Friday, February 17, 2023

The Heart Of Amman

The Citadel of Amman is on one of the original seven hills that made up the city.  It is replete with Roman ruins.  But proof of life goes back further than the Romans, much further.  

The Citadel museum has man-made objects from the Stone Age.  I will be lazy and let Wikipedia fill you in:

Evidence of inhabitance since the Neolithic period has been found and the hill was fortified during the Bronze Age (1800 BC). The hill became the capital of the Kingdom of Ammon sometime after 1200 BC. It later came under the sway of empires such as the Neo-Assyrian Empire (8th century BC), Neo-Babylonian Empire (6th century BC), the Ptolemies, the Seleucids (3rd century BCE), Romans (1st century BC), Byzantines (3rd century AD) and the Umayyads (7th century AD).  After the Umayyads, came a period of decline and for much of the time until 1878 as the former city became an abandoned pile of ruins only sporadically used by Bedouins and seasonal farmers. Despite this gap, the Citadel of Amman is considered to be among the world's oldest continuously inhabited places.

Archaeologists from many nations have been working the site since the 1920s.  The major structures are the Temple of Hercules, a Byzantine Church, and the Umayyad Palace, built in the first half of the 8th Century.

The Citadel affords impressive views of multiple hills of Amman, as well as a bird's eye view of the Roman Theatre below.

Midway through the visit, the sun came out for the first time while we were outdoors in our three days in Jordan and lit up the ruins and surrounding hills/buildings.  

As we were leaving, several of us noticed some chucklehead climbing up on part of the Temple of Hercules to goof around for photos on it.  Some people are morons.

Citadel selfie.


Another Amman hill.

The city started with seven hills
and has expanded since.

The Roman Theatre from the Citadel.

Carol and a column.

The temple of Hercules.

Inside the museum, this used
to give ancient kids the
heebie-jeebies.  Heck, I
have the heebie-jeebies
just looking at this photo. 


Saddest six word story ever written:
Baby shoes for sale.  Never worn.

From the Chalcolithic Age, which, as we
all know, ran from 4500 to 3300 BC.
Things really changed in 3299 BC.

From the pre-pottery age, this Neolithic
Statue is claims to be the world's
oldest worshipped statue.

Model and finished product.

Anthropoid coffin, with
facemask on wall.
Estimated Bronze Age,
1200 BC.

Carving of a snake on a coffin.  Can never
 have too much Ray Wylie Hubbard
on the blog: "Snake Farm, it just sounds
nasty, Snake Farm, it pretty much is."



Mordecai Three-fingered Brown.
Actually, believed to be from
a giant statue of Hercules.

Umayaad Palace.

Minaret across on an
Eastern hill of Amman.

A northerly view
from the Palace.

The inside of the Palace dome.

Cool water drain in the Palace floor.


A last, sun-kissed view of Amman.

Roman Around Amman

After the vegetable market, we wound our way through some more streets to the Roman Nymphaeum (fountain) in Amman.  Built in the 2nd Century AD, it's kind of in rough shape, or as Wikipedia gently calls it, "partially preserved."

To be fair, work is being done to restore it, and that takes money, time, and effort.  The pool was estimated to be 600 square meters, which totals nearly 6500 feet.  Whoa.

The Nyphaeum.

From there we went to Roman Theatre, which is in far better shape.  Also built in the 2nd Century AD, the theatre held as many as 6,000 spectators.  It's got a "microphone" that helped elevate the sound to the further reaches of the theatre.

It's at the foot of a hill opposite the Amman Citadel.  You'll see a picture I took in the Citadel post of the Theatre from above.  The Theatre is still used, including for a concert by an American rapper in 2019.  

Editor: You forgot to mention which rapper.  Writer: It's rap, ergo I don't care:
.

Here's photos from the walk to the Theatre and at the Theatre:

Public art.

Helps you know which way to go.

Amman is built on many hills.

A capital work of public art.

The theatre is right in the middle of downtown Amman, which makes sense, as cities are built on existing cities.
As you can tell from the selfie,
the weather was still cold.

Another theatre selfie.

The theatre.

The group -- (from left:) Neil, Mary,
Osama, Mo, Flo Tom, and Carol.



Neil vowed to stay until
the next rap concert.
He's still there, waiting,
but at least he has a
great seat for it.

The Streets Of Amman

After lunch, Osama guided us around some of the interesting streets of Amman, including through the vegetable market (where more than veggies are sold).

Even though our focus on this trip has been seeing the antiquities of Egypt, and then Petra in Jordan, walking around the streets, having Osama gives us his perspective on the Arab Street was quite interesting.  At 24 people, our group was too large to do this in Cairo (not to mention the drivers are crazier in Cairo and calmer in Amman), but seven people in Amman was a great size.

Random street scene.

Another random street scene.

It's always fun to visit spice stores.

The shop also sold many forms of licorice.

I'm not sure what kind
of meat he's carving.

The top bookstore in Jordan is a
vendor's stand.  Apparently
he's got a great combination
of location and product.

Kunafa.  It's a very popular dessert/street food.
Made of 13 different ingredients, Osama
bought us some to eat after lunch.
It is quite tasty.  He shared the recipe
with us, if anyone wants it.

Orange you glad this is
how they sell oranges?
The gold district is a big deal in Amman.

Minaret (left)
Crazy comms tower (right)

The start of the vegetable market.







Now that's some meat.

I love olives.


Nuts, nuts, nuts!

Restocking the lemon shelf.


Osama tries to the remember the
English word for that weird
vegetable. Anyone know what it is?

Fun trick -- plunge your hand into
that basket, and then rub your eyes!

Anyone else hungry for lamb?