I already mentioned Botin in Madrid, but I want to cover some other very good restaurants we have had dinner at first. Where we eat lunch doesn't really matter, so much so that I don't even keep track of the names of the restaurants.
And, I don't post pictures of my food. More power to those who do, but that's not how I roll.
Why do I write about the restaurants? Well, believe or not, I get letters. (Editor's Note: Emails! Writer: I was channeling Perry Como. Editor: That will mark you as hip among the all important "18 year old to not quite dead" demographic! Writer: Hey, it's hip to be square!).
Anyhoo, those emails ask for suggestions on trips. I never really focused on restaurants until 2019 Barcelona, but I try to do a little more in case someone asks for information on a place we've traveled to. So, here goes:
Madrid -- La Manduca de Azagra: Recommended by one of the top notch political journalists and man-about-town, Ron Brownstein, this was worth the nearly mile walk. Ron raved about it, and Ron is rarely, if ever, wrong. It was fabulous. We shared both a salmon appetizer and white asparagus (apparently trendy at that time of year as it is fresh). Carol had the Corderico en chilindrón which is milk-fed lamb "en chilindrón" (with tomato and dried red pepper sauce). I had the Rape a la brasa, grilled monkfish. I ordered one of my favorite bottles of Ribero del Duero at a price at least half of the price of what you would pay at a restaurant in the States.
(The price to quality ratio of wine at restaurants in Spain is outstanding. Take advantage of the pricing and try wines from lesser known Spanish wine regions. Editor's Note: Ribera del Duero isn't exactly lesser known. Write: #True. However, in my defense it is one of my favorite wines and was too affordable NOT to order!)
Verdict: Highly recommend.
Toledo -- El Botero Taberna: I don't remember how I sussed this one out, but it is fantastic! It's primarily Spanish, but with some Asian fusion thrown in. It's a bit of a hole in the wall at first glance, but trust me on this, you won't be disappointed. Once we were seated and looked at the modern art, I realized it's a cooler place than I am normally allowed, but since I didn't point that out, they let us stay.
Carol had the best gin and tonic she's ever had at a restaurant, and then we shared a nice wine at a great price point! Our Toledo guide, Javi, told us they are famous for their cocktails. I had a great beer to start. Q: What made it great? A: It was cold, and that's exactly what I needed then. With dinner we split a bottle of Toro (no bull, we did!).
Carol and I split the duck dumplings (DUMPLINGS DE PATO CON HOISIN DE MANGO, PICO DE GALLO Y ALIOLI DE LIMA) and, as you can tell from the menu cut and paste I did, it was more than just duck dumplings (which would be enough by themselves).
For the main course, Carol had the presa (prey) in a stew with some Asian flavoring, and I had the secreto.
Verdict: Highly recommend.
And this is where I wax rhapsodic about Spanish grilling pork from Iberico pigs. There are three main cuts in Spain that is hard to find in the United States -- secreto, presa, and pluma. They are all fantastic. I order them online, from either La Tienda or Campo Grande. People who join us for dinner when I grill them are always delighted by just how tasty they are. They are far superior in taste and quality than regular old pork, just as Spanish jamon is head and shoulders above regular ham in taste. I can not begin to describe just how good they are -- so flavorful and juicy. (Sorry, Maria and Van, Spanish grilling pork does not need to be cooked until blackened and burnt, medium rare works great). When it comes up in conversation, Spaniards are surprised Carol and I know about the three cuts of Spanish grilling pork.
End of Spanish grilling pork sermon. (Editor's Note: Now I want some!)
Toledo -- La Orza: We learned in Stresa, Italy, that Michelin Guide restaurants are good choices, because the food and service is excellent, but without the high cost of a Michelin Star restaurant. La Orza is also a Michelin Guide restaurant, and proved to be delicious. We sat out on their beautiful stone patio and enjoyed the evening and the meal.
We spent some time talking with two Americans who were in Toledo for a business conference that they also turned into series of bike tours as well. One was a professor at UCLA, while the other worked in Madison, Wisconsin and had some connection to the University there. But they also were in private business, so it was interesting chatting with them.
We started with the cheese board, a great bottle of Ribera del Duero for a significantly lower price than I've bought it in the States. For the main course, Carol had Bacalao (Atlantic cod) with a red velvet beet root glaze. I had the venado (venison). Dinner was fantastic, and relaxing. The service was great, and we chatted several times with the son of the owner.
Verdict: High recommend.
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