A Very Moving Place, and a Stunning View

We then headed to Omaha Beach, including a stop for lunch.  First, we visited a German big gun site overlooking one of the five draws out of the beach.  An American ship scored a direct hit, killing all three Germans -- the damaged gun is still there in its emplacement.  Francis also showed us a famous picture of the Americans climbing the stairs above it on their way inland. 

We stopped for lunch at a hotel restaurant Francis prefers right at the north end of Omaha Beach -- Carol and I had the Mussels Mariner.  These are the best mussels we've ever eaten -- done with a wine sauce, shallots, and parsley, they are much tastier than American mussels.

He showed us around Omaha Beach -- at the south end, we walked onto the beach, where he drew a detailed map of the landing zones and the battle on the sand -- which made it easy to remember.  The tide was retreating rapidly, and we had a much better idea of the size of the beach at low tide.  Looking up at the bluffs where the Germans had a free fire zone underscored how daunting it must have been. 

(We were also entertained by the sight of one of the boat-pulling tractors having fallen partway off the concrete pathway -- it was there dangling as the workers tried to figure out how to extract it.  We left before they solved their problem, but I believe it was going to involve a tow from another tractor!)

We then went to the American cemetery -- the second most visited cemetery in the world (after Arlington).  .

The cemetery is stunningly laid out in the shape of a cross, and the headstones are either in the shape of a cross or the Star of David.  They are lined up perfectly in every direction, so the effect is quite beautiful.  The grass is immaculate, and the cool breezes and sunny sky added to the beauty of the day. 

Francis led us from grave to grave, telling stories of the people buried there -- some Medal of Honor winners, some civilians, some brothers or cousins buried next to each other, and even a father and son.  The Roosevelt Jr. gravesite is interesting, and the only roped off section -- it's the most popular stop, so they are protecting the grass from being trampled.

We then went into the museum there, which was a moving experience.  Carol and I had to both dab at the tears in our eyes after the short movie.  It struck me the last time I teared up at a museum was at Yad Vashem, the Israeli museum of the Holocaust.  Both museums a result of Hitler and the Nazis.  It really was not that long ago -- it makes you wonder if such evil could ever happen again, and, unfortunately, as the Taliban has shown us, the answer is yes.

At the end of the day, Francis took us to a secret spot at the North end of the beach (although now, looking at the map, I might be confused -- it is likely the east end of the beach, since the coast there is east to west.  We drove down a country lane with tight turns, and ended up parking as one of three cars there.  We were the only tourists -- the other cars belonged to French families there using the path to the beach.  It was the fifth draw -- too narrow for vehicles to get up from the beach, but it was also the first one opened by the Americans.

We were up on a bluff with a commanding view of the entire five miles of Omaha Beach.  The view alone -- and being alone -- made the entire day worthwhile.  But, of course, it was amazing even without this. There were German trenches and gun emplacements.  Francis took us into one of the trenches and through the emplacement.  It was an amazing end to a moving and interesting day. 

Looking down on the beachgoers (the water had to be cold, but the air temp was probably 75 and even felt warmer in the sun), part of me questioned the sacrilege of using a sacred beach, but then I told myself that this is right because those men had given their full measure to liberate France (and all of Europe) so that people could live freely, rather than under the boot heel of the Nazis.