Sunday, July 31, 2022

A Palace Fit For The Prince of Northern Italy

Okay, so I’m a bit vague on the actual name of the title of the Borromeo family.  I think it was Prince, but of what?  I suppose over the years, as the borders changed, the title changed constantly.  I also saw references to Duke, and maybe something else I don't even remember now.

The family still owns Isola Bella and Isola Madre.  I’m not sure about Pescatori, but we ended up not going there because of the heat, so it doesn’t matter much.

Max took us to the north end of the Isola Bella, which turned out perfect because it was right near the entrance to the palace and far away from the souvenir stands and likely crappy restaurants.  

Oddly, we didn’t go into the Palace right away, as we were both enjoying the northern tip of the island and trying to rehydrate.

Carol on the Northern end of Isola Bella

Isola Madre from Isola Bella.

A villa on the Western shore of the Lake,
photo taken from Isola Belle.

The decorations really go for Baroque.  The family still uses the palace a couple of weeks during the summer, but I saw no evidence that they were in residence during the five days we stayed nearby.

The palace is huge and impressive.  After going up the stairs past the stucco crests of Italy’s top families, including the Medici (balls) and the Barberini (bees), we spotted the Borromeo’s crest featuring a unicorn (a theme repeated at spots throughout the palace and gardens).

A heavy hitter family crest.

The Borromeo family crest.

The family symbol -- a unicorn.

Then we wandered through the picture gallery, which has 130 restored 16th-century paintings from the family’s private collection, which even outnumbers our paintings.  

Most family portraits are larger than this one.
But I was quite struck by this, because it
is completely different than the average
Borromeo family portrait painting.

Chandelier, plus part of the picture gallery.  Impressive ceiling.


The Borromeo throne.

The throne room is stunning, the Queen’s double room is impressive (maybe they were called Kings?), and the dining room is surprisingly understated.  The most incredible room in the Palace is the stuccoed grand hall boasting an 80 foot high dome.

This guy is intense.

Queen's double room.

I gotta hand it to the sculptor.

A cheerful cherub.

The family symbol.

Elton John once coveted this piano, which
is in the room of the failed 1935
Stresa Conference, which sought
to stop World War II.  It didn't work.

Next came the music room, which was the site of the 1935 Stresa Conference, where Mussolini met with British and French diplomats in an attempt to keep Germany from starting WWII.  Spoiler alert, the attempt failed to stop the war, largely because shortly afterwards, Mussolini invaded Ethiopia and joined the Axis, um, axis.

(Editor: And to think that at one point in your youth, you wanted to a historian.  Blogger: How did you know that. . .do you have insider information or something?)

We also saw Napoleon’s bedroom when he visited for one night in 1797.  Then, back down stairs to see more of the family’s creepy marionettes.  (Think of the Von Tropp family puppet show, but half of the puppets looking like Chucky.)

Cool view from a window.

Napoleon's bed.  He had zero 
chance of hitting his head
on the canopy.

Carol and I sped through the creepy marionettes.  (Editor: Why do you always include “creepy” in front of “marionettes.”  Blogger: Have you seen some of these things?)

Next comes a multi-room grotto, designed to provide relief on hot days.  (The grotto didn’t beat this heat, he writes from personal experience.)  Then there is a hall with 16th-century Flemish tapestries. 

A full tapestry.

An ostrich eating grapes.

A battle royale between a unicorn
and a couple of big cats!
Perhaps lions?

We went out into the gardens, which are beautiful and they went for Baroque.  (Editor: You don’t have to make that joke EVERY time you mention Baroque.  Blogger: Hey, if it ain’t Baroque, don’t fix it!  Editor: Certainly you are the first person to ever use that joke!)

Carol sat on a shaded bench while I went off to explore the sumptuous gardens.  Although these are fancier gardens, I still prefer the variety found on Isole Madra.

The center-piece of the gardens.

These fish were playing it coy.



Okay, so that's a cool shot.

I like the trees in the foreground serving
as a frame for the escarpment.

And then it was time meet Max and the boat.  We ended up having to go past the souvenir stands, but weren’t the least bit tempted.

Our man Max and his boat.

The Palace.

The Island with the
mountain behind it.

We drove into Stresa for a late lunch, and then came back to the hotel. That afternoon I worked upstairs in our suite, while Carol napped to recover from her losing battle from the heat.  

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