Wednesday, January 20, 2016

OMG -- Penguins, Penguins, Penguins -- Part Tres

It's one thing to see three penguins in New Zealand and it is another to walk around on an Antarctic island with thousands of penguins.

It's one thing to see many African penguins outside of Cape Town and it is another to walk amongst Gentoo and Chinstrap with penguins in all directions.

Look, being at the bottom of the world right now, I'm lucky to have internet at all, but it's a shame I can't post a ton of pictures because there are so many great ones.

After cruising all day, and spotting whales, an hourglass dolphin, albatrosses, petrels, and other seabirds, we made it to Barrientos Island in the South Shetlands around 5pm.

First we went slowly around an amazing iceberg that had an arch that looked ready to tumble into the sea at any moment.  There was also an ice cave that was beyond blue, with waves slamming into it.  On the back, more flat side of the iceberg, a bunch of penguins were hanging out.  Not sure what they were doing out in the Drake Passage, but it's a penguin's life.  I'm loading some of those photos to Facebook right now.

The day passed more quickly than the previous.  The Drake Passage was much calmer, and we were moving at a good pass.  More importantly, Carol was over her seasickness and we were able to anticipate the landing.

Nat Geo naturalist Tom Ritchie presented a very interesting look at the White Continent.  One thing he said struck me -- Antarctica is the largest wilderness in the world.  Ian Strachan did a very helpful presentation on better using iPhone photo features (including editing) that was very helpful.  Now that Carol and I are iPhone photo experts, you'll probably see us posting more photos on Facebook!   And there is the added bonus that we can both operate an iPhone camera, whilst our kids still can't handle a typewriter!  (That will set them back into today's business environment.  Ha!)

The expedition to the island was beyond cool.  First we geared up -- I wore my ski base layer, regular pants, and thin waterproof pants.  The muck boots with two pairs of socks (one thin, one thick), and then five layers -- an undershirt, regular shirt, fleece, and the two layer parka that comes with the trip (which is why any photos of people on the island look like an Antarctic chain gang on work detail!).

Then we went out back, where penguins were leaping out of the too and fro, with the islands and icebergs all around.  After stepping in the bucket of disinfectant, we boarded a zodiac boat, which were zipping back and forth to Barrientos Island quite quickly.

As we got closer to the rocky beach, we were led in by a group of penguins swimming through the water, leaping out of the water like a team of dolphins pulling a boat.  Getting on and off the zodiac was quite easy -- these guys at Nat Geo/Lindblad sure know what they are doing.

There were penguins all around us.  Gentoos and Chinstrap penguins.  Behind us, above us, in front of us.  The rule is to stay 15 feet away, and sometimes it was hard to do, as occasionally a lone penguin would walk right past you, paying no mind.  We moved slowly, drinking in the scene.  The island had some pretty up and down areas, and everywhere you looked was another photo opportunity and a shot at redemption (a little Paul Simon lyrics there).

I got some great photos of penguins and their babies tucked underneath them, or feeding, or just hanging out.  Then there are the photos with penguins in the foreground and icebergs in the background.  Penguins in the foreground and the Nat Geo ship, the Orion, in the background.

We walked up and over the saddle, in no hurry -- watching penguins fight and feed and call into the air.  Penguins up on top of the little mountain (we weren't allowed to climb up it, but no need -- so many penguins everywhere.  Some were walking up through the snow on the hill on the way down to the other beach.

The penguins on the beach weren't the only entertainment.  There was a juvenile elephant seal lying on the beach -- it was estimated by the naturalists to be 400 pounds -- meaning it still has 1600 pounds or so to gain as an adult!  I got some great close-ups of him -- he was totally unperturbed by the flock of orange coats gathered round to photograph him.

Further down the beach, there was some little peaks where I got some more great photos of penguins (check Facebook -- easier to load photos there than on the blog right now.)  In the water there was a small ice chunk -- maybe 20 feet long, 6 feet high, and 10 feet deep (from to back).  Penguins were climbing on the ice pack and jumping off.

Reluctantly, after about two hours on land that seemed like 15 minutes, we reboarded the zodiac to go back to the boat.  Lucky for us, we got waved off by the boat (well, by staff -- the boat doesn't do human things!), so our zodiac driver took us for a spin in that bay past some of the bluest icebergs I've ever seen.  Once we got back, it was scrub down time, then drinks, and then dinner as we basked in the glow of our expedition.

Now it is time to go look at more tabular icebergs.

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