

No actual tortoises were ridden, it is, thankfully, no longer allowed.  Just going with the sensational headline to get your attention.

Gotta include the first tortoise

we saw (although we did see

some from the bus.)

Ready for his close-up.

Our group, and a tortoise.

My wife, and a tortoise.

Two of the five in this lagoon.

All lathered up, ready to shave.

Prehistoric look.

Neil.

Carol.

Tortoise.

Another group from our trip, including

Andre (all the way left) and Claudia

(all the way right).

Wonder what they are thinking?

(The tortoises or Carol, Nancy,

and Bruce?)

In the midst of an all-out sprint.

Bruce birding.

This is us.

Charles and Sharilynn

Bruce and Nancy

Ixora was our naturalist on this tour.

Here's looking at you kid.

This little guy was hanging 

by where we ate breakfast.

I know, you are surprised.  Only 24 photos of tortoises, when I have so many more!

Now This Is Jurassic Park (Or. . .Prince Phillip’s Steps)

Multiple times on the expeditions, people would exclaim, “This is Jurassic Park,” especially at the lava on Sullivan Bay.

But, when I reached the top of the Prince Phillip’s Steps and gazed over the prehistoric landscape filled with massive seabirds, I boldly proclaimed, “Now THIS is Jurassic Park.”  By the murmurs of agreement and assent from my fellow travelers (Editor’s Note: There you go again) it seemed they agreed with me.  It was a stunning panorama of terrain, flora, and bird fauna.

(Editor’s Note: It’s nice that you chose yourself as the arbiter of what is Jurassic Park.  Blogger: Hey, you had to be there, it is stunning.)

Let’s take a step back first (figuratively, as a literal step back means you plunge ninety steps to your death.).  Prince Phillip’s steps are named after the Duke of Edinburgh used them during a visit to the Galapagos in 1964, when he was sent on a world tour to get away from the press after he had an affair (how in the hell was an affair a good idea?).  It’s a steep 90 steps to climb 80 feet up the cliffs.  Little known fact: Prince Phillip actually visited his steps a second time, in 1981.

The first rock step is quite slick, but everyone kept their footing.  Once beyond the first couple of steps, the climb up wasn’t so bad, especially because the wooden steps also have handrails.  Arriving at the top, the view takes your breath away.  Many seabirds flock around right at the top, and there are more through the 1.2 mile out and back hike.  The hike itself is easy, yet breathtaking.

In the previous post I wrote about the Elusive Galapagos Short Eared Owl (Editor’s Note: “Elusive” is NOT in the name.  Blogger: Yeah, but it should be!) which was quite the highlight.  We saw boobies, frigates, and petrels, as well as gulls and doves as well.  

It felt a bit like we were hiking at the end of the earth, up on 80 foot cliffs with nothing in view but the ocean.  Right at the turnaround point of the hike were five or six Magnificent Frigate birds in various stages of puffery.  

(Editor’s Note: “Magnificent” is also NOT in the name!  Blogger: Gotcha there – “Magnificent” actually is in the name!)

Frigate birds are also known as kleptoparasites (which would be a great name for an indie rock band; ripping off a running Dave Barry line does not make ME a kleptoparasite, it’s a way of honoring his meme).  Anyhoo, they are kleptoparasites because they steal food, baby chicks, and nesting materials from other birds.

That led me to tell this line to others on the trip – “every time other birds see a frigate bird coming, they say, ‘oh, here comes another friggin’ bird!’”

(Editor’s Note: People actually laugh at that?  Blogger: Well, nervously, but yes, they laugh.  Otherwise I wouldn’t have told it to multiple people.  One rule of humor is to never keep puns to yourself, because you never know which ones will work until you try them out.)

There weren’t nearly as many birds as there were in the morning excursion at Darwin Bay beach, but it’s still very compelling hike.  It’s been nine days since we did the hike (did I mention I’m a bit behind on blogging?) and it is still stunning to me how close you can get to the birds.  

We climbed back down Prince Phillip’s steps as the sun was setting in the West (Editor’s Note: Good thing you clarified that the sun sets in the West, many people might not realize that.  Blogger: Okay, you’ve got a point there.) 

We’ve done and seen so many amazing things here in the Galapagos, but I would say Genovesa Island was the most spectacular to me.  

The Elusive Galapagos Short Eared Owl

One of the myriad of reasons to climb the Prince Phillip's Steps and take the trail along the top is the hope of spotting the hard to spot Galapagos Short Eared Owl.  We are all looking, but we were not all finding.

Suddenly we saw the group ahead of us clustered and pointing.  We knew then that they had spotted one.  Three kids were on the trip (of the 35 people), and one of them were sharp-eyed enough to see it.  Very impressive finding.  

A little bit on the Galapagos Short Eared Owl from the website animalcorner.org:

"The Short Eared Owl is a medium sized owl averaging 34 – 43 centimetres (13 to 17 inches) in length and weighing 206 – 475 grams (11 to 13 ounces). It has large eyes, big heads, short necks and broad wings. Its beak is short, strong, hooked and black. Its plumage is mottled tawny to brown with a barred tail and wings. The upper breast is significantly streaked."

Also of interest from galapagosconservation.org.uk:

"The Galapagos short-eared owl has developed a unique hunting behaviour on Genovesa island, at a colony of storm petrels. The petrels nest deep in tunnels in the lava rock, usually out of reach of the owls. However the owls have learnt to stalk nearby, watching the petrels as they enter and leave the tunnels. The owls then wait close by for the petrel to leave the tunnel and catch them unawares. Another technique they use is to hide in the entrance of the tunnel to grab a petrel as it flies in."

It was extremely hard to find even knowing it was there.  Any time I took my eye, or lens, off it, I had to use some tricks to find it -- first find the discolored ground, and then look further and to the left to find it.

And now to the photos:

The Birds On Top Of The World

These photos are from the Prince Phillip's Steps hike, which I wrote about in a post two above this one.

Because I included so many bird photos just a few posts ago, I kept the number down on this one:

Red Footed Boobies

These Nazca Boobies didn't spar long.

Everybody look left
Everybody look right
Everywhere you look I'm
Standing in the spotlight!

Mary and Nancy

Bruce and Nancy

Fur Seals of Genovesa Island

On our way to Prince Phillip's Steps, we swung by the base of the cliffs and spotted some  Galapagos fur seals (not seals, but actually sea lions).  They are pretty reclusive, so it was great to be able to see them.

They do their hunting (well, fishing I suppose) at night, so they rest during the day, preferring rocky, shaded areas.

The Chipmunks Plus Two

 

This became our regular lunch and dinner

table on the ship.  From left: Me, Neil, Mary,

Nancy, Bruce, Meena, Sanjiv, and Carol

Meal time was always fun with this group.

Awesome Snorkeling, Part Two

After our walk through the birds, we then were Zodiac'd to the cliffs near the entrance to the bay to snorkel.  

By way of explanation, Genovesa Island is north of the equator, one of the northernmost islands in the Galapagos.  The caldera is mostly under water, a stunning place called Darwin Bay.  At the furthest point into the bay is the coralline beach we landed at after breakfast.  The rest of the bay is surrounded by high cliffs.

The snorkeling was sublime.  Because the water was a bit darker, and I had struggled to get good photos the day before, I left the underwater camera in our cabin for this trip.  I kind of regretted not bringing it along, because there were many large colorful fish; I'm sure I could have gotten one or two good photos.

On the other hand, by not bringing it along, I focused on the fish instead of trying to get photos.  And the snorkeling was, once again, spectacular.  There were Galapagos fur seals along the rocks (fur seals are actually sea lions).  They are endangered, and are not as easy to find as sea lions, because they don't hang out on beaches, but in rocky areas and caves.

Anyhow, we snorkeled along the cliffs.  Besides the fur seals, there were no dramatic sightings of a shark, a ray, starfish, or sea turtles like the previous snorkel, but I actually thought the fish were more diverse and plentiful on this snorkel.

Just like the previous day, we spent so much time in the water that when I got out, my fingers were all pruney, more so than I've ever seen before.  Must be something in the water.

Genovesa, A Spectacular Island

Our last full day in the Galapagos opened with what turned out to be my favorite expedition, a simple, flat  walk along a beach below tall cliffs, along a trail to a lagoon.  Then we waded through the lagoon, to the lava rocks alongside the beach.

It wasn't long, but it was spectacular.  It was marvelous because of the birds.  So many seabirds.  A wet landing onto a coralline beach led to wonderment as birds flew, nested, and rested everywhere we looked.  

There were a couple of Blue Footed Boobies, but mostly there were Red Footed Boobies, Magnificent Frigate Birds puffed up with the males showing off their red mating skin all puffed up (see photos below), Nazca Boobies, swallow-tailed gulls, petrels, and others.

I loved all the birds, but there is something about a puffed-up Frigate Bird that is like nothing I've ever seen before.  It's amazing what males will do to attract a mate.

The cliffs of the caldera were teeming with birds.  The flats were teeming with birds.  The lava around the lagoon was teeming with birds.  It is otherwordly. 

The lagoon was separated from the Bay by large lava cliffs where the birds made their homes.  Birds were in the low trees and brush.

There were birds everywhere we looked.  There were some sea lions both on the beach and playing in a nearby lagoon.  I saw black crabs and a lava black iguana, but mostly birds.

(Editor's Note: So, it's not clear.  Were there birds?  Blogger: Just making sure people get it.)

I snapped a ton of photos, and many of them came out quite well.  It helps that the birds have no fear of predators, even humans, so you can get close.  My amazing camera helps too, as my lightweight Canon zooms from 21-1365, allowing for awesome close-ups without having to carry multiple heavy lens or change lens.  

Anyhow, I'm kind of at a loss for words to describe such a magical place, so I will let the photos tell the story.

My Three Favorite Bird Photos

I will never take better photos of birds than these three.  As with all photos on the blog, click on each to make the picture larger.

Juvenile. . .I believe this

is a Red Footed Boobie

Red Footed Boobie

Beyond serving as the inspiration for

Angry Birds, I can't identify this.

Any readers with any thoughts on it?

The Island Time Forgot

Some of these are among the best photos I've ever taken.  I'm not bragging -- any great photos are because of my subjects, not due to any skill I might have.

Anyhow, there's probably too many photos here, but can you blame me?

Morning sunrise

Part of the caldera that is Darwin Bay

Birds were the main attraction at

Darwin Bay, but there were

other creatures as well.

Red footed boobie

The Nazca Boobie is also called

The masked Boobie.

Cactus blossom.

Swallow-tailed gull

Red feet generally indicates a 

Red-footed Booby.  My science

chops are unreal.

Whale bones.  Never saw a whale on

this trip, but such is life. . .have seen

plenty of whales in Alaska, the Arctic,

and Antartica.  Maybe I can only see

them in places that start with "A."

(Editor: What about New Zealand? 

Blogger: Well, it's close to Australia!)

Classic Red Footed Booby

A pile of bird bones.  I wonder if this is a

collection that various people add to as

they find the bones?

Molting Boobie.

I'm not good at taking photos of birds in

flight, but I got enough of this puffed-up

frigate bird to include the picture.

A molting bird looks a bit like an

awkward teenager with acne.

The two birds were not interacting, but

I do like the wing spread while the other

seeks a mate.

Magnificent Frigate bird,

trying to attract a mate.

Working on a nest.

The lagoon is beautiful, and

fun to tramp through.

Lava heron.

Andre and his mom, Claudia.

A random blogger.

Look at those whiskers!

A Zodiac departs, with a sea lion

not at all interested.  Don't worry,

that wasn't my group. . .I didn't

get left behind.