Heading North towards Galilee, the Golan Heights, and the northern part of the West Bank.
Every speaker thus far has talked without notes. Very impressive.
At one point, Israel is just nine miles wide. Think Mt.Vernon to Alexandria.
Nearly all Israelis speak English (along w Hebrew and, often one or two more languages. Some of our speakers have thick accents, but their English is better than my Hebrew (as in I don't have any).
Seeing the minarets of the mosques is beautiful. Yet weird. We're on the West Bank right now.
In a land of strange juxtapositions, left a modern settlement started in the 1980s and looking like Scottsdale AZ. On the way down the hills, passed both a sheepherder (and his sheep) along w a goatherder (and his goats). They were both wearing throwback uniforms that looked more like the time of Jesus than the time of Hugo Boss.
Food is so amazing I skipped breakfast and ate the Kiwi in the room.
The folks at AIEF worked the weather well. It poured on Tuesday, which was a day chock full of meetings. The days outside have been beautiful. Good work on the weather!
The group has bonded pretty well, having rollicking discussions about American politics.
Camel sightings!!!
The folks at AIEF know what they are doing. Great program, impressive speakers. Only two suggestions thus far -- one less speaker on Tuesday, and have tissues on the bus after Yad Vashem. (More on that later).
On my run this morning, went past the bar that was bombed next to the American Embassy in Tel Aviv.
Settlements here aren't what I expected to see. And, it's like a Century 21 ad -- location, location, location!
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Jerusalem from the Sherover Promenade
Frankly, the photo doesn't do the view justice, so I suppose you'll just have to come to Jerusalem and see for yourself.
This Stinks.
Okay, lest you get the wrong impression, I stink. Not figuratively, but literally. I just got back from a run along the beaches of Tel Aviv. So, I worked up a sweat -- big deal. Well, the reason I'm riper than normal is that I ran in the same workout gear I wore yesterday (all Nike running gear, but I'm skeptical they'll sponsor me).
So, I was already ripe when I started this morning.
Anyhow, I make it point to run in great cities and along major bodies of water when I can. Jerusalem yesterday and the Mediterrean Sea just now hit both of those goals. Given we got to Tel Aviv as the sun literally sank into the Sea, it's hard to get a feel for the place, although we did walk back 20 minutes through the city to the hotel.
Comparisons are always dangerous, because they oversimplify, but what the heck -- it's a blog, so let's do it anyhow. Tel Aviv strikes me as more of a New York City (combined with the beaches of Miami), while the sport of Jerusalem is clearly politics (aka Washington, DC). Obviously, DC lacks the same few thousand years of history that Jerusalem has, but there also still a sense from Mt. Vernon to the Capitol Building, that it is a focal point of a nation's history.
Alright, enough of the stretched comparisons.
So, I was already ripe when I started this morning.
Anyhow, I make it point to run in great cities and along major bodies of water when I can. Jerusalem yesterday and the Mediterrean Sea just now hit both of those goals. Given we got to Tel Aviv as the sun literally sank into the Sea, it's hard to get a feel for the place, although we did walk back 20 minutes through the city to the hotel.
Comparisons are always dangerous, because they oversimplify, but what the heck -- it's a blog, so let's do it anyhow. Tel Aviv strikes me as more of a New York City (combined with the beaches of Miami), while the sport of Jerusalem is clearly politics (aka Washington, DC). Obviously, DC lacks the same few thousand years of history that Jerusalem has, but there also still a sense from Mt. Vernon to the Capitol Building, that it is a focal point of a nation's history.
Alright, enough of the stretched comparisons.
A Land of Milk and Honey
For dinner Monday night, we boarded the bus (if it seems like we're constantly on the go and have no free time, it only seems that way because that's the way it is!) and traveled into a neighborhood for one of the finest meals I've ever had (and I've had many a good one).
People have been living in this neighborhood for upwards of four thousand years -- and it is where John the Baptist grew up. It's now part of Jerusalem, but back then it was a small town.
The bus couldn't fit through the road to get to the restaurant, so we hiked it up hill on a narrow street after passing under an arch. It was raining lightly when we disembarked, so I disdainfully (and stupidly) turned down the offer of an umbrella. Well, what started as a light rain quickly turned heavy. I finally took up the offer to share an umbrella, but was pretty well dripping wet.
The restaurant ("Spoons") bills itself as the fine art of cuisine, and the owner (Hila Solomon) sure got it right. It's actually in a lovely home entered through a beautiful garden path. They had one long table set up, and just kept bringing dish after dish. The figs and the lamb appetizer were my two particular favorites, but that's not to slight the remaining dishes. I quickly realized my situation was hopeless, as there were no doggy bags to pour the uneaten lamb for taking home and gorging on later. We had two options for main courses -- chicken or fish. I can't speak re the fish (which looked good), but the spices on the chicken were delicious.
For more info on Spoons: http://www.uniqueideas.biz/ZFA/Pulse45/18.htm
Now that I'm done shilling for this fabulous restaurant, let's get to the guests. Two journalists from Ha'aretz newspaper joined us -- Avi Issacharoff, the Arab Affairs correspondent, and Amos Harel, the Military Affairs correspondent. They work as a complimentary team, breaking stories and writing books and columns together. Apparrently, their recent coverage of the Gaza Strip issues has been controversial both in the country and internationally, and they had many interesting stories and perspectives. Avi told of having coffee late into the evening in Cairo with Hamas leaders.
I asked Avi if, given all his work in meeting with the PLO, Hamas, and other Arab radicals, he ever felt his life were in danger and that he would not make it through the day. He told the humorous story (after the fact) of covering a funeral for ten Hamas soldier/terrorists who had been killed. The crowd turned into a mob, so he grabbed a Hamas leader by the arm (so the leader couldn't fire his AK-47 into the air) and began interviewing him. The Hamas leader gave him a look that implied that Avi's Arabic was very good, but might he be Jewish? Then the next look was -- "no way, no Jew would be that crazy to be here."
Aside from that story, it's strange how the Palestinians crave press even from Israeli newspapers and TV. But, if these issues were easy to solve, it would have been done by now.
After dessert, we made our way back to the bus through the pouring rain (this time I shared an umbrella the whole way down). A group of us reconvened at the hotel bar and closed down the bar (shocking for a group of political consultants to do so).
People have been living in this neighborhood for upwards of four thousand years -- and it is where John the Baptist grew up. It's now part of Jerusalem, but back then it was a small town.
The bus couldn't fit through the road to get to the restaurant, so we hiked it up hill on a narrow street after passing under an arch. It was raining lightly when we disembarked, so I disdainfully (and stupidly) turned down the offer of an umbrella. Well, what started as a light rain quickly turned heavy. I finally took up the offer to share an umbrella, but was pretty well dripping wet.
The restaurant ("Spoons") bills itself as the fine art of cuisine, and the owner (Hila Solomon) sure got it right. It's actually in a lovely home entered through a beautiful garden path. They had one long table set up, and just kept bringing dish after dish. The figs and the lamb appetizer were my two particular favorites, but that's not to slight the remaining dishes. I quickly realized my situation was hopeless, as there were no doggy bags to pour the uneaten lamb for taking home and gorging on later. We had two options for main courses -- chicken or fish. I can't speak re the fish (which looked good), but the spices on the chicken were delicious.
For more info on Spoons: http://www.uniqueideas.biz/ZFA/Pulse45/18.htm
Now that I'm done shilling for this fabulous restaurant, let's get to the guests. Two journalists from Ha'aretz newspaper joined us -- Avi Issacharoff, the Arab Affairs correspondent, and Amos Harel, the Military Affairs correspondent. They work as a complimentary team, breaking stories and writing books and columns together. Apparrently, their recent coverage of the Gaza Strip issues has been controversial both in the country and internationally, and they had many interesting stories and perspectives. Avi told of having coffee late into the evening in Cairo with Hamas leaders.
I asked Avi if, given all his work in meeting with the PLO, Hamas, and other Arab radicals, he ever felt his life were in danger and that he would not make it through the day. He told the humorous story (after the fact) of covering a funeral for ten Hamas soldier/terrorists who had been killed. The crowd turned into a mob, so he grabbed a Hamas leader by the arm (so the leader couldn't fire his AK-47 into the air) and began interviewing him. The Hamas leader gave him a look that implied that Avi's Arabic was very good, but might he be Jewish? Then the next look was -- "no way, no Jew would be that crazy to be here."
Aside from that story, it's strange how the Palestinians crave press even from Israeli newspapers and TV. But, if these issues were easy to solve, it would have been done by now.
After dessert, we made our way back to the bus through the pouring rain (this time I shared an umbrella the whole way down). A group of us reconvened at the hotel bar and closed down the bar (shocking for a group of political consultants to do so).
In A Big Country
Going back in time to Monday, after touring the Old City with Ian as our in-depth guide, we headed off to lunch at a restaurant (must track down name!) with Professor Reuven Hazan. The professor gave us an excellent overview of the recent elections, and how the political system is divided between the Hawks, the Doves, and now the new middle party -- Kadima. The meal was excellent (interestingly, a variety of vegetarian dishes), and the briefing was thorough. While the first two speakers gave us some perspective, Prof. Hazan gave us a chalk talk that provided a grounding for the rest of the week.
Then, we got back on the bus and drove to a neighborhood overlooking the controversial security fence. Before the fence (or barrier, or wall, depending on who is calling it what), there had been the 2nd intifada (sp?), with suicide bombers loose in Jerusalem, as well as significant sniper fire from the Palestinian towns that we could see from the street. The fence has been successful at driving down the number of suicide bombings, and there is no longer sniper fire at the apartments. Indeed, people were even out on their patios in the apartments (there is a very low rental rate in Israel. Most people own their homes/apartments. For some reason, the apartments that were being shot at were taking a long time to sell, so simply leaving was not an affordable option).
It is striking just how small a country Israel is. The security fence is yet another reminder -- suicide bombers could just slip across the border and blow themselves up in the City Center of Jerusalem.
For more on the fence: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Israeli_West_Bank_barrier
Prior to arriving at the Security Fence overlook, we stopped at the Sherover Promenade for a spectacular view of Jerusalem -- the Old City and the Mount of Olives.
For the bigger picture on just how small Israel is, we then headed over to the National Security Council to meet wtih Sima Shine, the Deputy Head of the Israeli NSC. She had formerly been with Mossad, so I made the relatively easy decision not to trifle with her. Her talk focused on two aspects -- Hamas and -- as an even bigger concern -- Iran.
It is clear from the first two days that most Israelis (including the press coverage) are significantly more concern about the Iranian nuclear threat than Americans are. Of course, they are one of the likeliest targets of any Iranian nuclear threat. From the discussion of Iran whilst here, it is likely that either the U.S., some coalition of nations, or Israel will have to act decisively in the next few years to forestall Iran from fully developing a nuclear weapon.
We did have to go through two security screenings to get into the meeting with the NSC, although I think our status on this trip probably kept the security from being even more in-depth.
Then, we got back on the bus and drove to a neighborhood overlooking the controversial security fence. Before the fence (or barrier, or wall, depending on who is calling it what), there had been the 2nd intifada (sp?), with suicide bombers loose in Jerusalem, as well as significant sniper fire from the Palestinian towns that we could see from the street. The fence has been successful at driving down the number of suicide bombings, and there is no longer sniper fire at the apartments. Indeed, people were even out on their patios in the apartments (there is a very low rental rate in Israel. Most people own their homes/apartments. For some reason, the apartments that were being shot at were taking a long time to sell, so simply leaving was not an affordable option).
It is striking just how small a country Israel is. The security fence is yet another reminder -- suicide bombers could just slip across the border and blow themselves up in the City Center of Jerusalem.
For more on the fence: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Israeli_West_Bank_barrier
Prior to arriving at the Security Fence overlook, we stopped at the Sherover Promenade for a spectacular view of Jerusalem -- the Old City and the Mount of Olives.
For the bigger picture on just how small Israel is, we then headed over to the National Security Council to meet wtih Sima Shine, the Deputy Head of the Israeli NSC. She had formerly been with Mossad, so I made the relatively easy decision not to trifle with her. Her talk focused on two aspects -- Hamas and -- as an even bigger concern -- Iran.
It is clear from the first two days that most Israelis (including the press coverage) are significantly more concern about the Iranian nuclear threat than Americans are. Of course, they are one of the likeliest targets of any Iranian nuclear threat. From the discussion of Iran whilst here, it is likely that either the U.S., some coalition of nations, or Israel will have to act decisively in the next few years to forestall Iran from fully developing a nuclear weapon.
We did have to go through two security screenings to get into the meeting with the NSC, although I think our status on this trip probably kept the security from being even more in-depth.
Never Again
Israel certainly is a land of contrasts. I'm in my Sheraton Hotel room in Tel Aviv, just having watched the last of the sunset over the Mediterrean Sea. But, we just came from the Palmachin IDF Base (IDF -- Israel Defense Forces) where we were given a movie and tour on the Arrow defense missile. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arrow_missile
There were several cool aspects to this show and tour. The first is that we got to go into one of the two control rooms in the country that coordinates the Arrow missile. The control room was in training mode, not full search and destroy mode, which is good -- one because it meant no one was shooting at us (and by "us" I mean the nation of Israel, and by "no one" I mean Syria or Iraq. I know which side I'm on in this one), and two (yes, it's a long sentence, but it's a blog for pity's sake!), because we got to see some stuff happening on the screens.
The room is like a James Bond film come to life. Serious (yet very young) IDF officers perched at oversized computer screens with lots of cool stuff going on. think an HD version of Missile Command.
Another cool aspect is that President Reagan's SDI is mentioned in the briefing as a genesis of this self defense missile. Remember, the point of the Arrow missile is to shoot down Ballastic Missile (not rockets fired across the border from the Gaza Strip -- they are too small and hit in eight seconds from detection). No, this is for the 40 seconds they have to react from Syrian-fired missiles. Hmmm -- wonder where the concept came from (thanks, President Reagan).
I'm not a defense expert, but it appears the Arrow is the Patriot missile on steriods. Barry Bonds-style -- more accurate, more successful. They still use the Patriot, but the Arrow is the cornerstone.
Then, we were taken on a bus tour around one of the two main Arrow missile sites (they also have mobile launchers). With several Israeli military on the bus to narrate, Rob Stutzman and I tried to decide whether we would get shot for taking photos of the launchers. I started taking pictures, and he joined in (we had the theory that the Chinese already had satellite pics of it).
The moral of the story (from my perspective) is that Israel, between the security fence, the Arrow missile, and the willingness to move out of areas like the Gaza Strip, want to make sure that they will always have the upper hand against those who wish the worst upon Israel -- be it Hamas or Iraq.
(I know I'm jumping around in my blog posts now -- I've skipped Monday afternoon, all of Tuesday, and now Wednesday morning to cover Wednesday afternoon. Not to worry -- I'm going to catch up tonight.)
There were several cool aspects to this show and tour. The first is that we got to go into one of the two control rooms in the country that coordinates the Arrow missile. The control room was in training mode, not full search and destroy mode, which is good -- one because it meant no one was shooting at us (and by "us" I mean the nation of Israel, and by "no one" I mean Syria or Iraq. I know which side I'm on in this one), and two (yes, it's a long sentence, but it's a blog for pity's sake!), because we got to see some stuff happening on the screens.
The room is like a James Bond film come to life. Serious (yet very young) IDF officers perched at oversized computer screens with lots of cool stuff going on. think an HD version of Missile Command.
Another cool aspect is that President Reagan's SDI is mentioned in the briefing as a genesis of this self defense missile. Remember, the point of the Arrow missile is to shoot down Ballastic Missile (not rockets fired across the border from the Gaza Strip -- they are too small and hit in eight seconds from detection). No, this is for the 40 seconds they have to react from Syrian-fired missiles. Hmmm -- wonder where the concept came from (thanks, President Reagan).
I'm not a defense expert, but it appears the Arrow is the Patriot missile on steriods. Barry Bonds-style -- more accurate, more successful. They still use the Patriot, but the Arrow is the cornerstone.
Then, we were taken on a bus tour around one of the two main Arrow missile sites (they also have mobile launchers). With several Israeli military on the bus to narrate, Rob Stutzman and I tried to decide whether we would get shot for taking photos of the launchers. I started taking pictures, and he joined in (we had the theory that the Chinese already had satellite pics of it).
The moral of the story (from my perspective) is that Israel, between the security fence, the Arrow missile, and the willingness to move out of areas like the Gaza Strip, want to make sure that they will always have the upper hand against those who wish the worst upon Israel -- be it Hamas or Iraq.
(I know I'm jumping around in my blog posts now -- I've skipped Monday afternoon, all of Tuesday, and now Wednesday morning to cover Wednesday afternoon. Not to worry -- I'm going to catch up tonight.)
My Wife and Kids Shouldn't Read This
Well, I'm writing this on bberry while on the bus from Sederot to an Israeli Air Force Base. I've still got a lot of back posts to write (and will by tomorrow morn), but I had to post this.
Sederot is a town very close to the Gaza Strip that has taken the brunt of most of the rocket attacks from Hamas.
We went to an overlook to see Gaza City, The flowers are blooming, the birds were chirping, and you could hear gunfire from the Gaza Strip.
A woman who lived in a settlement in the Strip (Gaza, not Vegas) came and spoke very movingly to us. Her and her family left their home at the request of the govt -- in hopes of advancing peace.
The Palestinians had the Israelis bulldoze the houses so the Palestinians wouldn't fight over them. The shools, clinics were left, but go unused.
They live just 2.5 klicks from their old house, but in a caravan w no safe house. The govt hasn't moved them to a house as pledged four years ago, and their caravan park has come under attack.
They haven't moved to Tel Aviv or Jerusalem because that would be sueerendering to terrorism. She told a number of very moving stories about coming under rocket attack, including a family who suffered critical injuries in an attack.
In the old settlement, her next door neighbor's daughter was murdered by terrorists while on her first date.
I won't try and go in more depth, because I can't do it justice.
There is a reason nothing is easy here. The courage these people have is staggering -- many are descended from Holocaust survivors, and they had 60 years of war and terrorism.
The ability to build a nation and thrive under such circumstances is a testament to the character of the people of israel.
My life challenges -- not quite as deep! Right now my main concern is blackberry thumb from writing this post.
Sederot is a town very close to the Gaza Strip that has taken the brunt of most of the rocket attacks from Hamas.
We went to an overlook to see Gaza City, The flowers are blooming, the birds were chirping, and you could hear gunfire from the Gaza Strip.
A woman who lived in a settlement in the Strip (Gaza, not Vegas) came and spoke very movingly to us. Her and her family left their home at the request of the govt -- in hopes of advancing peace.
The Palestinians had the Israelis bulldoze the houses so the Palestinians wouldn't fight over them. The shools, clinics were left, but go unused.
They live just 2.5 klicks from their old house, but in a caravan w no safe house. The govt hasn't moved them to a house as pledged four years ago, and their caravan park has come under attack.
They haven't moved to Tel Aviv or Jerusalem because that would be sueerendering to terrorism. She told a number of very moving stories about coming under rocket attack, including a family who suffered critical injuries in an attack.
In the old settlement, her next door neighbor's daughter was murdered by terrorists while on her first date.
I won't try and go in more depth, because I can't do it justice.
There is a reason nothing is easy here. The courage these people have is staggering -- many are descended from Holocaust survivors, and they had 60 years of war and terrorism.
The ability to build a nation and thrive under such circumstances is a testament to the character of the people of israel.
My life challenges -- not quite as deep! Right now my main concern is blackberry thumb from writing this post.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Back by Popular Demand
Okay, so I'm way behind on posting details of the trip. I will catch up -- I always do, but for now, since we're leaving Jerusalem in an hour (unshowered, unpacked, haven't eaten yet -- but blogging after running comes first!) I'm going to jot out a few of my famous riffs -- observations on the trip thus far:
Israelis are a passionate lot. Given their struggle to survive, it's understandable, but the passion that they bring to their perspectives and their lives is amazing.
The food is fantastic and we are eating like kings. We are eating at nice restaurants, true -- but the freshness of the vegetables, the use of the spices, is staggering.
Unemployment must be low. It seems everyone is employed either in the military, as security, or in the high tech industry (which ranks behind the US as the second-biggest in the world).
For a desert, they've sure been getting a lot of rain. It is the rainy season, so the steady downpour of Monday night and nearly all of Tuesday has been helpful. It worked out well, since Tuesday was primarily an inside day of speakers. Today is sunny (one of the reasons I went for a run), and we are traveling around the country.
There is a widespread opinion that the political system here is broken -- too many parties, not enough ability for leadership. The major parties are in consensus that reform is needed, although it appears there is no consensus on reform. A total of 34 parties ran in the last election, although only 10-12 (will doublecheck that figure) won seats in the Knesset.
Politics, or at least complaining about politics, appears to be a national sport on par with the NFL. Fans of the losin team want to fire the coach, and fans of the winning team wonder why they aren't winning by more.
The hotel has an interesting design -- the windows are sideways into the room, which I'm theorizing is for security purposes -- so snipers couldn't get a clear shot at the guests (not a design feature found in your typical Marriott).
Well, back on the bus, Gus.
Israelis are a passionate lot. Given their struggle to survive, it's understandable, but the passion that they bring to their perspectives and their lives is amazing.
The food is fantastic and we are eating like kings. We are eating at nice restaurants, true -- but the freshness of the vegetables, the use of the spices, is staggering.
Unemployment must be low. It seems everyone is employed either in the military, as security, or in the high tech industry (which ranks behind the US as the second-biggest in the world).
For a desert, they've sure been getting a lot of rain. It is the rainy season, so the steady downpour of Monday night and nearly all of Tuesday has been helpful. It worked out well, since Tuesday was primarily an inside day of speakers. Today is sunny (one of the reasons I went for a run), and we are traveling around the country.
There is a widespread opinion that the political system here is broken -- too many parties, not enough ability for leadership. The major parties are in consensus that reform is needed, although it appears there is no consensus on reform. A total of 34 parties ran in the last election, although only 10-12 (will doublecheck that figure) won seats in the Knesset.
Politics, or at least complaining about politics, appears to be a national sport on par with the NFL. Fans of the losin team want to fire the coach, and fans of the winning team wonder why they aren't winning by more.
The hotel has an interesting design -- the windows are sideways into the room, which I'm theorizing is for security purposes -- so snipers couldn't get a clear shot at the guests (not a design feature found in your typical Marriott).
Well, back on the bus, Gus.
Running Thru History
Okay, so the blog post title is misleading -- it should be "Slowly Jogging Thru History," although that's not as action-oriented, even if true.
Just back from a 30 minute run through West Jerusalem, including the City Center, which is a pedestrian mall with shops lining the streets. Very few were open -- it's around 7am here, and the city is just coming to life. It's nice to see busses packed with people, whereas just a few years ago people were afraid to ride the busses because of suicide bombers. More than a few people have remarked that they used to be afraid to even stop at a light next to a bus, for fear they might get blown up too.
Anyhow, I make it a habit to try and go for a run or two anytime I'm in one of the great cities of the world (and I'd say Jerusalem qualifies). It's doubly inspiring. The only downside of running here is that the city truly consists of hills, so I ran up a hill, down a hill, and then back up a hill. By the time I got to the King David Hotel, I was happy that gravity works and it was all downhill from there!
Just back from a 30 minute run through West Jerusalem, including the City Center, which is a pedestrian mall with shops lining the streets. Very few were open -- it's around 7am here, and the city is just coming to life. It's nice to see busses packed with people, whereas just a few years ago people were afraid to ride the busses because of suicide bombers. More than a few people have remarked that they used to be afraid to even stop at a light next to a bus, for fear they might get blown up too.
Anyhow, I make it a habit to try and go for a run or two anytime I'm in one of the great cities of the world (and I'd say Jerusalem qualifies). It's doubly inspiring. The only downside of running here is that the city truly consists of hills, so I ran up a hill, down a hill, and then back up a hill. By the time I got to the King David Hotel, I was happy that gravity works and it was all downhill from there!
A Really Quick Update
Well, I finally got reliable wireless, so I've downloaded the first three posts of the trip. I'm still more than one day behind, and I'm not sure when I will get to upload photos. Anyhow, there are three posts up (read down), and the trip is incredibly fascinating so far (just back from a tour of the Knesset, as well as meetings with four different MKs from four different political parties.) More to follow.
A Shining City On A Hill
Rain had been predicted for today, but instead the sun smiled on our trip during the day. We started with breakfast at the hotel with Ron Dermer, an American-born and raised Israeli citizen who was Chief Strategist to the Netanyahu campaign, and will be working in the new government to improve Israel’s standing in the eyes of the world. As someone who knows American campaigns well, Ron offered extraordinary insight in the Israeli campaigns, providing us with a fascinating inside perspective on some of the challenges of political campaigns in Israel. The first two speakers of the trip have been amazing.
We then boarded the bus, which took us on the short and familiar route to the Jaffa Gate. There, we sat just outside the gate and enjoyed the sunshine as Ian gave us a brief yet in-depth history of Israel. We first cut into the Christian Quarter and into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which was built around Golgotha. We ascended the stairs to Golgotha (the rock visible through cutaways), seeing both the Catholic and the Orthodox Chapels – including the spot thought to be where Jesus was crucified. We then walked past the stone covering the stone on which He was laid and prepared for burial, and then the past what is believed to be His tomb. It’s amazing to be here after years of hearing and reading the story of His death and resurrection, and also to realize how close together everything is.
After that, we walked down David Street (yes, there’s a lot of stuff named after the guy, but to be fair, he’s the Israeli equivalent of George Washington, only slightly longer ago.) “Street” is used loosely – it’s a narrow passageway with small shops on either side, so as you are walking through the crowded areas, there is food, spices, souvenirs, and genuine tourist junk surrounding you. Reason enough to keep walking.). We ducked down an alleyway, up a flight of metal steps, and then came out on a roof with a view of most of the city - including the Dome of the Rock, El Aqsa Mosque, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of the Redeemer, and the Western Wall.
Ian also pointed out the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethesmane, and some of the Moslem areas of the outlying city. All of Jerusalem was laid out around us.
(Note to travelers – if you go to Jerusalem, use a professional guide for part of the trip if at all possible. They will take you places and tell you history much more easily than any guidebook can. It’s also interesting how many signs are tri-lingual – in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Not all signs are in English though, so it’s not an easy city to get around.)
We then went down to the Wall again, but there was a totally different vibe than from the night before. First, there were many more people there – but our guides allowed us to skip past the security lines (sort of like FastPass at Disney, but yet somehow different too!). Secondly, there were a number of bar mitzah ceremonies going on at the Wall – so there was singing and chanting; the joyous noise of celebration. It was also not nearly as formal feeling as the night before – a wider range of people were at the Wall.
(Interestingly, Israel is a very open society, but men and women must go to separated parts of the Wall, so the bar mitzah celebrations would be held at the wall between the men’s part of the wall and women’s part of the wall so the women could watch, sing, chant, and throw candy – it’s likely they have other roles in the ceremony, but I’m not an expert, so don’t take that as an exhaustive listing.)
We then went next door – still along the wall – and entered what Ian called the most important archaeological site in Israel. We saw the ancient baths, similar to what Mary used prior to entering the temple, as well as the remains of the arch. We then went around to side and sat on the steps that Jesus and others walked up to enter the Temple. All the while, Ian offered us a combination history lesson, Biblical perspective, and insight into why Jerusalem is so important to Jews, Christians, and Moslems alike. He provides a perspective that is not judgemental, and weaves in both stories from the Old and New Testament to weave a tapestry about what we are seeing – both now and in Biblical times.
We exited the city via the Dung Gate (I suppose I need to track down the etymology of that particular name) and boarded the bus for lunch. Yes, all of that was done in just one morning.
We then boarded the bus, which took us on the short and familiar route to the Jaffa Gate. There, we sat just outside the gate and enjoyed the sunshine as Ian gave us a brief yet in-depth history of Israel. We first cut into the Christian Quarter and into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which was built around Golgotha. We ascended the stairs to Golgotha (the rock visible through cutaways), seeing both the Catholic and the Orthodox Chapels – including the spot thought to be where Jesus was crucified. We then walked past the stone covering the stone on which He was laid and prepared for burial, and then the past what is believed to be His tomb. It’s amazing to be here after years of hearing and reading the story of His death and resurrection, and also to realize how close together everything is.
After that, we walked down David Street (yes, there’s a lot of stuff named after the guy, but to be fair, he’s the Israeli equivalent of George Washington, only slightly longer ago.) “Street” is used loosely – it’s a narrow passageway with small shops on either side, so as you are walking through the crowded areas, there is food, spices, souvenirs, and genuine tourist junk surrounding you. Reason enough to keep walking.). We ducked down an alleyway, up a flight of metal steps, and then came out on a roof with a view of most of the city - including the Dome of the Rock, El Aqsa Mosque, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of the Redeemer, and the Western Wall.
Ian also pointed out the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethesmane, and some of the Moslem areas of the outlying city. All of Jerusalem was laid out around us.
(Note to travelers – if you go to Jerusalem, use a professional guide for part of the trip if at all possible. They will take you places and tell you history much more easily than any guidebook can. It’s also interesting how many signs are tri-lingual – in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Not all signs are in English though, so it’s not an easy city to get around.)
We then went down to the Wall again, but there was a totally different vibe than from the night before. First, there were many more people there – but our guides allowed us to skip past the security lines (sort of like FastPass at Disney, but yet somehow different too!). Secondly, there were a number of bar mitzah ceremonies going on at the Wall – so there was singing and chanting; the joyous noise of celebration. It was also not nearly as formal feeling as the night before – a wider range of people were at the Wall.
(Interestingly, Israel is a very open society, but men and women must go to separated parts of the Wall, so the bar mitzah celebrations would be held at the wall between the men’s part of the wall and women’s part of the wall so the women could watch, sing, chant, and throw candy – it’s likely they have other roles in the ceremony, but I’m not an expert, so don’t take that as an exhaustive listing.)
We then went next door – still along the wall – and entered what Ian called the most important archaeological site in Israel. We saw the ancient baths, similar to what Mary used prior to entering the temple, as well as the remains of the arch. We then went around to side and sat on the steps that Jesus and others walked up to enter the Temple. All the while, Ian offered us a combination history lesson, Biblical perspective, and insight into why Jerusalem is so important to Jews, Christians, and Moslems alike. He provides a perspective that is not judgemental, and weaves in both stories from the Old and New Testament to weave a tapestry about what we are seeing – both now and in Biblical times.
We exited the city via the Dung Gate (I suppose I need to track down the etymology of that particular name) and boarded the bus for lunch. Yes, all of that was done in just one morning.
Life Is Old Here
Our first meeting was during dinner Sunday night at the hotel, shortly after our arrival. We met with Dr. Einat Wilf, a Labor candidate in the recent elections. She also serves as a policy and strategy consultant for the party. If just one Labor member choose not to serve (a distinct possibility as of this writing), she would be elevated to the Knesset – sort of like the last baseball player sent down to AAA – also likely to be first brought back up.
(Briefly, Labor was THE dominant party in Israel for the first 30 years of its founding, but as it has become the lead party of the Doves, has fallen onto hard times, holding barely ten percent of the seats in the Knesset.)
She was very frank about the problems facing the party, and the dinner was delicious. Afterwards, a large group of us decided to go for a walk. (As the Iron Tourist, there was no way I was simply going to bed or to the hotel bar without spending time walking around the city my first night there!). Apparently, in previous years you could not go out without security, but the security fence has made life much safer.
So we wandered up King David Street, walked another half block, and then walked through the Jaffa Gate into the Old City. (The rest of Jerusalem is relatively new). Marilyn didn’t want us going through the markets, so we wandered some of the winding, twisting pathways through the Armenian Quarter and then the Jewish Quarter before reaching the Western Wall. (Note – I always thought it was called the Wailing Wall, but apparently that ended with the Six Day War in 1967).
Wandering through the Old City at night is quite inspiring (we were told to never go in the Moslem Quarter at night). There were times when you felt transported back 2,000 years, as the city was silent and dark, and the pathways led here and there, but then we would come upon the equivalent of a convenience store and be reminded that Coca-Cola is available pretty much worldwide. Suddenly we rounded a corner and came upon the lit night view of the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, and El Aqsa Mosque.
We descended down, went through security, and spent a bunch of time at the Western Wall, and I even went underneath into what is the equivalent of cavern-like libraries. Then, we re-gathered as a group and hiked back through the Old City, retracing our steps. Jersualem IS built on a hill, and after walking downhill most of the time from Jaffa Gate to the Western Wall, it was all uphill on the return from the Wall.
On the way back, we stopped at the famed King David Hotel, where several of our party had decamped for drinks. We stayed there till quite late, telling political stories and sharing impressions of the walkabout. Some of us shared some excellent Israeli Pinot Noir. The King David has a famous view of the Old City, and also has signatures of famed guests in stone tile throughout the lobby. Such great names as Churchill, Sadat, Begin, and Thatcher are there. And, then there is the comical, such as Yoko Ono (each tile square is the same size, implying some sort of equivalency that just isn’t right!).
Given that we rode to Jerusalem in the dark and had our walkabout at night, I still don’t feel as though I have a good feel for the city.
(Briefly, Labor was THE dominant party in Israel for the first 30 years of its founding, but as it has become the lead party of the Doves, has fallen onto hard times, holding barely ten percent of the seats in the Knesset.)
She was very frank about the problems facing the party, and the dinner was delicious. Afterwards, a large group of us decided to go for a walk. (As the Iron Tourist, there was no way I was simply going to bed or to the hotel bar without spending time walking around the city my first night there!). Apparently, in previous years you could not go out without security, but the security fence has made life much safer.
So we wandered up King David Street, walked another half block, and then walked through the Jaffa Gate into the Old City. (The rest of Jerusalem is relatively new). Marilyn didn’t want us going through the markets, so we wandered some of the winding, twisting pathways through the Armenian Quarter and then the Jewish Quarter before reaching the Western Wall. (Note – I always thought it was called the Wailing Wall, but apparently that ended with the Six Day War in 1967).
Wandering through the Old City at night is quite inspiring (we were told to never go in the Moslem Quarter at night). There were times when you felt transported back 2,000 years, as the city was silent and dark, and the pathways led here and there, but then we would come upon the equivalent of a convenience store and be reminded that Coca-Cola is available pretty much worldwide. Suddenly we rounded a corner and came upon the lit night view of the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, and El Aqsa Mosque.
We descended down, went through security, and spent a bunch of time at the Western Wall, and I even went underneath into what is the equivalent of cavern-like libraries. Then, we re-gathered as a group and hiked back through the Old City, retracing our steps. Jersualem IS built on a hill, and after walking downhill most of the time from Jaffa Gate to the Western Wall, it was all uphill on the return from the Wall.
On the way back, we stopped at the famed King David Hotel, where several of our party had decamped for drinks. We stayed there till quite late, telling political stories and sharing impressions of the walkabout. Some of us shared some excellent Israeli Pinot Noir. The King David has a famous view of the Old City, and also has signatures of famed guests in stone tile throughout the lobby. Such great names as Churchill, Sadat, Begin, and Thatcher are there. And, then there is the comical, such as Yoko Ono (each tile square is the same size, implying some sort of equivalency that just isn’t right!).
Given that we rode to Jerusalem in the dark and had our walkabout at night, I still don’t feel as though I have a good feel for the city.
Like a Stranger In A Strange Land
It seems like it’s been night for two days. And that’s finally over. It’s nearly 7:30 am Mondayy morning in Jerusalem – which means it is 1:30 am Monday morning in Virginia.
While most of the last two days has been taken up with traveling, it’s still been an eventful time. I am here as a guest of the American Israeli Education Foundation. The AIEF is affiliated with AIPAC, and sponsors trips of influential Americans (and, apparently me) so that we can both see the country and learn more about the unique challenges facing our strong ally.
This is a trip featuring twelve consultants. The Dems are Maura Dougherty, Jim Duffy, Maren Hesla, Tom King, Martha McKenna, Leigh Garland, and Ed Peavy. The GOPers are Aaron Liebowitz, Caryn Eggeraat, Chip Saltsman, Rob Stutzman, and myself.
We are being shepherded around by Marilyn Rosenthal from AIPAC in DC, Tom Sawicki of AIPAC/Israel, and Ian Stern, our American born/Israeli citizen Tour Guide/archaeologist. We also have a security person assigned to hang with us, but he doesn’t have an AK 47 at the ready, and nor is he constantly smoking cigarettes and mumbling about how he can kill a man with a quick move from his pinky, so maybe not every spy book is exactly true to life. But, there’s still a week left.
Drawn together by an interest in politics and life, coupled with a willingness to have some drinks and crack jokes/tell stories, the group already is getting along well – except when I had to threaten Chip and Aaron in the Atlanta T.G.I.F.’s with a fork in the eye if they continued to talk about duck hunting. Caryn and Maren were relieved (not that there was no violence, but that I figured out how to escalate close enough to violence to end the tiresome duck discussion!).
After we all enjoyed a good night’s sleep on the Delta flight over from Atlanta (a shout out to my new friend Ambien!), we landed in Tel Aviv shortly before dusk. Maura had recently been to Iraq for an NDI trip, so she was brought in for additional questioning (apparently, the “I”s have it – if you’ve been to Israel, it’s probably harder to get into Iraq or Iran. I’m guessing an “Iran” stamp on your passport raises red flags in Israel or Iraq. And Indonesia? The mind spins at the possibilities.) Anyhow, after a brief separation when the rest of took our chartered bus from the Airport, across the coastal plane, up into the foothills, and into the hills of Jerusalem, we were all reunited at the highly rated Inbal hotel.
Whoops – time to get dressed and run to breakfast (Yes, I am blogging in my underwear, but I thought that was the point!).
While most of the last two days has been taken up with traveling, it’s still been an eventful time. I am here as a guest of the American Israeli Education Foundation. The AIEF is affiliated with AIPAC, and sponsors trips of influential Americans (and, apparently me) so that we can both see the country and learn more about the unique challenges facing our strong ally.
This is a trip featuring twelve consultants. The Dems are Maura Dougherty, Jim Duffy, Maren Hesla, Tom King, Martha McKenna, Leigh Garland, and Ed Peavy. The GOPers are Aaron Liebowitz, Caryn Eggeraat, Chip Saltsman, Rob Stutzman, and myself.
We are being shepherded around by Marilyn Rosenthal from AIPAC in DC, Tom Sawicki of AIPAC/Israel, and Ian Stern, our American born/Israeli citizen Tour Guide/archaeologist. We also have a security person assigned to hang with us, but he doesn’t have an AK 47 at the ready, and nor is he constantly smoking cigarettes and mumbling about how he can kill a man with a quick move from his pinky, so maybe not every spy book is exactly true to life. But, there’s still a week left.
Drawn together by an interest in politics and life, coupled with a willingness to have some drinks and crack jokes/tell stories, the group already is getting along well – except when I had to threaten Chip and Aaron in the Atlanta T.G.I.F.’s with a fork in the eye if they continued to talk about duck hunting. Caryn and Maren were relieved (not that there was no violence, but that I figured out how to escalate close enough to violence to end the tiresome duck discussion!).
After we all enjoyed a good night’s sleep on the Delta flight over from Atlanta (a shout out to my new friend Ambien!), we landed in Tel Aviv shortly before dusk. Maura had recently been to Iraq for an NDI trip, so she was brought in for additional questioning (apparently, the “I”s have it – if you’ve been to Israel, it’s probably harder to get into Iraq or Iran. I’m guessing an “Iran” stamp on your passport raises red flags in Israel or Iraq. And Indonesia? The mind spins at the possibilities.) Anyhow, after a brief separation when the rest of took our chartered bus from the Airport, across the coastal plane, up into the foothills, and into the hills of Jerusalem, we were all reunited at the highly rated Inbal hotel.
Whoops – time to get dressed and run to breakfast (Yes, I am blogging in my underwear, but I thought that was the point!).
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