Where the Streets Have Long Names

It took a bit -- probably two hours or so -- but Vienna started growing on me to the point where I really did like it a lot.  It's not the medieval city of Prague, but it is certainly a grand city.  It took a pastry shop and then a palace to change my early impressions of Vienna (Austria, not Virginia for those not up on what this blog is about).

We started from the hotel, and walked through the Burggarten on our way to the Innere Stadt (inner city).  Cutting over to Kartner Strasse (one of the shortest street names in Vienna -- our hotel is located on Mariahilferstrasse, and that's an average length name -- much less the long ones!).  Kartner Strasse was interesting -- stores of all sorts along a pedestrian only street.

The Stephansdom Cathedral was generally wrapped up in restoration work.  Going inside the Cathedral, it was not as interesting as I expected, and the set up was confusing.  There were free parts of the church, and then the paid parts.  The line was disorganized, and it looked like it was simply the place to rent audio guides.  We went up the South Tower elevator to the top, which afforded good views of Vienna across the actual Danube.

I should have taken a few moments to figure it out -- paid the full admission fee, so we could also walk up the 342 steps of the North Tower (which is, oddly, much taller than the South Tower -- an asymmetrical Cathedral -- I'll bet you are as surprised as I was), and walk throughout the Cathedral.  Although, to be fair to me (somebody has to be), the Cathedral was quite dark and, at least on that day, not overly inspiring.

After that, Torie talked me into a horse drawn carriage ride.  I acquiesed, figuring it would give us both a break from walking (with a full day ahead) AND allow us to see the Inner Stadt.  It was supposed to be 30 Euros for 20 minutes, but we only got a 12 minute ride, with no commentary from our horse guy (horse dude?).  I didn't tip.  The ride was fine, but we did not get a sense of what we were seeing. 

We went behind the Cathedral to Mozathaus, where he wrote "Marriage of Figaro," which always makes me think of Bugs Bunny.  We didn't go in, because not even Julia (our classical music fan) wanted to spend the time.  We walked over to the grandoise momument to the Plague, popped into Peterskirche for a quick look, and then headed toward Hofburg Palace. 

On our way to the monument, in the square outside the Stephansdom, we were approached by an overly aggressive handbill hander-outer.  Most of the handbill folks (for Mozart or other concerts, not strip bars like in NYC) took a polite wave-off.  This fellow was pushy, and he finally asked (in a rather rude fashion), after the third "no thanks" if we didn't like music.  Carol said we were leaving town that very day, and I wanted to say, but didn't -- "no, we don't like you."  Well, upon further review, my preference for civility should have been vetoed by my sarcastic side -- I should have said it.

We stopped for a snack and drink at Der Demel, perhaps the most famous of the Vienna Cafes.  Despite the cool weather, we sat outside, watching people go by, and enjoying our pastries.  I had their famous Apple Strudel.  I needed to use the WC, so I went inside to find it -- what a revelation.  Large room after large room packed with people enjoying their coffee and pastries.  At the bar, one man was even drinking red wine (at 11:00 am?  Well, it is five o'clock somewhere!  Albeit not my idea of a good way to start the day).  The WCs are upstairs on the third floor, and on the way up, I explored the second story as well -- also huge, grand rooms with people.  This is what the mansions must look like on the inside, albeit without the delicious pastries.

I started liking Vienna better.  From there it was a short walk to the Hofburg Palace.  The palace is amazing on many levels, from the sheer size, to the collection of silver, gold, and ceramic table settings saved from the Imperial days.  The audio guides (which come with the tour) were quite interesting, although we had to skip some or we would have been there all day. 

The display on Sisi's life and death (she was assassinated by an anarchist while Empress of Austria) was quite interesting, but to me the best part were the rooms used by Emperor Franz Joseph, and by Sisi.  Very interesting, particularly with the audio guide.  And the 68 rooms or so that we went through were just a smidgen of the palace's rooms.  The imperial part of Austria's past was something I had not spent much time on in my learnings, so it was like starting from scratch.

And all this before lunch.