Saturday, February 4, 2017

Shwedagon Pagoda Pics -- Part 1

The computer has crashed a couple of times while trying to download the Shwedagon Pagoda pics -- so here they are in three parts.



The big stupa -- or as it's more 
formally known, 
The Big Stupa

Colorful floor pattern.


C-P3O still manages to find work even when
not filming another Star Wars movie.





We learned that the Vegas lights
signifies an enlightened Buddha.

A Great Day, Despite Our Blogging Hero Throwing An Interception at the Goal Line in the Super Bowl Like Russell Wilson

After visiting Sagarmyay Village, we headed through Mandalay to our river cruise on the majestic Irrawaddy River, through the aptly named Irrawaddy Valley.

Mandalay is Myanmar’s second largest city, with two million people.  The Mandalay name is evocative, from playing a key role as the former royal city, to being the economic and cultural center for upper Myanmar.  The Japanese destroyed 60% of the houses and killed 2,000 citizens with its bombing raids, and then took the city.  The Brits bombed back, destroying the royal palace.  Mandalay was the site of George Orwell’s first book (he was stationed here), a famed song by Frank Sinatra.

We were pretty underwhelmed by our drive through Mandalay, although to be fair, we didn’t stop or even swing by any of the various sites.  It was plenty of fun, however, watching the numerous near collisions between motorbikes, trucks, and buses, including ours.  Somehow, with all this chaos on the roads, I’ve yet to see an accident (well, I’ve seen accidents after they happened, but not in person).

We got to the river and headed down to our boat, the Ananda Sanctuary.  Consisting of just 21 suites, the river cruise boat is luxurious.  As I write this on the aft deck, we are cruising pagodas, villages, sandbanks, fishing boats, barges, and pretty (yet flat) landscape.  We are definitely cruising in style).  I feel a bit like Steve Goodman, riding on the City of New Orleans.

Anyhow, after being shown to our cabins (with bags already delivered!), we had a really good buffet lunch, dining with our fellow Inspirato-eans (Inspiratoites?).  The ship cruised down river to Sagaing, a town famous for the Ponnyashain pagoda (and by “famous,” I had never heard of it before).  After hiking up the riverbank, we hopped in a bus and headed to the xxxxx monastery.

We got there after school let out, so there were some orphan boys (no homes to go, so they live at the monastery) roughhousing in the dusty yard (yard implies grass, and there was none).  Some were wrestling, others were fighting in a little tree.  Soccer was being played with a deflated ball.  The cutest of all, however, was a boy wearing a makeshift cape.  He kept climbing up onto a ground floor railing, and jumping splat into the dirt.  Runner up for cuteness was the boy who kept doing handstand flips, except he would land flop on his back!  Then he would pop right up and do it again.

We then headed up hill to the Ponnyshain Pagoda (bare feet alert!).  High on a hill, the pagoda had stunning views all around – of other pagodas, the Irrawaddy River, a beautiful bridge, rice fields, towns, and the general views into the distance sort of thing that you get with altitude.  The pagoda itself is quite pretty, but, because of my error with the photo card, I didn’t get any pictures!  (More on – or more appropriately – moron that later).

The next stop was at a textile shop where they were making silk wedding dresses, scarves.  It’s amazing to watch these workers with their craft, working on machines that looked 100 years old.  People have mad skills here on making things of beauty – and I doubly appreciate it because I have no ability in those types of fields.  The pay is good, with the best craftspeople making $50 per day.  That may not sound like much money, but it beats working on the farm – more money for “easier” work.

And that’s where I discovered my mistake.  Each early morning I take the memory card out of the camera, and download the photos so I start each day with a fresh, clean memory card.  For some reason, I left the card in the reader.  At two points in the packing up process, I remember seeing the card in the reader and saying – I have to put that back in the camera.  But I didn’t.  So, no photos of the village, second monastery, the beautiful Ponnyashain Pagoda, or the silk shop.  For a while I was scared that somehow I had lost the card – especially when we got back to the bus and it wasn’t on my seat (I was hoping it fell out by accident and I absentmindedly closed it without realizing it).  Nope, I’m a moron and missed out on lots of great photos.  Oh well.  Carol took some with her iPhone, so she will forward to me when we have better internet.
 

Three of My Favorite Pictures from Shwedagon Pagoda

The first two pictures were taken within moments of each other, while the bottom picture was taken at a different location within the Pagoda grounds, and about 25 minutes later than the first two.




Dinner and a Show

We headed off to La Planteur, the top rated restaurant in Myanmar.  It’s a beautiful setting on a lake.  With the temperatures cooling off as the sun set, it was quite comfortable for dining al fresco (Al Fresco is my second-favorite Al, just behind Al Peterson).

We first sat on outdoor couches with champagne while an accopella group of six singers in the mid-20s came and sang to us (another nice touch arranged by Inspirato and Ye Ye).  The group consisted of three men and three women, and they were quite good.  They started with “Stand By Me,” which everyone knows was written by Ben E. King.  Named "the Hangovers" they've sung at Yale and other American locales.

I was quite tired and rested my eyes at times.  I did not mean to be rude, and it was not a reflection on their singing – I was just tired.  I don’t think I actually fell asleep.

I did rally when we moved to our table for dinner.  The food was fabulous – almost all of us had the lamb, and I ordered a quality 2010 Bordeaux at a fair price point.  (Note to readers – if there is a fair priced 2010 Bordeaux on the wine list, you can’t go wrong.  I will leave the definition of “fair priced” to your own wallets, but this was not overly expensive).

 
the Hangovers

Colorful Belmond Governor's Residence



Reflections of Burmese umbrellas
and trees in the hotel pool.




These umbrellas are used as
decoration all over Myanmar



Night picture


The Town Drunk on the Road to Mandalay

Thursday morning we flew to the 10 year old Mandalay International Airport.  Like Dulles or Denver International, it was built pretty far from the city – an hour to be exact.  Unlike IAD or DIA however, Mandalay International has not attracted many flights or office buildings between the airport and the city.  Alas, investment is not flooding in yet.

We hopped on a small bus, and headed to the small village of Sagarmyay (pronounced as – well, heck, I have no idea).  We got off in the village, and walked through.  Despite being harangued by the town drunk, the village was quite interesting.  It’s a one lane dirt road, although they were in the process of paving it, using hand crushed rocks and tar heated and spread by hand.  This used to be the main road from Mandalay to the capital, until a new superhighway was built.  (I don’t know if it is actually super – maybe just pretty good).

The village was full of stray dogs, and the shops and houses were right next to the street.  It had a beautiful new brick pagoda, a small, run-down gold pagoda that looked on the brink of falling apart, and some other Buddhist shrines.

We walked down the street, going from house to shop.  We watched a woman make a traditional breakfast of Mohinga that she sells for 1000 khat ($1.31-$1.35 depending on the exchange rate).  Then we watched a man make Betel, which is basically the chewing tobacco of Myanmar – it has a mix of Betelnut pieces, the Betelnut leaf, a paste made with lime, herbs like cloves or cinnamon, and sometimes tobacco.  It is folded over in the leaf, placed in the mouth, and slowly sucked on.  As it dissolves, it becomes a soft mush, and they spit out this red mush juice that looks a bit like blood.  Imagine a tobacco chewer without a bottle to spit his Skoal juice into, instead spitting onto the street – even opening a car door to so – and that’s pretty much what it’s like.

We also stopped at a convenience store, with packets of powdered milk, detergent, cereal, and other items hanging in the store.

The most fascinating part, however, was watching the vehicular traffic zoom at varying speeds up and down the dirt road.  Some were old trucks hauling everything from firewood to hay.  The hay truck was small, but, with the way the hay was piled high up top and on the side, it looked like a truck with an 1970s afro.  There were oxen pulling carts, crapping on the road when they weren’t whizzing.  And, of course, there were motorscooters with one, two, or even three people (the third was usually a baby being held by the passenger).  Some wore helmets, others did not.  Crossing the street was an adventure, as usually no one was driving/ox carting/scootering until we needed to cross the street, and suddenly it was a flood.

The homes were a bit ramshackle, with many openings.  I’m not sure how they deal with the invariable dusk rise of the mosquitos.

It was a neat experience to visit a small town and have Ye Ye explain what is going on at each location.  We really enjoyed it.  Even the town drunk harassing us was amusing – he was louder than Otis in Mayberry.


Photos from the Tipitaka Mahagandayone Monastery

The upper part of the monastery gate


Stray dog in the monastery

Our food servers

The bowls of rice

First contact

A flock of monks (a herd of monks)?


Small bowl of rice into bigger bowl.


A novice monk at the end of the line.

The Dining Hall

The food is better than the old Marriot (Mary-rot)
food service at American University in the 1980s!

I don't scream, you don't scream,
we all don't scream for ice cream
(vow of silence, you know!) 

Novice monks

No utensils needed for this monk -- his 
hands/fingers were sufficient for eating.

The stray dog strut

Our lunch mirrored their lunch.  Most of us
enjoyed most of the food.

Ye Ye tells us what we are eating. 
I promptly forget what is what.

The head monk got his position by surprise
wins in the Electoral College. Don't trust
the polls -- they were rigged!

Staffers from Team Ye Ye

The novices

The water ceremony: part of the blessing from the monk.
As you slowly poured the water into the cup, the
cup signified the monastery and the water represented
our donation/good will to the monastery.

Monk dorms with drying laundry.

Our heroes at the gate
of the monastery.

Myanmar Riffs -- Volume 2

Known as The Golden Land, Myanmar could also be called “TLoTSADBIISH&H” – or, if it is easier to pronounce, “The Land of Two Showers A Day Because It Is So Hot & Humid.”

I have not gone barefoot as much as I have in Myanmar during daylight hours since I was a kid.  Being barefoot is required in the pagodas and in monastery buildings.  Even with my bad foot/ankle (that’s the right one – the bad knee is on the left leg, so at least I’m two for two!)  But, even walking around the outside parts of the temple barefoot is quite comfortable.  I might start going barefoot in client meetings (Ha! Just kidding!)

Thankfully, we are always handed wet wipes to clean our feet afterwards.  If the key word in the Graduate was “plastics,” the hot money maker of the future in Myanmar has to be “wet wipes.”

These riffs are supposed to be random observations on the country, but I am surprised how poorly I’m sleeping.  This, the third night here in Myanmar and fourth night in Southeast Asia (one night in Bangkok – hey, that could be a lyric for a catchy pop song), I woke up at 3:19, tossed and turned, and finally gave up and got up to start blogging around 4:15.  I had high hopes last night that I would sleep till at least 5am or so.

At one point on our first day, we drove through a street food market, and that was neat to see.  Think of it as a very risky (for Western stomachs) food truckapalooza.  There are also street food stands throughout the city, so they are not just gathered in one place.

Shortly before coming here, we met a Vietnamese woman in Alexandria who is married to a man from Myanmar.  While she couldn’t really fathom why we would want to travel to Myanmar, she did tell both of us in separate conversations that the street food is really good and to skip eating in restaurants.  Our guides have given us the exact 180 degree opposite perspective in strongly worded advice.  We have followed their advice.  So far, not sick.

I had no idea there were so many pagodas in Myanmar.  Every small town has more than one, and the hillsides off the River Irrawaddy are dotted with pagodas.  There’s literally gold in them thair hills!

The number of stray dogs in Myanmar is incredible.  They look like they get plenty of food, and they are quite cute (well, some aren’t), but they have no owners – it’s like they belong to the village, town, or city that they are in.  They do not bother people, but we were also warned not to try to pet them, get too close (although they pretty much just move away), and to let sleeping dogs lie (hey, that’s kind of catchy!).  It’s a dog’s life.

A Random Walk Down Pansodan Street

Peacocks at the hotel

The Independence Monument

A random pagoda in center city Yangon.
It has storefront all around it.

A colonial building near Pansodan Street

You say toe-may-toe, I say toe-mah-toe

Typical Yangon apartment

The blue switch is a doorbell,
whilst the bag is for conveying
newspapers and notes upstairs.

Street food.  Not for American stomachs.

A bit of meat.