Saturday, April 12, 2014

Pictures from the Winelands

Rainbow from our hotel room balcony.

Muratie is an old-school winefarm.

I've met their ancestors from a few years ago.

Selwyn guiding, in the winery.

Sorting.

Separating the leaves.

Aerating and cooling during fermentation.

Old school.

The view from the Graff winery.

Even I could frame this shot.

The view from Graff's toward Thelema winery.

Art for art's sake.  Or for
the sake of a tax write-off.

We did get to see some leopards.


Cheetahs sometimes do prosper!

Thursday, April 10, 2014

No Spotted Leopards Spotted

The third and final day of the safari trip was almost anti-climatic.  But, that’s the crapshoot nature of, uh, nature.  It is not always where you want it to be, and it sure does not always act as you hope it does.

The birds crying in alarm from the area across from the lodge brought hope to the rangers that a leopard or lion was in that area.  So we saddled up and all four vehicles fanned out in that direction.  We could find the brainless birds because they nervously cried out (which should also give away their position, I would think?).  But, despite cris-crossing the bush, we never saw a leopard or lion.

Two of the rangers even got out on foot to try and “spot” (sorry, I couldn’t resist) the hoped-for leopard or the settle-for lion, but to no avail.  We drove around, with not much to see.  Finally, Justin decided to take us far away from there in hopes of spotting other animals.  That didn’t work well, until we got word that some lions had been spotted far away.

On our way to the lions, we stopped for a bit to watch an elephant who was hanging out, eating by himself.  There were some other elephants theoretically nearby, but we all voted to see the lions rather than find the elephants.

I had assumed, given the sheer number of birds we saw on the previous morning drive, that we would see a lot this morning drive as well, but we did not see nearly as many.  There were still a goodly variety, but I was surprised by the difference in just one morning!

Just before getting to the lions, we came upon two tiny gazelles that I believe (but am not certain) were Steenboks, based on a tip from Parent Program parent Kyra Bannister, who was in our vehicle (or, I suppose, we were in hers) and we really enjoyed going on safari with her and her daughter, Brina.

(As mentioned in a previous post, all of the folks in the vehicle were great to be – although how could it be otherwise.  We were in South Africa, with our kids – scratch that, young adult offspring – on safari.  You’d have to be in a pretty bad place right then to not enjoy the heck out of it.)

We came upon the eight lions.  (I did ask Justin if the ranger who finds them gets to take a lot of pride in doing so. Not surprisingly, the entire vehicle groaned – as did the people in it!).  They were resting, this time sated by what had clearly been a big kill and feast since we last saw these same lionesses.  They had put on weight, although there were no male lions around to reassure them that nobody would notice the extra weight and that they still look great in that outfit.

The most remarkable part was, not far away, several zebra, wildebeests and multiple impalas were dining away.  They knew the lions were there, and the lions knew they were there, but since the lions were full, and there was no element of surprise, there were no Discovery Channel moments.  It was like a DMZ in the veld.

After a while, we headed back toward the lodge – there was breakfast, checkout, hangout, and fly out to come.  On the way back, we stopped for four dwarf mongoose who were playing in the road.  Dan, sitting behind us with his daughter Claire, mused aloud – “Dwarfs.”  So, I had to get one last quip in – so I slowly noted, “hmmm, I would have thought there would be seven.”  I think people didn’t know whether to laugh or cry, so I’m pretty sure they did both!

After breakfast and checkout, we had some time to kill before going to airport, so I downloaded photos, and stumbled upon the lucky video I took of the lioness playfully rubbing heads with two others, and then half wrestling, half stretching, play with one of them.  It’s posted a little further down – so take a look in full screen (we had to compress it to get it on the blog, so the quality is good, but not as great as the original – still fun to view though).

After the hour flight to Jo-burg (when you fly through a city four times in ten days, you can call it by its nickname!), we flew back to Cape Town (nickname: The Mother City – not very catchy!).  The hotel check-in  process at the Radisson Blu was relatively easy for such a large group, so that was painless.  Unfortunately, the room we went into was half the size of the room we had the first four nights in Cape Town, so that was a bummer.  But, at least the room had great views to Robben Island and to the south.

In fact, our second to last morning there we had a great view of a double rainbow over the Atlantic to the South.  So we had that going for us.

(If you are looking for a hotel in Cape Town, I would highly recommend the Radisson Blu – a great setting not too far from the V&A Waterfront, and an easy cab ride to City Centre.  If you want to walk everywhere, however, it’s not the place to be – it’s a tad far from City Centre. One highlight was having breakfast al fresco hard by the ocean.)

Julia's Last Day In Cape Town

Dassies are angry dudes, even at the top
of some place as beautiful as Table Mtn.

Their closest living relatives are
the elephants.  I kid you not.

The foggy views still allowed for beautiful views.
Does it remind anyone of Ireland?

Turn around, yell, and get a good echo.

Enshrouded in fog.

Every so often views would appear.

Lion's Head

Robben Island from Signal Hill

The 12 Apostles

On Signal Hill

The MV Explorer from Signal Hill

The low yellow structure is the Castle
of Good Hope from Signal Hill

Cape Town

A clearer view of the 12 Apostles 

Luvuyo Mandela, Nelson's great grandson, 
gives a hopeful talk at the farewell reception
on board the MV Explorer.

A farewell to Julia

Dinner and a Show

The night we got back to Cape Town from the safari, there was a full parents and students dinner at Marco’s in City Centre (I always want to pronounce it “Cen-truh” for fun, but not everyone gets my humour.)

Marco’s is the first restaurant in Cape Town owned by a black (man, in this case.)  You get one hint as to his name.  We sat at long tables, and I thought the service was quick and the food was good.  Many of us had the ostrich fillet, which seemed a better option than the Senegalese Chicken (word from a reliable source on the African street is that Senegal is NOT famous for its food)

We all received two drink coupons.  Julia and I wisely chose the beer, while Carol went for the wine.  She DID manage to find the one bad wine in South Africa (don’t ask what kind – they poured it and brought it sans bottle).  Helpful tourist hint: when there is no choice of wine, and its built into the price, go with the beer.

There were two highlights to the evening.  The first was the four piece black band, soon accompanied by two attractive black female singers.  The band played a variety of African music and. . .wait for it. . .Elvis.  Yes, we realized we were listening to “I can’t help falling in love with you.”  (My brother Rick’s wedding song – yes Sandy was there too, but I gotta think that pick was his.)  Great song, but a little unexpected.  They did play some other American pop hits too, but mostly the equivalent of African soft rock (think 10CC’s “The Things We Do For Love” – whoops, sorry, my bad you have that song stuck in your head now. Hehehe.)

Like walking in the rain and the snow when there’s no place to go and you’re feelin’ like a part of you is dying.

No, they did not do that song – that’s the example to both give you a sense of the soft pop nature of the music, AND to get it stuck in your head!

Carol had an interesting observation – the sound is, logically, related to a Carribean calypso.  You could certainly hear the similarities to what clearly is a style brought to the New World by slaves, later financially enriching both Harry Belafonte and Jimmy Buffet.    

The other highlight was that Nelson Mandela’s great grandson, Luvuyo, joined the group for dinner.  Carol and I peg him for around 28 years old.  He gave brief remarks on the occasion of his birthday.  He was certainly charismatic, handsome, and you could see his great grandfather’s face in him.  If memory serves, Luvuyo is descended from a daughter in the first of Mandela’s three wives.

The best part came when the women singers got him to dance and then the band had him play their instrument.  A good measure of a person is how well they handle being put on the spot.  He found humour in the situation.  He clearly did not want to be on stage, but he took the risk and received the reward of an ovation.

His involvement with the SAS programme (sorry, South African English spellings in this post appear to be required) came because he is friends with Melissa Bingler, who ran the Parents Trip.

His last two years of high school, he was sent to boarding school in Charlottesville to play basketball.  While there, he got his act together as a student.  Melissa was in charge of student housing at the time, and she has remained in touch with probably eighty percent (by her count) of the students who passed through in her twenty years.

The name of the boarding school is St. Anne’s In the Belfry, which goes by the unfortunate acronym of STAB.  I would think a rebranding campaign is in order, but that’s just me!

After that, others in the group – and other groups, including two young girls – tried their hand at playing the instrument and/or dancing.  It was all in good fun, especially since I didn’t have to get up and try either of the two.  That would have been a catastrophic failure.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

In the Village, the Peaceful Village, the Lion(s) Sleep Tonight


By the way

We were told the unemployment rate in South Africa is 35%.  The February data is actually 24.2%.  That's still amazingly grim.  It's a beautiful country, but I worry about how it can hold together.  It's also possibly closer to 35% -- not sure how they count it.

Cape Town appears to be booming, but even there unemployment is 17% (for the province).

Sabi Sabi -- Final Morning Drive

A waterbok -- the hairiest of the boks.

Another elephant happy after
seeing good poll numbers


Vehicle companion Kyra Bannister makes the
case that these are Steenboks.  Tiny antelope
with large ears. The better to hear lions with.

This zebra, and other animals, were
not far at all from the pride of lions.

Ah, the sleep of the well-fed.

Taking the morning off.

A rare sign of movement.

Petro, our tracker.

A good look at our room from the outside. 

A prime example of the
wild African stump.

Sabi Sabi Evening Drive -- Day Two

I know there are a lot of posts with photos in a row here, and not as many descriptive posts.  That's the result of the computer troubles, as I got far behind on posting photos.

So, here's more photos!

Warthogs may look ugly, but they taste worse.

Interestingly, the water monitor is not listed by
Wikipedia as being in Africa.  This one
would have to argue with that entry.

An afternoon drive thru the bush veld.  Justin
has the wheel, while Petro is in the scout chair.

My seat row companions.

Dwarf mongoose.  Shouldn't there be seven of them?

Cape buffalo -- and we bagged 80% of the Big Five

They spent most of their time eating.

Yes, he was really that close.



Sunset over the bush.



The gang from vehicle E2

La Colombe

Considered one of the top two restaurants in Cape Town (we couldn't get into the other -- it's booked a month in advance), some people think La Colombe is a bit long in the tooth.  We enjoyed it immensely.

We got there early -- there was not much rush hour traffic out to the outer burbs.  So, they led us into a big old room with a fireplace so we could enjoy a glass of wine while they finished setting up the restaurant for the night.  Just as we saw at Carne, 7 pm is the earliest dinner time -- and we were there at 6:15.  We took our glass of wine and strolled through the gardens, past the cricket pitch, and over to the vineyards.  There were sweeping views of the mountains surrounding Constantia.

The service was great, the menu was chalked onto a large board that the waitress brought over and set on a stand.  We enjoyed a bottle of Shiraz and enjoyed the lamb.  (We did not eat enough seafood, but neither the fish nor the lobster I had early in the visit impressed me, so. . .).  The restaurant gradually filled up.  We were seated in a beautiful glassed in room by the garden.  It was a very nice evening out.

We got back into the car, and the driver remarked that Julia and the ship would have left a bit over an hour ago.  Carol and I looked at each other and laughed -- we had forgotten that (we DO love you Julia, we were thinking of other things, I swear!).  It was a nice end to a great last day with our globe-trotting daughter.

Monday, April 7, 2014

Sabi Sabi Bush Walk -- Day Two

No animal messes with these dudes.

25 years ago, this photo would have been grim.

Single file makes it easier for the 
animals to pick us off one by one.

All that is left of the lion's leopard turtle appetizer.

Bush or veld?

Either name works.

Back at the Earth Lodge