Some photos by Sanjiv

Sanjiv Bansal took my request for answers to my questions (final blog post) very seriously.  He included photos to illustrate his points.  That blew my mind, because no one has ever done it before.  I didn't want to lengthen the last post -- it's already long.  However, some of the photos are so compelling that I had to include them in a separate post.  

Enjoy:

All the birds and I didn't see one egg. 

Sanjiv nailed it with this photo!

One more picture of Machu Picchu:

definitely NOT one too many.

I posted any number of photos

of Magnificent Frigate birds,

but Sanjiv's photo did a great

job of capturing the green 

feathers.  I'm green with envy!

This is a very cool shot up

Prince Phillip's steps. I'm

above in red with goofy hiking

hat.  Nancy is below me, then

Mary, and finally Meena.

Sanjiv deserves huge props

for telling us to turn around

so he could get this shot.

I love, love, love this shot of Sanjiv

and Meena at Ollantaytambo.

(And I don't even have to look

up the spelling of it!)

Hawk in Peru at Inka 

del Tambo in Urubamba.

Remember how I noted I'm not good at 

taking pictures of birds in flight.  Well,

not only is Sanjiv a better orthopedic

surgeon than I am, he's better at

taking pictures of hummingbirds!

By the way, I know I've mentioned this in passing, but Carol and I look forward to many years of friendship with Sanjiv and Meena, and with Charles and Sharilynn.  Great people, and their already warm friendship that we developed on this trip is a significant bonus.

The Tourist Trap At the Middle of the World

So it was a tourist trap, and yet it was, in its own way, cool.  America has plenty of tourist traps -- biggest ball of yarn, Wild West City in Stanhope, NJ (they were a client of my dad's advertising firm, so we got to go frequently as young kids -- very cool).

It's the Itinan Solar Museum, and I will let roadunraveled.com comment on the place:

"The Intiñan Solar Museum is part guided tour, part museum, and part    carnival, and it’s a fun way to spend an hour or so. We joined a group with a local guide who provided an interesting introduction to Ecuadorian history and culture."

After being taken to some displays, we went down to the real star of the show -- the Equator, and the line.  According to a sign, GPS shows it is the equator, I suppose they were definitive about this because of another line in that same blog:

"The real fun started when we were first deposited on the red line that marks the “true” equator, although my GPS never quite showed that: I consistently saw 0° 0′ 6” latitude and, once, 0° 0′ 4” latitude, neither of which would indicate I was precisely standing on the equator."

I choose to believe it was the Equator, and even if it's off by a little, at some points during our wandering around "the museum" it's clear we stepped on and around the equator.

The entrance.

The Chipmunks toeing the line.  One foot

is in the Northern Hemisphere and

the other is in the Southern.

Mary and Neil.

Bruce and Nancy.

PDA Alert!  Daughters,

look away quickly!

Back to the roadunraveled.com blog for a succinct description of the Stupid Human Tricks they had as do -- better that I cut and paste rather than essentially type the whole thing again.

"The majority of the Intiñan Solar Museum tour consists of feats the staff claim cannot be duplicated unless you are right on the equator. We started with a demonstration about balance: everyone was encouraged to stand on the red line, close their eyes, and try to walk in a straight line along the equator. While most people struggled, there were a few people who could walk the line easily. Was it because the equator genuinely makes it hard to walk in a straight line, or was it because most people have a hard time walking with their eyes closed? It’s hard to tell without observing the same people attempt the same action away from the equator, but it was entertaining to watch people veer off-course as they lost their balance.

"We were then escorted further along the equator where a golden basin filled with water stood on the red line. To demonstrate the Coriolis effect, our guide pulled the drain stopper from the basin and we watched as all of the water rushed out—without draining clockwise or counterclockwise. Our guide then moved the basin to the northern hemisphere just a few feet away, filled it with water, and removed the stopper. The water drained out, but this time it moved in a decidedly clockwise rotation. To complete the demonstration, the basin was moved to the southern hemisphere, where the water drained in a clear counterclockwise rotation.

The last experiment was a favorite for most people: balancing an egg on a nail. Our guide told us it’s only possible to achieve such a feat on the equator, where the yolk would be perfectly centered inside the shell. While this makes sense, it doesn’t mean a yolk can’t be perfectly centered anywhere else on the earth. In theory, you can balance an egg on a nail anywhere.  

Personally, I skipped the human tricks -- thanks to my ankle, I have balance problems even with my eyes open, so I took a seat in the shade and enjoyed the show.

It turns out there are two other spots near Quito to celebrate being at the Equator (when the ship crossed it both times in the Galapagos everyone was fast asleep, so the captain did not come on the microphone to wake us up.)  Those places are less touristy, but the equator is the equator, so even the tourist trappy place was good.

After we finished all that, we got back to the hotel around 3pm, and went up to the Terrace for lunch.  It didn't make sense to go out for lunch -- by the time we got back it would be nearly dinner.  And, de Plaza de San Francisco is up on a hill, so eating at the Terrace provided us with great views.

We spent the rest of the afternoon chilling at the hotel, had our COVID return test at 5:45 in the lobby, and promptly went to the hotel bar in a successful attempt to rid ourselves of the "swab up the nose" feeling.  We had dinner at the hotel again. . .we would have been more adventurous and ventured out, but Neil and Mary had a 3 am pick-up for their flight, while Bruce and Nancy had a 5:30 am pick-up for their separate birding adventure in the cloud forest.

The only thing left was for us to return home, and we did.

No Quit in Quito

When we were been driven from the airport to the hotel in Quito, Rodney gave us a stern talking to about how to walk around Quito.  No wallets or purses, no passports.  No backpacks.  We were to bring some money and a credit card, tucked unobtrusively into a pocket.  We received none of that kind of warning in Lima or Cusco.  I wonder why Quito is different.

So Rodney and our driver (name escapes me) picked us up at the hotel, and we headed for the Virgin Mary statue on a hill high above most of Cusco (the city is quite spread out).  Also known as the Dancing Virgin (you'll see it in one of my photos), at 135 feet it is higher than the far more famous Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro.

(Christ the Redeemer statue is easily "far more famous" because I had never even heard of the Quito Virgin Mary.)

It's also the biggest aluminum statue in the world, which has got to be worth something when ranking statues while sitting at a bar drinking beer with friends.

Virgin Mary

Virgin Mary, Glen, Carol.  The

Virgin Mary statue is the one

that's above us, in case

anyone is unclear.

Quito in the haze from the statue.

They say this looks like she's

dancing, but given the way

she is clutching her stomach

I think it is indigestion.

But I've been wrong before.

Another view from the hill.

When we first ascended up the roads and got out at the Virgin Mary, two tourist policewomen went up to Rodney and started talking with him at length.  We all thought we were being told to put our masks on (even though Ecuador doesn't have the insane outdoor masking rule that Peru has).  

As it turns out, the policewomen were warning us about the latest thievery scam.  Crooks throw something on your back shoulder, offer to help clean off the bird poop, and reach into your pocket while you are distracted.  That was good to know.

No one tried it on us, probably because they've heard about the Dynamic Duo's heroic rescue of my pickpocketed iPhone in Barcelona, when Carol and I teamed up as crime fighters to get my phone back.   

Then we descended into the old main part of Quito, where we walked around, admiring the colonial structures, the squares, the churches, and enjoying the downtown, except for when the crazy lady started berating poor Rodney. 

All of the dogs we saw looked well

fed and had very calm dispositions.

Are they strays, or do they just roam

around during the day and return

home at night?  Not sure.

Statue at the center of Plaza Grande.

Condor, national symbol of Ecuador.

Lion, national symbol of Spain.

The President's Palace.

One of the seven crosses on 

the Street of Seven Crosses. 

It's called that because there 

are seven crosses spread out along

the street.  (Editor's Note: Wow,

you never hesitate to point

out the obvious.  Blogger:

Obviously.)

This barbershop is located

in the basement of the

President's Palace.  Anyone

can get their haircut here,

as long as they don't blow

up the palace.

The crosses are decorated

because it was Semana Santa

(Holy Week).

The top of the Golden Church.

Part of the doorway.  No photos allowed

inside the church.  The Golden Church

is quite remarkable inside, but you'll

have to take my word for it.

Photo of the door, allowed.

Photos inside the church, not allowed.

Turtles, fish, and other sea

creatures on the door.

The church at Plaza de San Francisco,

right across from our hotel.

I had some questions for these guys, but

I decided to let sleeping dogs lie.

The lower half of the photo shows our 

hotel's terrace, where a few hours later we

had lunch.  High on the hill behind

it is the Virgin Mary statue.

Mary calls this a creepy photo.

I'm not sure if she's referring

to the penitent in purple

or the American in red.

Or both?

Very peaceful cloisters at the

Iglesias de San Francisco.

Absolutely beautiful.

Winged cherub.  Also a bit

high on the creepiness scale.

Altar.

After that, we took a quick break and headed to the Equator, where we could stand astride both hemispheres.

Our Man In Quito, Berated

So we're walking along a street in Quito when we come to a pre-protest gathering.  Our guide went to ask someone what the protest was about, when suddenly he was accosted.

A woman, presumably American, walks up to him and says loudly, "Metropolitan Touring, you are what's wrong with Quito.  I've lived in Quito 25 years and your company is ruining it."  Then she went on and on.  She is angry about a belief that Metropolitan Touring runs the city council and corruptly convinced the council to close more streets and make them pedestrian walking roads.  

She claimed that cars could no longer park in front of  small businesses, so I presume she owns a small business.  The flip side is my experience with pedestrian streets is that they draw more foot traffic, but what do I know.

The six of us were bewildered for a while.  Rodney talked calmly with her, but she just kept on yelling at him.  We went from mildly bemused to utterly annoyed at her.

Finally I bellowed at her, "Leave him alone, he's only doing his job."  The others joined in, telling her to leave.  I gotta believe Rodney does not both own the company (which is quite big in Ecuador) and also takes time to guide six random people around Quito.  

I thought about snatching her hat and throwing it, but decided she was so nuts that there was no telling how she would react.  After have six Americans defending our guide, she left.  

Weirdest encounter with a guide I've ever seen. 

If you see her on the streets of

Quito, avoid her.  She's nuts.

Nuts, nuts, nuts.

Photo credit: Neil Newhouse

The Revolt of the Chipmunks

It was a dark and stormy night when we landed in Quito.  It was around 7 pm, and raining hard.  We had not really eaten anything since a hurried lunch in Quito. 

Our man in Quito, Rodney, was there to meet us.  We get into our van, meet our driver, and Rodney announces a three hour tour of Quito that night.  In the heavy rain.  The streets are not crowned.  There are no gutters.  Given that it is the most hilly capital city I’ve ever seen, that meant every road was a rushing raging river, more suitable for whitewater rafting than driving or, more importantly, walking.

So we revolted.  Neil and Mary led the charge, with Mary serving as the point of the spear.  Rodney was nonplussed (I gotta use that word more often, it’s pretty cool!), got on his phone, and rearranged our schedules for the next day.  Going to Otavalo was ruled out, with Mary pointing out forcefully that we’ve already been to a weaving demonstration, and we were done. with weaving demonstrations.  The rest of us gave a chorus of hoots and hollers to indicate our agreement.

While writing this, I just looked up the distance to the village, Otavalo, from Quito.  One hundred kilometers.  Yes, 62 miles in a van one way, and let me tell you, the van wouldn’t be going 65 mph.  We dodged 3-4 hours of driving time the next day, as Rodney changed it so we would tour Quito in the morning and then go to the Equator.

Instead, we had a very nice dinner as the Chipmunk at the hotel.  When in Ecuador, get the potato soup.  Called Locro Quinteno, it is one of the best soups ever.  In the world.  So that means it is one of the best soups ever in the world.  And the bowl was so large I could have skipped the main course, which was supposed to be a Lamb Loin, but was so large I’m pretty sure they served the whole lamb.

By the way, we certainly had our problems with Nat Geo on this trip, but they picked excellent hotels (with the exception of the first night in Lima, but since the Wyndham is right at the airport, it was certainly a logical choice.).   In Quito, our hotel, the Casa Gangotena, was right on Plaza de San Francisco in the beating heart of the city.

Rando iPhone Photos That I Liked

Last night I was scrolling through my iPhone photos, and picked out a few random shots from the trip to make into a post.  After all, why not?

Bridge/Valley in Peru.  I think this is the

Sacred Valley of the Inca, but I

could be wrong.

Our waiter has done this before!

The Chipmunks.

Cusco at night.  The individual dots

are various houses going up

a mountain.

It's a dog party, a big dog party!

(By the way, the discussion over the

greatest children's book starts

with "Go Dog Go" and ends

with "Go Dog Go."

Ollantaytambo.

Rainbow at Machu Picchu

Another rainbow at Machu Picchu

Our musicians at Yaku

restaurant in Cusco.

Nat Geo Screws Up. Again.

While Lindblad has been great, since their job was the handle the Galapagos cruise portion of the trip, National Geographic has not covered itself in glory on this trip.  I think they are too thinly staffed, and with COVID subsiding, stretched way too thin.

We get to the airport to fly out of the Galapagos, and the naturalists (not their fault) hand out the boarding passes.  I take mine and immediately stuff it into my wallet.  Carol takes hers, and does that weird thing where she actually looks at it.

Her diligence pays off, because our ticket says we are only going to Guayaquil, instead of staying on the plane and flying to Quito as planned for our trip extension.  Turns out Bruce and Nancy’s tickets were right, but Neil and Mary’s were also wrong.

Carol immediately shifts into that extra gear she has, the New Yorker gear, even though she has not lived in the state full-time since most of 1981.  Paulo (Paul) takes us under his wing, leads us to the airline counter, where the airline workers are confused for the better part of an hour.

Eventually they straighten that out, even though they tested our patience by asking multiple times, “Are you sure you are going on to Quito.”  Yes, we were quite sure, and we even indicated it on the forms we filled out, which collected but not looked at.  The first hint should have been the afternoon before when they tried to give Carol and Mary the luggage tags that said “Guayaquil” instead Quito.  

(Editor’s Note: Where were you and Neil?  Blogger: Are you kidding me?  Carol and Mary didn’t want us anywhere near the luggage tag distribution, as we would have lost the tags faster than Usain Bolt used to run the 100 meters.)

Carol was insistent that the airline workers pull the bags and make sure they are properly labeled.  Given that such a move involved work, the workers tried to avoid doing it, but they didn’t realize right away who they were dealing with.  

Eventually everything got sorted out, despite Nat Geo and Avianca’s best efforts.  We went through security, got empanadas for lunch, wolfed them down, and boarded the flight.  There went my plans of blogging for an hour before the flight.  But at least we got where we were going.