Friday, September 22, 2023

The First Morning Drive

The way safari works is that you do a morning and an evening game drive.  A lot of safari camps also offer a safari walk as well as a night game drive.  Sirikoi doesn't offer a night game drive, which is fine, but we definitely wanted to do the safari walk, which will be the topic of the next blog post.

(Editor: Interesting strategy.  Writer: What?  Editor: Wasting your lede for this post on the next post!  Writer got a point, but I'm using this portion to give background info for anyone who is considering a safari.)

The morning drives typically start between 6 to 6:30 am, returning at breakfast (9 am), unless you are having breakfast out on the savanna, in which case you are out until lunch.  Then you do your late afternoon drive around 4:30-5 pm, although if the sun sets later, I suppose you'd start later.

Arrival day is too late for a morning drive, but you do get an afternoon drive.  After lunch you have free time to read, blog, catch up on work, take a swim if there is a pool, get a massage if there is a spa, of other activities.

So, our first full day at Sirikoi Lodge, we got up early to get ready for the morning drive.  The Lodge delivered coffee, tea, and biscuits to the cottage around 5:45, as we were starting at 6:30. 

Our first morning drive also included our walking safari for the three days, so this post will feature photos from the early part of the drive, while the next will have photos from the walk.

 The main predators of Common Zebras are
lions and hyenas.  Zebras do have a vicious
kick that can break a jaw or kill.  We 
have seen several zebras with nasty
scars on their backsides, but they
are still alive because of their kick.

I'm ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille

Readers love pictures of baby animals.
Yes, even baby rhinos.  How can
you resist that?

When an elephant tells a bad joke, the
other elephants say, "tusk, tusk" instead
of "tsk, tsk."

Every picture of an African
landscape that features a lone
tree is iconic, such as 
this one.

A male impala.  They can run fast, and
their horns allow them to be furious.
Vin Diesel should cast this guy in his next
Fast & Furious movie, which I believe
will be Fast & Furious 314.

An African landscape photo that features
a lone tree AND an elephant is not
just iconic, it is super-iconic. 
(Editor: Still making up words I see.)

Older bulls leave the herd to live in small
bachelor groups known as "dagga boys."
I know it sounds like a Jamaican reggae
band, but "dagga" refers to the coat of
mud older bulls use to keep biting
flies away.

Just another iconic photo.

A tower of giraffes.  (Yes, that's one word
for a group of giraffes.  It's perfect!)

Cheetahs Never Prosper

(Editor: I thought you were going to use lyrics from Toto's "Africa" as your blog post headlines.  Writer:  I changed my mind.  I may use a few lines from the hit song "Africa" on future posts, but I didn't want to limit my artistic freedom, or something like that.  But hey, this title is from the Lion King at least!)

Before this trip, I reconciled myself to the fact there might be three animals which I really wanted to see, but I might not see.  I had not seen any of these three in 2014 when we went to South Africa.  In no particular order,  I was resigned to not seeing these elusive animals -- male lions, leopards, and cheetahs.

So when word came over our guide's phone that a cheetah had been spotted (pun intended) coming down a nearby large hill (or small mountain -- not sure which it is; I'm fine with either sobriquet), I assumed it would be gone before we got there.  

(By the way, the cell service is so good the guides no longer need those annoying radios to communicate; they text or call.  Meanwhile in Alexandria, I still have calls drop at home.  One is a nature conservancy in Kenya, the other is a suburb less than 14 miles from the freakin' U.S. Capitol!)

The Lewa Conservancy has a rule that only three safari cars can gather at an animal sighting, so we had to wait a bit for some Land Rovers to clear out.  The guides are generally good at making sure they don't stay too long whilst people are waiting, so eventually we got our turn.    It was halfway down the hill, slowly picking its way down.

I'm almost at a loss for words how much joy seeing it brought me.  The fastest land animal in the world (can hit 70 mph, which my Ford Tempo in 1986 couldn't do), the coloring is simply spectacular and beautiful all at once.

We tracked it down the rest of the hill along with two other vehicles.  I'm thrilled I got some great photos.  By the time it reached the bottom of the hill near the watering hole ("The Watering Hole" would make a great name for an African indie rock band, or a bar), other Land Rovers had come along, so we left.

But we left gratified and grateful.  If you had told 17 year-old me in Sparta, New Jersey that I'd see a real, free, uncaged cheetah not in a zoo but in Kenya, I would have taken that deal right then and there.  And I didn't even have to sell my soul to the devil. 

Even though I wanted to include every picture I took of the cheetah that late afternoon, I didn't.  But here are the best ones, along with a bonus sunset photo.


Probably the best of the pics.

Takes a short break to survey his dukedom.
(Hey, the King of Beasts doesn't grant the
cheetah a kingdom!).
One of the three Big Cats of Africa, the
cheetah actually doesn't prosper.  
Upwards of 50% or more cheetah
 cubs do not survive the first three
months of their lives.  It's a jungle
savanna out there. 

As usual I'm several days behind on the blog.
I've been in Africa for four sunsets.  None
have been mind-blowingly spectacular,
but they are all quite good.

Thursday, September 21, 2023

Lewa Conservancy Animal List

Last night, on the final game drive of our time at Sirikoi Lodge, Carol decided to create a list of all the animals/birds we had seen.  So we all worked together in the Land Rover to compile the list.  It's a pretty impressive one!  Some birds were not identified, but that no big deal.  Every animal we saw at least one of is on this list.

Zebra -- Grevy 

Zebra - Common

Oryx

Ostrich

Gerunuk

Eland

Dik dik

Cape Buffalo

Cheetah

Lioness

Black Rhino 

White Rhino

Elephant

Impala

Gazelle

Heart beast antelope

Bush buck

Water buck

Monkeys

Baboons

Hippos

Monitor lizard

Reticulated Giraffe

Cranes Crown

Hornbill

Lilac breasted roller

Oxpecker

Kori Bustard

Guinea fowl

Hyenas

Jackel

 Glossy starling

Superb  starling

Ibis

Pelican

Warthog

Big black spider in our closet

Leopard

Kudu

Weaver bird

Male lion!


Wednesday, September 20, 2023

The moonlit wings reflect the stars that guide me towards salvation

Upon arrival at Sirikoi Lodge, we were met by the manager, a friendly fifth-generation Kenyan (family originally from England) named Matt.  A young fellow, he gave us an orientation to the cottage and to the resort overall.  We immediately start

(Writer aside note: Just so you understand how magical this place is, I'm sitting on the deck blogging in the early morning.  So far I've watched two herds of elephants parade past in the savanna, the two giraffes outside our front door, and three impalas, two of whom butted horns.  The impalas circled each other, looking for a fight, but the presence of Sanjiv and I unnerved them and they didn't fight.  Beautiful birds have been flying around, squawking and calling out.)   

Back to our Monday arrival.  We went over to the majestic outside dining area for lunch and to gawk at the wildlife across the way at the water hole.  Back at the cottage, we stood on the deck and gawked at all creatures great and small.

At 4:30 we had our first game drive.  On safari you typically do two game drives each day -- one before breakfast and one before dinner until dark.  That's when the animals are most active, moving around and feeding.  

The number of wildlife we saw is jaw-dropping.  We tooled around in our Land Rover, which is a side open, canopy-topped vehicle.  I think because it was our first drive (not counting the drive from the air strip, which counts), James took us the routes that had plentiful viewing opportunities.  Sanjiv and I took photos as though we could win a prize!

The landscape is amazing.  Rolling hills, crashing valleys, oases of green trees and water, mountains in the distance.  

But enough about the drive, let's get to some photos. 

Impala on Lodge grounds near the cottage.

More reliable than a Chevy Impala.


Glossy starlings

Pumbaa!  Which, btw, is Swahili for "Idiot."
Disney does have a sense of humor.
Warthogs lift their tails in the air when
running so the young warthogs have
something to follow.


Ostrich and rhino.  It's amazing how
closely the different animals graze.

Impala and rhino.


The elephant's trunk is a fusion of its nose
and upper lip.  It's comprised of around
40,000 muscles!

Elephants can drink up to nearly four
gallons of water at a time into its trunk
and then blow the water straight
into its mouth.


Oxpecker on a cape buffalo.

Classic Africa pic.

Not Geoffrey.

Oxpeckers on a giraffe.  Love the
pattern on the reticulated giraffe.

This bird is a Kori Bustard
(yes, the spelling is correct).


But she hears only whispers of some quiet conversation. She's coming in, 12:30 flight

There might be some competition for the title, but the drive from the Lewa "airport" (dirt strip, not even a lean-to, very cool place to land) to the Sirikoi Lodge is my choice as MADFAAITW (which means, of course, the Most Astonishing Drive From An Airport In The World).

It all makes sense now, as the landing strip is located in the Lewa Conservancy.  But at the time, I was astonished by the sheer number and variety of wild animals we saw.  So, even though it was just an airport transfer, it was more like a game drive.

Our guide for the drives, James, picked us up at the airport He is very patient, stopping and waiting for us (primarily Sanjiv and I) to take photos.  (Spoiler alert: James has been an excellent guide.  Which is probably why he guided for Prince William and Kate.  More importantly, James also guided for Paul Hogan of Crocodile Dundee fame.)

The land is absolutely stunning; a fitting backdrop for the animals.  Wide open savanna with oases and water holes every so often.  Both stands of trees and solitary trees that are evocative of scenes from every movie you've ever seen set in Africa.

I won't be doing a lot of writing for this trip blog, because the photos tell the story.  But come along and join me, because there are some stories to tell.  The pictures below are all from the MADFAAITW -- and these are only a portion of the photos I took on that short drive.

We checked into our beautiful two bedroom cottage, with master suites for both us and the Bansals.  There is a large middle room and a small kitchen.  Each of the three rooms has a fireplace, and our porter would build a fire in each one at night.  The best feature is the deck.  At night we've been sitting around the firepit, telling stories if we have one.  During the day all sorts of animals have passed by in our backyard, and there are many, many more animals in the adjoining savanna and waterhole.

It's a short walk to the beautiful outdoor dining room, which gets us even closer to the waterhole.  There's a heated infinity pool with spectacular views of the wildlife, and it's going to be difficult to leave this place!  Some of the photos I took from the deck that first day are below.

Note the blue legs on the ostrich.

Common Zebra.  They have wider
stripes that the Grevy Zebra, which is
not found outside of a small part
of Kenya, Somalia, and Ethiopia. 

The first, but far from last, elephants we saw.

White rhinos are grazers, while black rhinos
are browsers (they eat leaves).  White rhinos
are called "white" not because of their
coloring, but because the Dutch settlers
used the word "wyd" to describe their
mouths.  Early English settlers in
South Africa thought they were saying 
"white."

Buffalo are the main source of food for
lions, primarily because there are so many.
Don't be fooled though, as the hook
shape of the horns are quite dangerous to
lions and humans alike.  Buffalo become
more dangerous when wounded.


The oxpecker is welcome relief for white
and black rhinos, as the bird eats the
ticks that latch onto rhinos.

White rhinos are much chiller
than black rhinos, who's
answer to everything is 
to charge and attack.

The oxpecker isn't just hitching a ride.

This impala gets better gas
mileage than a Chevy Impala.


This is an eye of a common zebra.
Females are dominant in the hierarchy.
The lead female leads the group when
moving, with foal and other females
behind her.  The stallion guards the rear.

This impala is the first of the photos I took
from our deck.  He's off the left on our 
"backyard."

The one in the back is a Grevy's Zebra,
 pronounced by our guide James
 as "gravy," and it is especially popular
served at Kenyan Thanksgiving, spooned
over their turkey, stuffing, and mashed 
potatoes.  (Editor: Don't mislead your
readers!  Writer: I'm not worried.  I have
 the smartest readers in the blogosphere.
They know it's a joke.)

When walking, giraffes move both legs on
one side at the same time.  So both
right legs step, and then both left legs step.

With the open air middle room, we were
told to keep our bedroom doors closed
because the monkeys like to go in and
take Ambien and Malarone, which
I suppose is why they sleep well and
never get malaria.

Bright blue coloring of his, um, well,
this is a family blog, so move along
to the next picture.

Same dude as above.  Look
at the length of his tail.

Grevy's zebras are the only ones who have
a "kindergarten" for their foals.  While their
moms go to the watering hole to drink,
the stallion watches the foals.  Of 
course, most of these are Common 
Zebras, except the one in the very back.

So This Just Happened (Or, You Definitely Want To Watch This Video)

I took this video from the deck of our cottage at Sirikoi Lodge, Lewa Conservancy, Kenya.  A real thrill to have the giraffes come this close to us.  

I know my voice trails off in the video, but
that's because I was so amazed by this
magical moment I was at a loss for words.


Tuesday, September 19, 2023

I Hear The Drums Echoing Tonight

(Editor:  I've never interrupted before the first sentence back-to-back before, but are you going to jam lyrics from Toto's Africa as the blog post headlines down our throats?  Writer: You betcha!)

After reuniting over breakfast with Sanjiv and Meena for the first time in person since saying our goodbyes in April 2022 while leaving the Galapagos, we flew on a tiny plane from Nairobi's Wilson Airport to Newa Conservancy's dirt strip airfield.  

From front to back: Sanjiv, Carol,
Meena, and the Iron Tourist.

Sanjiv and some blogger.

Pre-flight selfie.

The plane ride was uneventful, and we were immediately greeted by James, the Kenyan who was to be our guide for the three days at Sirikoi Lodge (if you google it, you'll see it's pretty posh, but after all, "it's the posh, posh traveling life, the traveling life for me!")

Come On And Safari With Me

(Editor's note: First blog post from Kenya and you are using a Beach Boys lyric for the title?  Writer: I know, isn't it grand?).

Carol, Julia, and I had done a three day safari in Sabi Sabi, South Africa in 2014.  It was fabulous, but it also stoked my interest in doing a longer safari trip in East Africa; the hotspots of safaris being Kenya and Tanzania.

So, with our new friends from our Machu Picchu/Galapagos trip, Sanjiv and Meena Bansal, we planned a trip through one of our travel companies, Inspirato.  (Bolger Co. does a LOT of the travel planning for Bolger trips, but Africa is a bit out of our league.)

Carol and I flew to Paris and then to Nairobi.  We pre-booked a cab to take us to our hotel.  Well, as my friend John Passacantando would say, "it's not an adventure until the first thing goes wrong."  We got that out of the way early, as the company coordinating our travel forgot to pick us up.  

So there we were, standing at the chaotic Nairobi airport, without a clue of what to do.  We were tired, grumpy, and a bit overwhelmed after a lengthy wait at immigration.  Given that it was fast approaching midnight, and we had a 10am flight the next morning, things were looking grim.  

One gentleman who was involved in the cab stand in some fashion helped us, and things got better when we were joined by a second fellow.  Their patience was wonderful, and eventually it got sorted out.  The car/driver company had another car waiting at the airport, so they stuck us in that car and called another van for the other couple.

We were pretty exhausted by the we got to the hotel close to 1:00 am.  My mood wasn't improved when I checked the score of the Cardinals-Giants game.  Everything got better after that -- the Giants came back and won the game, and we got to the safari camp in a relatively painless way.

Wednesday, June 21, 2023

Trip Favs

Readers seem to like to know our favorite parts of the trip.  I used to only do this on larger trips, but I get enough requests that I did this for the three week trip to Spain that just Carol and I took earlier this year.  Here's the questions for England with our answers:

Question 1

Three fav things we did in London.  Short explanation as to why for each

Carol:  1. Tower - so much history, great tour, 2. RIB tour - very cool, never been on the Thames, 3. Westminster Abbey - going there means we're in England.

Glen: Same choices as Carol  With the Tower, the history is jaw-dropping, and it is so much fun to both tour and wander around aimlessly.  I was worried about the Thames RIB tour, but it was exhilarating and interesting at the same time.  And yes, Westminster Abbey will always hold a special place in my heart as I discussed in that post. 

I'm going to cheat and add a fourth favorite -- the Churchill War Rooms.  The great man had many famous sayings.  His "never was so much owed by so many to so few" applies not just to the pilots of the Royal Air Force, but it also applies to the courageous men and women who worked in the War Rooms against what appeared to be insurmountable odds.  And they, with some help from friends across the pond, beat back Hitler and the Nazis from ending Western Civilization.

Question 2

Three fav things we did in Cotswold.  Short explanation

Carol: 1. Bourton on the Water - beautiful Cotswold town - exactly what I thought the Cotswold would look like.  2. The Broadway Hike - it was hard, but I made it and it was so prettty.  3.  Listening to music at the Half Way - great atmosphere, fun chatting with our landlords.

Glen:  I'd put Sudeley Castle first -- everything you want in an English castle, including dramatic ruins, towers, and stunning gardens.  Then the Broadway Tower hike -- hard but beautiful.  Perfect way to spend a chunk of a day in Cotswold.  Then the pubs, with the Half Way leading the way.

Question 3

Top two meals/restaurants and why?

Carol: The King's Head pub for lunch after hike. - great food, great atmosphere, fun after the hike.  The Double Red Duke: the pub where we stayed the last night - sitting at the chef's counter was fun and the food was excellent - the scallop was delicious.

Glen: I would flip Carol's choices, with the Double Red Duke first (for reasons I already blogged) and The King's Head pub second.  We ate better food elsewhere, but the combination of hiking, excellent roast beef and yorkshire pudding, and (of course) beer puts The King's Head in a solid second place.

Question 4

What’s one thing you wish we had gotten to do?

Carol: British Museum - haven't been since 1983.

Glen: Yeah, I'm embarrassed to admit I've never been to the British Museum.  In 1984 I thought why spend money on a museum when there is so many cool castles, abbeys, historical buildings to see?  Now I really want to see a lot of the stuff that the museum will be returning to other countries in the next ten years or so.

Question 5

Observations about the trip you would want our readers to know? 

Carol: England is an amazing country.  So much history, great people, beautiful countryside.  We hadn't been there since 2003 and it was wonderful to rediscover England.  It seemed like London didn't have as many cars on the road - I'm sure due to the congestion zones which made it easier to get around.  We definitely need to go back and spend more time in London.  We also need to discover more of rest of the country.

I'm so glad that Glen was willing to do the driving in the Cotswold.  The narrow two-way roads were a bit terrifying.  Finally, being in a country where we both speak the language made everything easier.  While we love going to Spain, my language skills are always rusty for a few days and Glen was able to more freely participate in conversations. 

Glen: Driving in Cotswold is terrifying.  There's so much to see in London and England overall that we're already planning to go back in two years.  I do enjoy hanging out in a pub and talking with Brits -- despite the saying "two countries separated by a common language," I enjoy every conversation with that common language, especially as Brits are so welcoming and friendly.