Okay -- perhaps that's an exaggeration to say that political consultants hitting new lows and engage in mudslinging is a news flash (Editor's note: strike the word "perhaps").
But after a quick trip to the Masada gift shop (slogan: "You'd be committing suicide if you don't buy anything here!"), we took a short drive along the shores of the Dead Sea to a resort area.
The shores of the Dead Sea is the lowest point on Earth (nearly as low as a US political campaign can reach!). We pulled into a nice resort in an area that has a slew of resorts (after miles, and miles of nothing but the occasional oasis). We were able to change in their locker rooms.
The Dead Sea is a popular weekend trip, particularly for those seeking spa treatment or skin care (people with psoriasis often have it "cured" for months on end after a visit). The resorts have pools, spas, spa treatments, and nice restaurants. Given the desert climate and summer time heat, the only thing missing are casinos (hmmm, I sense a bipartisan business opportunity!).
We changed, and some of the folks bought bags of mud for twelve shekels (or $3) for mudbathing (go ahead and laugh -- you would think consultants would have their own mud handy at all times). Ed, Tom King, and I were the first three out in the water. It wasn't what we expected (although, frankly, I'm not what we expected).
After walking on a rubber ramp to protect our feet from the hailstone sized pieces of salt at the bottom, we gently flopped on our backs and floated. Due to the hypersalinization, you can't not float (I know, a double negative, but it's just a blog, not an English paper!). We found that it was hard to stand upright in the water -- my feet would immediately bob to the surface. When people got out of the water, some would be covered with salt, while others not so much.
Others joined us, included some who had muddied up. The water was relatively warm. After a bit, I was cajoled into putting on some mud (I have no pictures, so there will be none on the blog). Jim, Aaron, and I smeared mud all over ourselves (the three of us are pretty comfortable with our heterosexual selves, as we also smeared on each other's backs and shoulders). Aaron and I put some on our faces, and Jim went 90% commando, smearing all over his face. (Ummm, 100% commando would have been too much to contemplate, but Jim did keep his bathing suit on). Others had muddied up to, but I'm not sure they were quite as entertaining -- although Chip gave us a run for the money.
Like a dipped Dairy Queen cone (and we are pretty much vanilla white), the mud dried and hardened in the sun. Once back in the water, the mud slowly came off, making our skin silky smooth (again, that's written as a heterosexual married guy with three children).
Ed had ignored the warnings not to shave, as he did shave his neck, and that provided some stinging. But that was an Einstein move compared to Jim and Aaron dunking their muddy faces in the water despite repeated warnings not to do so. (As children, they liked wetting their fingers and sticking them in electrical outlets). Ian and Marilyn's repeated predictions of pain came true for them. As John Madden once said, "Irony can be so ironic" -- a TV guy and a mail guy stung by their own mudslinging. I had the good sense to simply shower the mud off my face.
We then enjoy a Sabbath buffet lunch after others had hit the spa and Lee had a massage. We were all feeling pretty resorty. On the way back, some spotted an Ibex on a hill. We also caught a stunning view of the Old City after the bus went through the Mount of Olives tunnel.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
"This Unique, Beautiful Life"
The title of the last of my third "Riffs" on the Israel trip was inspired by our hostess at the kibbutz we had lunch at on the Golan Heights (see the post about the "terrorist" attack). She was talking about her life since late 1960s on the kibbutz -- the challenges, threats, upsides, and hope of their lives. She talked about how much "this unique, beautiful life" meant to her -- and it stuck with me as a good description of how many of the Israelis we talked to felt about their lives.
I've been back in the States for 48 hours now, just two posts away from finishing the blog. I'm struck most by the diversity of the people, the land, and their lives under the most trying of circumstances. All throughout history, people have been resilient. However, no nation has been as resilient under such odds and such firepower as Israel.
It's a country I definitely want to go back to and take my family. It may just be with my wife Carol in ten years or so, or maybe all five of us can carve out time. If you haven't been, there's no reason not to. I never felt unsafe, although it was clear there were places where we shouldn't/couldn't go. That's not to say something might not happen -- of course something can happen, but other types of danger lurks everywhere in the world, including in the U.S. A suicide bomber isn't any more or less random than a nut with a gun who shoots up a nursing home (as happened in NC while we were returning from Israel).
Okay, there is a difference -- Israel is constantly under siege, and the U.S. generally is not (I note "generally" as to acknowledge the threat of terrorism on US soil). But, if you want to visit a place of literally Biblical proportions in history, beauty, and resilience, go to Israel.
A few other notes:
I've been back in the States for 48 hours now, just two posts away from finishing the blog. I'm struck most by the diversity of the people, the land, and their lives under the most trying of circumstances. All throughout history, people have been resilient. However, no nation has been as resilient under such odds and such firepower as Israel.
It's a country I definitely want to go back to and take my family. It may just be with my wife Carol in ten years or so, or maybe all five of us can carve out time. If you haven't been, there's no reason not to. I never felt unsafe, although it was clear there were places where we shouldn't/couldn't go. That's not to say something might not happen -- of course something can happen, but other types of danger lurks everywhere in the world, including in the U.S. A suicide bomber isn't any more or less random than a nut with a gun who shoots up a nursing home (as happened in NC while we were returning from Israel).
Okay, there is a difference -- Israel is constantly under siege, and the U.S. generally is not (I note "generally" as to acknowledge the threat of terrorism on US soil). But, if you want to visit a place of literally Biblical proportions in history, beauty, and resilience, go to Israel.
A few other notes:
- I've said it before, but the food was fabulous. Mediterrean at its heart, the diversity of options was great.
- Okay, so while on the trip I totally blanked on links -- I will at some point go back and add clickable links to the blog. My bad.
- The north of Israel ranks among the most beautiful places on earth.
- More countries need a program like AIEF puts on. I'm just sayin' I'll be happy to volunteer for those trips too!
- As Rob Stutzman's former boss would say, "I'll be back."
Ian Talking, Us Listening
Despite how he talks with his hands, there's no truth to the rumor that he's actually Italian-American.
"A Nation of Bad-Asses"
Relatively early on, one of the group quipped that Israel is "a nation of bad-asses." Given their embattled security situation, and the need for nearly all to spend time in the military and then the reserves, this is definitely not a country to be messed with (which is why Anwar Sadat went from war to peace).
There's no better proof of that than where we went Saturday morning -- to Masada. To get there, we drove through what we are told is the smallest desert in the world -- the Judean Desert. It was there that we actually saw the desert that we thought was more geographically dominant. We saw camels roaming around, Bedouin shanty towns, and some very stark and beautiful terrain.
We passed within a distance of the Palestinian town of Jericho (where as yet, no archaeological evidence of tumbling walls have been found, but, as Ian stresses, just because it doesn't exist doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Apparently, until the Second Intifada, there was a thriving casino in Jericho where Palestinians would work and Jews would drive over from Jerusalem/Israel to gamble. That source of jobs and revenue has been closed since. That fact that it existed at all is further evidence of what a long, strange trip it's been for the last 60 years, where borders and travel patterns shift often.
As we drove down to Masada, between the cliffs to our right (East) and the Dead Sea to our left (ergo West), and Jordan perched just across the Dead Sea, the land took on an eerily beautiful quality, with the occasional oasis intermixed. At Qumran, Ian pointed out some of the caves in which the Dead Sea scrolls were found.
Masada is the genesis (no pun intended, well -- maybe intended) of the "nation of bad-asses" (btw, "bad-asses" should be pronounced as one word, as a pause in-between implies something derogatory not meant at all). Rather than recap the history of Masada (see the link if you need it), I'll focus on our experience (which turned out better for us than it did for the Jews holed up here against the Romans).
We didn't have time for the 45 minute hike straight up the Snake Path (when I go next time), so we took the cable car up the cliffs. It's a little freaky walking the hanging ramp (with a pretty healthy drop below). When we got there, Ian gave us an in-depth briefing on the history of Masada, and why it was built.
(In the future, Ian will be able to be purchased as a Star Wars like recording, and then your droid will beam him into the air and he'll brief people without even having to be there. Remember the part where R2D2 shows Princess Leia beseeching for help? Just like that. The future will be so cool.)
We then walked around grounds, including the bath house and parts of Herod's palace. The views were staggering -- as stunning as the stories of Masada. It is now thought that the whole story of mass suicide is a bit of an exaggeration, but did happen on some scale. It is believed by historians that the Romans killed some Jews as well, but let's not mess with Hollywood.
Ian gave us a good look at how the water system worked to collect plenty of H2O -- an ingenious system to capture enough to survive a long time.
Pictures don't do Masada justice -- it is a place that has to be seen to be believed. Perched high about the Dead Sea on a rocky cliff, you can look down and see the outline of the siege wall and Roman forts.
There's no better proof of that than where we went Saturday morning -- to Masada. To get there, we drove through what we are told is the smallest desert in the world -- the Judean Desert. It was there that we actually saw the desert that we thought was more geographically dominant. We saw camels roaming around, Bedouin shanty towns, and some very stark and beautiful terrain.
We passed within a distance of the Palestinian town of Jericho (where as yet, no archaeological evidence of tumbling walls have been found, but, as Ian stresses, just because it doesn't exist doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Apparently, until the Second Intifada, there was a thriving casino in Jericho where Palestinians would work and Jews would drive over from Jerusalem/Israel to gamble. That source of jobs and revenue has been closed since. That fact that it existed at all is further evidence of what a long, strange trip it's been for the last 60 years, where borders and travel patterns shift often.
As we drove down to Masada, between the cliffs to our right (East) and the Dead Sea to our left (ergo West), and Jordan perched just across the Dead Sea, the land took on an eerily beautiful quality, with the occasional oasis intermixed. At Qumran, Ian pointed out some of the caves in which the Dead Sea scrolls were found.
Masada is the genesis (no pun intended, well -- maybe intended) of the "nation of bad-asses" (btw, "bad-asses" should be pronounced as one word, as a pause in-between implies something derogatory not meant at all). Rather than recap the history of Masada (see the link if you need it), I'll focus on our experience (which turned out better for us than it did for the Jews holed up here against the Romans).
We didn't have time for the 45 minute hike straight up the Snake Path (when I go next time), so we took the cable car up the cliffs. It's a little freaky walking the hanging ramp (with a pretty healthy drop below). When we got there, Ian gave us an in-depth briefing on the history of Masada, and why it was built.
(In the future, Ian will be able to be purchased as a Star Wars like recording, and then your droid will beam him into the air and he'll brief people without even having to be there. Remember the part where R2D2 shows Princess Leia beseeching for help? Just like that. The future will be so cool.)
We then walked around grounds, including the bath house and parts of Herod's palace. The views were staggering -- as stunning as the stories of Masada. It is now thought that the whole story of mass suicide is a bit of an exaggeration, but did happen on some scale. It is believed by historians that the Romans killed some Jews as well, but let's not mess with Hollywood.
Ian gave us a good look at how the water system worked to collect plenty of H2O -- an ingenious system to capture enough to survive a long time.
Pictures don't do Masada justice -- it is a place that has to be seen to be believed. Perched high about the Dead Sea on a rocky cliff, you can look down and see the outline of the siege wall and Roman forts.
Sabbath Dinner
Friday night, we walked to a nearby house for Sabbath dinner with Tom Sawicki and his family. Sabbath remains a big deal even among secular Jews in Israel -- it is a quiet time to spend with friends and family, reflecting on the week. Starting befroe sundown, the country virtually shuts down -- few shops and restaurants are open, few cars are on the road.
It was a nice way to end our last full day in Israel. First, at the prompting of Tom's wife, we each shared a little more personal information about ourselves, as well as what most memorable about the week for us. We were served a fine catered meal, and everyone conversed with those around them. I talked primarily with Lee about travel, as well as with Tom's 20 year old son about his combined studies/military life (I'll say it again -- in Israel, young people have to grow up very, very fast). Further evidence of bipartisan comity (or comedy?) came when we also had a cake that some of the Dems had worked with AIEF to arrange in honor of Chip's birthday.
Because it caters to foreigners, the hotel bar was one of the few businesses still open, so we headed there (I know, shocking) to cap off the week. The bar wasn't open late, so we doubled up on our order. Once the booze ran out, we weren't ready to call it a night. So Maren tried to hunt down the key (apparently she's done that before) as we were profiles in courage and didn't lift a finger to help her. Finally one of the other members of the crew headed around the corner to the Hotel lobby and convinced (with generous tips, of course) a member of the hotel staff to open up the bar and pull out some additional Gold Star beers.
With a busy day looming, the rest of us called it a day around 1 am, although Maren and Aaron apparently got into some bottle cap flipping contest. There is no agreement between the two who won, but the rest of us agree that by not staying up an extra hours, we were the real winners of that pointless contest (Luckily for those who missed the highlights on SportsCenter, I'm sure there will be a rematch at the reunion).
It was a nice way to end our last full day in Israel. First, at the prompting of Tom's wife, we each shared a little more personal information about ourselves, as well as what most memorable about the week for us. We were served a fine catered meal, and everyone conversed with those around them. I talked primarily with Lee about travel, as well as with Tom's 20 year old son about his combined studies/military life (I'll say it again -- in Israel, young people have to grow up very, very fast). Further evidence of bipartisan comity (or comedy?) came when we also had a cake that some of the Dems had worked with AIEF to arrange in honor of Chip's birthday.
Because it caters to foreigners, the hotel bar was one of the few businesses still open, so we headed there (I know, shocking) to cap off the week. The bar wasn't open late, so we doubled up on our order. Once the booze ran out, we weren't ready to call it a night. So Maren tried to hunt down the key (apparently she's done that before) as we were profiles in courage and didn't lift a finger to help her. Finally one of the other members of the crew headed around the corner to the Hotel lobby and convinced (with generous tips, of course) a member of the hotel staff to open up the bar and pull out some additional Gold Star beers.
With a busy day looming, the rest of us called it a day around 1 am, although Maren and Aaron apparently got into some bottle cap flipping contest. There is no agreement between the two who won, but the rest of us agree that by not staying up an extra hours, we were the real winners of that pointless contest (Luckily for those who missed the highlights on SportsCenter, I'm sure there will be a rematch at the reunion).
Monday, March 30, 2009
Shared Experiences, Different Points of View
Well, we're back in the States now, and have been for more than 24 hours. I still have a few more posts to write tonight -- Sabbath dinner, Masada, the Dead Sea, and a few more riffs.
However, before I write those, just a quick acknowledgement of appreciation to the AIEF folks, as well as my fellow attendees on the trip. This blog is written by me, and from my point of view of the trip. I couldn't try to capture everything we did, everything we laughed at, and (thankfully) everything Aaron and Tom King drank.
We all had shared (albeit slightly different) experiences, and we all took different things from the trip. We had different perspectives on what was said. This blog doesn't try to cover all points of view of the people on the trip (so don't worry, Tom King, no kumbaya moments going on here!)
Instead, this blog is an attempt for me to share my experiences with family and friends, and when I read it in the future, it will trigger other memories.
However, before I write those, just a quick acknowledgement of appreciation to the AIEF folks, as well as my fellow attendees on the trip. This blog is written by me, and from my point of view of the trip. I couldn't try to capture everything we did, everything we laughed at, and (thankfully) everything Aaron and Tom King drank.
We all had shared (albeit slightly different) experiences, and we all took different things from the trip. We had different perspectives on what was said. This blog doesn't try to cover all points of view of the people on the trip (so don't worry, Tom King, no kumbaya moments going on here!)
Instead, this blog is an attempt for me to share my experiences with family and friends, and when I read it in the future, it will trigger other memories.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
An Archaeological Site
After the kibbutz, the bus driver earned our undying appreciation, because he brought us safely down one of the most dangerous switchback roads I have ever been on. It was no easy task -- at points he virtually had to stop the bus. For sport, we looked in the canyons cascading down the side of the Golan Heights and counted cars that did make the turns -- and tumbled down into the canyons. There were also a number of caves and bunkers used in the fighting. Just across the small valley is Jordanian territory.
Driving along the border with Jordan, we came to the Bet She'an Archaeological Site. Bet She'an was a city that lasted for more than 900 years at a strategically significant location before being mostly destroyed by an earthquake in 749. For more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bet_She%27an
The city reminded me a lot of Pompeii. Ian was our expert guide, showing us the baths, the main streets and shops, the (whoops, blanking on the name, but essentially the theater/stage), and the public toilets. (As an aside to my fellow travelers -- I get it, my humor at Bet She'an was a bit of a failure. Even Bob Newhart had the occasional miss.)
We could have spent more time there, but there is no question it should be on any traveler's list of things to see in Israel. And, this was right in Ian's wheelhouse, so his expert guidework here was a highlight of the trip.
Driving along the border with Jordan, we came to the Bet She'an Archaeological Site. Bet She'an was a city that lasted for more than 900 years at a strategically significant location before being mostly destroyed by an earthquake in 749. For more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bet_She%27an
The city reminded me a lot of Pompeii. Ian was our expert guide, showing us the baths, the main streets and shops, the (whoops, blanking on the name, but essentially the theater/stage), and the public toilets. (As an aside to my fellow travelers -- I get it, my humor at Bet She'an was a bit of a failure. Even Bob Newhart had the occasional miss.)
We could have spent more time there, but there is no question it should be on any traveler's list of things to see in Israel. And, this was right in Ian's wheelhouse, so his expert guidework here was a highlight of the trip.
In Which Our Heroes Survive A Terrorist Attack. Well, Sort Of.
After the Sea of Galilee, we drove up the Golan Heights. As we drove up, I remembered back to the Yom Kippur War of 1973, when the Israelis defended the territory they had captured during the Six Day War of 1967.
It's strange to see how peaceful and beautiful it is -- I half expected it to be bristling with guns. On either side of the road going up, however, there are fenced off fields with warnings about passing marked minefields (apparently a hiker wander into a minefield not to long ago and was killed by a mine). Cows occasionally bust through for greener pastures and end up as hamburger for Eagles.
As we drove along the Golan Heights, we could see into Syria. I remembered the strategic importance of the Golan from the 1973 war, and it is amazing that Israeli tanks and paratroopers were able to crush and drive back the Syrian tanks that had the terrain advantage in 1967.
Lunch was at the Kibbutz Kfar Haruv Dining Hall, perched on the edge of Golan Heights.
But first, there was a scary moment of actual danger (well, scary to Aaron, actual danger to all). While Tom Sawicki and Ian were talking about the history of the back and forth of the Golan, and how Syrians used to lob shells and sniper fire at the kibbutzs below. We were standing at the edge of the heights, when suddenly I noticed a swarm of flies of Biblical proportions heading our way. Our security team told us to duck (and by “told” I don’t mean “asked, suggested, requested, or beseeched” I mean “commanded.”) We all hit the ground and waited patiently for the huge swarm of buzzing bees (the group later dubbed the swarm "Syrian Killer Bees chanting Hizbollah slogans") that took a while to pass. While most had caught the buzz that something was up, Aaron’s first thought that there was an incoming Syrian missiles. There was no visual evidence that he wet himself.
Lunch on the kibbutz was good, and the view of the entire Galilee area was commanding and beautiful. Someone who had lived on the kibbutz since the late 1960s (when it started after the territory was conquered) talked a bit about life on the kibbutz. One regret was that we didn't get to spend enough to with her, asking questions and learning more.
It's strange to see how peaceful and beautiful it is -- I half expected it to be bristling with guns. On either side of the road going up, however, there are fenced off fields with warnings about passing marked minefields (apparently a hiker wander into a minefield not to long ago and was killed by a mine). Cows occasionally bust through for greener pastures and end up as hamburger for Eagles.
As we drove along the Golan Heights, we could see into Syria. I remembered the strategic importance of the Golan from the 1973 war, and it is amazing that Israeli tanks and paratroopers were able to crush and drive back the Syrian tanks that had the terrain advantage in 1967.
Lunch was at the Kibbutz Kfar Haruv Dining Hall, perched on the edge of Golan Heights.
But first, there was a scary moment of actual danger (well, scary to Aaron, actual danger to all). While Tom Sawicki and Ian were talking about the history of the back and forth of the Golan, and how Syrians used to lob shells and sniper fire at the kibbutzs below. We were standing at the edge of the heights, when suddenly I noticed a swarm of flies of Biblical proportions heading our way. Our security team told us to duck (and by “told” I don’t mean “asked, suggested, requested, or beseeched” I mean “commanded.”) We all hit the ground and waited patiently for the huge swarm of buzzing bees (the group later dubbed the swarm "Syrian Killer Bees chanting Hizbollah slogans") that took a while to pass. While most had caught the buzz that something was up, Aaron’s first thought that there was an incoming Syrian missiles. There was no visual evidence that he wet himself.
Lunch on the kibbutz was good, and the view of the entire Galilee area was commanding and beautiful. Someone who had lived on the kibbutz since the late 1960s (when it started after the territory was conquered) talked a bit about life on the kibbutz. One regret was that we didn't get to spend enough to with her, asking questions and learning more.
Live Your Best Life!
There was time for some fun in Galilee -- the trip wasn't all done in a contemplative state. Thursday night after free time, we went to dinner to a restaurant caled Decks right on the Sea of Galilee. The town of Tiberias is a beach/resort town – restaurants, hotels, guest houses. The wine was flowing and the meat was being slung. (Poor Chip was still skipping dinner – he was the brink of health recovery, but not quite there year.). Dinner speakers have been great, but it was also nice not to have one that night – the group talked in clusters, and since I was at a key pass in between two groups, I bounced back and forth between a group of the guys and a group of the women.
(A note on Israeli wine. I enjoyed ever bottle I had there – and we drank a range. I guess I was expecting the Boone’s Farm equivalent of badly done kosher wine we have in the states. It will be interesting to find out if good Israeli wine is available in the states, or if they keep the good stuff in their country and send us the swill. A post-trip research project! I am not a wine snob – I’ve had plenty of good bottles under $10, and had some for much more that I didn’t care for. My motto is drink what you like – if you don’t like it, don’t drink it – and if you do like it, go for it. I found plenty to like.)
Anyhow, we headed back to the Maagan kibbutz hotel and gathered at the bar. The bartender said she wasn’t staying open much later. She was immediately tipped $20. More money flowed her way. So, when I went to bed a little after 1 am, the bar that was closing at 11am was still going strong. A group of political consultants had provided their own significant stimulus package to the Southern Shores of Galilee.
Apparently a number of folks, decided to stay up order more beer, and then wander down to the Sea of Galilee. Between Aaron, Tom King, Moira (who lost her purse for a while), and Ed (if missing anyone, that can be correct for the blog).
It happened to be the start of Daylight Savings Time in the country – so the group got even less sleep. Ed had breakfast while wearing sunglasses (yes, inside). We gathered like obedient children afraid of Marilyn’s wrath at the bus at the appointed time of 8:30 am. Except Tom and Aaron. Duffy and I gleefully went off to pound on their doors. After a bit, Aaron threw open the door – informed it was “8:35", he noted “you’re kidding me.” Gleefully I showed him my watch. "Expletive deleted," was his next comment. Thankfully hAaron wore his pink Izod shirt and boxers, or he’d have been even more comical than the dazed and confused look he pro-offered.
King was even harder to wake, but at least when he slouched up to the bus, he was making a strong statement about how he felt – wearing an “Oprah” hat with the slogan “Live Your Best Life.” Those of us who hadn’t part of the foolish 4:30 am crowd were partly relieved at our own good “discipline” (used in a relative sense given our night) and partly wishing we had been there. Kind of.
(A note on Israeli wine. I enjoyed ever bottle I had there – and we drank a range. I guess I was expecting the Boone’s Farm equivalent of badly done kosher wine we have in the states. It will be interesting to find out if good Israeli wine is available in the states, or if they keep the good stuff in their country and send us the swill. A post-trip research project! I am not a wine snob – I’ve had plenty of good bottles under $10, and had some for much more that I didn’t care for. My motto is drink what you like – if you don’t like it, don’t drink it – and if you do like it, go for it. I found plenty to like.)
Anyhow, we headed back to the Maagan kibbutz hotel and gathered at the bar. The bartender said she wasn’t staying open much later. She was immediately tipped $20. More money flowed her way. So, when I went to bed a little after 1 am, the bar that was closing at 11am was still going strong. A group of political consultants had provided their own significant stimulus package to the Southern Shores of Galilee.
Apparently a number of folks, decided to stay up order more beer, and then wander down to the Sea of Galilee. Between Aaron, Tom King, Moira (who lost her purse for a while), and Ed (if missing anyone, that can be correct for the blog).
It happened to be the start of Daylight Savings Time in the country – so the group got even less sleep. Ed had breakfast while wearing sunglasses (yes, inside). We gathered like obedient children afraid of Marilyn’s wrath at the bus at the appointed time of 8:30 am. Except Tom and Aaron. Duffy and I gleefully went off to pound on their doors. After a bit, Aaron threw open the door – informed it was “8:35", he noted “you’re kidding me.” Gleefully I showed him my watch. "Expletive deleted," was his next comment. Thankfully hAaron wore his pink Izod shirt and boxers, or he’d have been even more comical than the dazed and confused look he pro-offered.
King was even harder to wake, but at least when he slouched up to the bus, he was making a strong statement about how he felt – wearing an “Oprah” hat with the slogan “Live Your Best Life.” Those of us who hadn’t part of the foolish 4:30 am crowd were partly relieved at our own good “discipline” (used in a relative sense given our night) and partly wishing we had been there. Kind of.
Blessed Are the Political Consultants, For We Really Need It
Once Tom and Aaron were groggily on the bus, we head back across the Jordan River North to the Mount of Beatitudes, Capernaum, and the area of the miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.
The Mount of Beatitudes was marginally disappointing to me. It's the site of the Sermon on the Mount, but there is a church, a gift shop, and some other buildings on the site. I was envisioning a quiet hill with grass and rocks (like in the time of Jesus). Certainly all around the Sea of Galilee, including the hills on either side, there are beautiful hills that are more evocative of the time He was alive and preaching.
However, the next two stops on the Jesus Day were much more moving. We went to Capernaum, also known as the town of Jesus (there are numerous references to Jesus preaching and spending time in Capernaum). We saw the remains of the town, including Peter's house and two of the earliest Christian Churches (built on top of each other).We toured the town’s synagogue. Ian weaved together history, archaeology, and religion in a non-judgmental, fair way. He talked about the miracles of Jesus without debating whether or not they happened. His perspective is that history and archaeology go hand-in-glove when learning about religion. Miracles he ascribes to a matter of faith.
From there, we went to a seaside location where it is believed that the miracle of the loaves and fishes occured along the Sea of Galilee -- with a beautiful small church built around a rock that Jesus may have used during the miracle. We then went down to the water, took off our shoes, and rolled up our pants and waded into the Sea of Galilee. We filled bottles up with water from the Sea of Galilee. No other groups/people were there yet, so it was a very peaceful moment.
Oh, and then Jim saw a dead catfish in the reeds, so he went and picked it up. Tom Sawicki was cautioning not to pick it up, but Tom doesn't understand the life of a Louisiana media consultant. Jim posed for photos. The catfish? It didn't make it onto the lunch menu.
The Mount of Beatitudes was marginally disappointing to me. It's the site of the Sermon on the Mount, but there is a church, a gift shop, and some other buildings on the site. I was envisioning a quiet hill with grass and rocks (like in the time of Jesus). Certainly all around the Sea of Galilee, including the hills on either side, there are beautiful hills that are more evocative of the time He was alive and preaching.
However, the next two stops on the Jesus Day were much more moving. We went to Capernaum, also known as the town of Jesus (there are numerous references to Jesus preaching and spending time in Capernaum). We saw the remains of the town, including Peter's house and two of the earliest Christian Churches (built on top of each other).We toured the town’s synagogue. Ian weaved together history, archaeology, and religion in a non-judgmental, fair way. He talked about the miracles of Jesus without debating whether or not they happened. His perspective is that history and archaeology go hand-in-glove when learning about religion. Miracles he ascribes to a matter of faith.
From there, we went to a seaside location where it is believed that the miracle of the loaves and fishes occured along the Sea of Galilee -- with a beautiful small church built around a rock that Jesus may have used during the miracle. We then went down to the water, took off our shoes, and rolled up our pants and waded into the Sea of Galilee. We filled bottles up with water from the Sea of Galilee. No other groups/people were there yet, so it was a very peaceful moment.
Oh, and then Jim saw a dead catfish in the reeds, so he went and picked it up. Tom Sawicki was cautioning not to pick it up, but Tom doesn't understand the life of a Louisiana media consultant. Jim posed for photos. The catfish? It didn't make it onto the lunch menu.
Wake Up The Echoes
I'm jump around days here, but in real time I'm back home in Virginia now, so it's time to get caught up on the blog. On late Thursday afternoon, after the visit to the Lebanese border and the Kibbutz, we drove down through the mountains, to the sea of Galilee, and across the River Jordan -- which isn't so wide.
The first few days of the trip dealt primarily with the politics in Israel – we had boots on the ground at the exciting time a Likud-Labor unity government was being built. Then, the focus of the trip shifted to security – starting with Yad Vashem and the lessons of the Holocaust to point out that the Jews had a recent reason to dig their boots into their land. Now, it is shifting more towards historical/Biblical Israel. That’s not to say history wasn’t covered early (certainly as we talked about Jerusalem), or that security was not a focus of our visit to the Golan Heights. But the days had themes, and we moved into the stories of yesteryear (going back well before the age of Jesus.
Adter we checked in, I wandered down to the beach at the Sea of Galiliee. With the exception of the lights of the houses, you can feel that the area is similar to the time of the Christ. It was an emotional moment for me. There is a very spiritual feel to that area – to me, much more so then in Jerusalem, because of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre covering up the land where Jesus was crucified, died, buried, and rose again from the dead.
The first few days of the trip dealt primarily with the politics in Israel – we had boots on the ground at the exciting time a Likud-Labor unity government was being built. Then, the focus of the trip shifted to security – starting with Yad Vashem and the lessons of the Holocaust to point out that the Jews had a recent reason to dig their boots into their land. Now, it is shifting more towards historical/Biblical Israel. That’s not to say history wasn’t covered early (certainly as we talked about Jerusalem), or that security was not a focus of our visit to the Golan Heights. But the days had themes, and we moved into the stories of yesteryear (going back well before the age of Jesus.
Adter we checked in, I wandered down to the beach at the Sea of Galiliee. With the exception of the lights of the houses, you can feel that the area is similar to the time of the Christ. It was an emotional moment for me. There is a very spiritual feel to that area – to me, much more so then in Jerusalem, because of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre covering up the land where Jesus was crucified, died, buried, and rose again from the dead.
Talking Politics
Wednesday night, we had a reception in Tel Aviv at the hotel with Israel Bechar, Kalman Gayer, and Aluf Benn. The first two are strategists/pollsters for the Likud party and the Kadima party respectively, while Mr. Benn is a leading journalist for Ha-aretz newspaper.
It was very interesting listening to the two pollsters talk about how they do the tracking and qualitative research in the race, as well as their perceptions about what worked for their respective parties' messages. I didn't get a chance to talk with Mr. Benn, but the others who did said he was quite interesting.
We then went to dinner at Goshen restaurant, with Eyal Arad, who is the top strategiest for Kadima. He was very interesting and opinionated. I liked him a lot, although I did wonder why he was so sure of himself and their victory, and yet his party did actually get to form the government. It's like winning the most votes but not the Electoral College.
Things change in politics -- the in party becomes the out party, and vice versa. It's just interesting that Kadima was never perceived as having a chance to form a majority coalition, which means a "win" is not always a win.
Mr. Arad was also particularly interested/insightful about U.S. politics, so the evening devolved into him asking questions of us, with a spirited (yet friendly) partisan debate about what's coming next in American politics.
We then walked back from the restaurant, through the streets of Tel Aviv, and down along the Mediterrean Sea -- a bunch of excited (slightly inebriated) Americans talking about both American and Israeli politics.
The day had started in Jerusalem with an emotional visit to Yad Vashem, then the absorption center, the site near the Gaza Strip, the IDF base, and then finally the beauty of the Mediterrean Sea/Tel Aviv beaches. A study in contrasts.
It was very interesting listening to the two pollsters talk about how they do the tracking and qualitative research in the race, as well as their perceptions about what worked for their respective parties' messages. I didn't get a chance to talk with Mr. Benn, but the others who did said he was quite interesting.
We then went to dinner at Goshen restaurant, with Eyal Arad, who is the top strategiest for Kadima. He was very interesting and opinionated. I liked him a lot, although I did wonder why he was so sure of himself and their victory, and yet his party did actually get to form the government. It's like winning the most votes but not the Electoral College.
Things change in politics -- the in party becomes the out party, and vice versa. It's just interesting that Kadima was never perceived as having a chance to form a majority coalition, which means a "win" is not always a win.
Mr. Arad was also particularly interested/insightful about U.S. politics, so the evening devolved into him asking questions of us, with a spirited (yet friendly) partisan debate about what's coming next in American politics.
We then walked back from the restaurant, through the streets of Tel Aviv, and down along the Mediterrean Sea -- a bunch of excited (slightly inebriated) Americans talking about both American and Israeli politics.
The day had started in Jerusalem with an emotional visit to Yad Vashem, then the absorption center, the site near the Gaza Strip, the IDF base, and then finally the beauty of the Mediterrean Sea/Tel Aviv beaches. A study in contrasts.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
A Universal Language
After the chilling visit to Yad Vashem, we experienced the opposite. We went to an immigrant absorption center (Mevasseret Zion). It is a place for new immigrants to Israel adjust to life in the country – usually for six months. They learn Hebrew, learn about the culture, and are generally eased into their strange new world.
The one we went to is dedicated now to Ethiopian Jewish refugees. Given the totally different world into which they are coming – from out of the ruralest (is that a word?) parts of Africa into a very large, cosmopolitan nation, the absorption process has been extended to a year. We first heard from two Ethiopian young women who came over in the first wave in 1985 (or so) as young children. Very compelling story about leaving their town at night, walking to the Sudan border, using the excuse of a wedding (they were dressed nicely) to get through, and then spending a year in a refugee camp. She also said that when she landed and saw all these white people, she exclaimed “I thought we were going to Israel – where are all the Jews?” She didn’t realize that her fellow Ethiopian Jews looked a bit different than most Jews.
We then went to a kindergarten that is part of the absoption center. The kids were so excited to see us that they thronged around, showing off. Several of them loved it when I was taking photos; they were mugging for the cameras. Finally, I kneeled down, beckoned one over, spun her around, and put her on my shoulders. Bedlam ensued. But, it was the best kind of bedlam. The other kdis crowded around my fellow consultants, shouting cries of joy as they were lifted up on to shoulders. We all gave them short piggyback rides, switch them out, and pick up another kid. Everyone was laughing – a really joyful moment after the sorrow of Yad Vashem.
(I know the blog is jumping around a lot, but Wednesday was the morning I went running in Jerusalem, so with all the lifting of the kids up and down, I got both cardio and strength workouts.)
That was followed by a stop for lunch at a nearby shopping mall, before heading down to Sederot (see earlier blog post).
So, I know what you are thinking. When the blog post title is “A Universal Language,” is Glen (that’s me referring to myself in the third person, but it is reflecting your thoughts, if you can follow my thoughts) talking about love or about piggyback rides. If you answered “both,” give yourself an extra credit of ten points.
The one we went to is dedicated now to Ethiopian Jewish refugees. Given the totally different world into which they are coming – from out of the ruralest (is that a word?) parts of Africa into a very large, cosmopolitan nation, the absorption process has been extended to a year. We first heard from two Ethiopian young women who came over in the first wave in 1985 (or so) as young children. Very compelling story about leaving their town at night, walking to the Sudan border, using the excuse of a wedding (they were dressed nicely) to get through, and then spending a year in a refugee camp. She also said that when she landed and saw all these white people, she exclaimed “I thought we were going to Israel – where are all the Jews?” She didn’t realize that her fellow Ethiopian Jews looked a bit different than most Jews.
We then went to a kindergarten that is part of the absoption center. The kids were so excited to see us that they thronged around, showing off. Several of them loved it when I was taking photos; they were mugging for the cameras. Finally, I kneeled down, beckoned one over, spun her around, and put her on my shoulders. Bedlam ensued. But, it was the best kind of bedlam. The other kdis crowded around my fellow consultants, shouting cries of joy as they were lifted up on to shoulders. We all gave them short piggyback rides, switch them out, and pick up another kid. Everyone was laughing – a really joyful moment after the sorrow of Yad Vashem.
(I know the blog is jumping around a lot, but Wednesday was the morning I went running in Jerusalem, so with all the lifting of the kids up and down, I got both cardio and strength workouts.)
That was followed by a stop for lunch at a nearby shopping mall, before heading down to Sederot (see earlier blog post).
So, I know what you are thinking. When the blog post title is “A Universal Language,” is Glen (that’s me referring to myself in the third person, but it is reflecting your thoughts, if you can follow my thoughts) talking about love or about piggyback rides. If you answered “both,” give yourself an extra credit of ten points.
This Isn't Good-Bye
Well, in real time, the trip is virtually over. After the last two days, in which we traveled from the Seat of Galilee in the North to Dead Sea in the South, we're back at the hotel -- and getting ready to head to Tel Aviv.
But, I've still got two days worth of travel to post about, as well as an additional Riffs. For my fellow travelers (and I mean that NOT in a 1950s Communist witch hunt kind of way), I'm going to ask them to provide a couple of paragraphs of thoughts each on the trip to add to the blog next week. There will also be more photos.
So, check back -- I'm going to write some on the plane and post on Sunday -- even though words can not begin to describe the wonder, amazement, history, beauty, and majesty of what we have seen and done in just the last 48 hours (Aaron and Tom King's late night exploits are not described by that last sentence).
I will hold my thanks and appreciation till a later blog, but I definitely have that sense of sadness that the trip is ending, and also the sense of eagerness to see my family again tomorrow, roughly 24 hours from now.
I write these travel blogs as an attempt to capture my impressions and memories for the future for myself and my family. As the trip comes to a calendar end, I do know what I've learned and observed here in Israel about a nation, its people, and the most complex situation in the world today will stay with me for a long time.
Oh yeah, and now I have to pack.
But, I've still got two days worth of travel to post about, as well as an additional Riffs. For my fellow travelers (and I mean that NOT in a 1950s Communist witch hunt kind of way), I'm going to ask them to provide a couple of paragraphs of thoughts each on the trip to add to the blog next week. There will also be more photos.
So, check back -- I'm going to write some on the plane and post on Sunday -- even though words can not begin to describe the wonder, amazement, history, beauty, and majesty of what we have seen and done in just the last 48 hours (Aaron and Tom King's late night exploits are not described by that last sentence).
I will hold my thanks and appreciation till a later blog, but I definitely have that sense of sadness that the trip is ending, and also the sense of eagerness to see my family again tomorrow, roughly 24 hours from now.
I write these travel blogs as an attempt to capture my impressions and memories for the future for myself and my family. As the trip comes to a calendar end, I do know what I've learned and observed here in Israel about a nation, its people, and the most complex situation in the world today will stay with me for a long time.
Oh yeah, and now I have to pack.
And There We Wept
Wednesday morning we headed down to Yad Vashem, which is the Israeli Musuem for the Holocaust. Ian stressed, in his briefings, that the Museum’s focus is on remembering the lives of the people, so it tells their story of life pre-Holocaust, and the tracks the rise of Hitler and the corresponding rise of /Anti-Semitism.
Of the six million Jews killed in the Holocaust, they have the names of roughly 3-4 million. But, when whole villages or whole families were wiped out, it’s hard to remember all. Tom Sawicki told of his father, a Holocaust survivor whose biggest regret in life is that he couldn’t remember the names of all of his 30-40 cousins who were murdered, so some of their names are lost forever.
The museum is amazing well put together, telling the story of the Holocaust with incredibly rich detail, but not in an overwhelming fashion (in terms of information – it’s certainly overwhelming emotionally.
A separate building, the Children’s Memorial, was perhaps the most compelling memorial I have ever been to. After that, I could hear the sniffles of my fellow consultants (me too). It's a very moving experience.
It would be easy for me to say, never again. But we know that there have been other similar situations since – Darfur, Rwanda, and Kosovo are more recent examples that come to mind. However, that does not mean we shouldn’t make it a national (and international) priority to say never again. That should be our goal. Never again.
Of the six million Jews killed in the Holocaust, they have the names of roughly 3-4 million. But, when whole villages or whole families were wiped out, it’s hard to remember all. Tom Sawicki told of his father, a Holocaust survivor whose biggest regret in life is that he couldn’t remember the names of all of his 30-40 cousins who were murdered, so some of their names are lost forever.
The museum is amazing well put together, telling the story of the Holocaust with incredibly rich detail, but not in an overwhelming fashion (in terms of information – it’s certainly overwhelming emotionally.
A separate building, the Children’s Memorial, was perhaps the most compelling memorial I have ever been to. After that, I could hear the sniffles of my fellow consultants (me too). It's a very moving experience.
It would be easy for me to say, never again. But we know that there have been other similar situations since – Darfur, Rwanda, and Kosovo are more recent examples that come to mind. However, that does not mean we shouldn’t make it a national (and international) priority to say never again. That should be our goal. Never again.
Friday, March 27, 2009
A Clash of Historical Narratives
We had a group lunch at the American Colony Hotel’s Arabesque hall, where the group heard more about AIPAC’s goals and mission. Our lunch speaker – Dr. Saab Erekat, cancelled on us. Given that he is the chief negotiator for the Palestinian Authority, he would have been interesting to hear.
The wind and rain was such that several umbrellas were casualties. Later, we went to AIPAC’s office in Jerusalem for meetings with two spokespersons for the PLO. On the list of things I never expected was to meet with two representatives of the PLO (no worries, Secretary of State Clinton, I didn’t try any unilateral peace negotiations) – and I even have their business cards and glossy brochure.
Rami Dajani and Alex Kouttab were our speakers (actually, Alex furiously took notes and didn’t say a thing, but since he’s new to the job I think he tagged along to learn). Rami did his job – providing the Palestinian perspective calmly, while also condemning Hamas. He handled some tough questions (NOT to say I agreed with him, but I will give him credit for staying on message). I asked about the Security Fence – and he didn’t like the terminology, calling it a Barrier or Wall, and then derided the idea that it had anything to do with the sharp decrease in suicide bombings, instead attributing it to increased policing by both PA police and Israeli security.
The most interesting thing he said, however, was in reaction to a question by Jim Duffy. The Dem media consultant asked what Rami woud do if he could wave a magic wand to solve the problem, and what he said was very interesting. The phrase that stood out to me is that it is a “clash of historical narratives.” In other words, both sides have their stories about the land and their history, and that those stories/history are compelling to each side, but that those narratives make it difficult to reach agreements. Another observation that they made is that there is no agreements on anything until everything is agreed to – which means there are no small compromises carried out until the big picture is solved. Very fascinating.
They were followed by Attorney Daniel Reisner, who is the country’s foremost expert in International Law, particularly specializing in asymmetrical warfare. To be fair, most in the group loved him (probably because they are Dems and he criticized the US’s handling of the terrorists at Gitmo). He was a compelling speaker, but not being a lawyer, it didn’t really hold my interest.
Reisner was followed by an Israeli Palestinian named Khaled Abu Toameh, the Palestinian Affairs correspondent for the Jerusalem Post and a producer/correspondent for NBC and others. He was quite frank and critical about the problems facing the Palestinian Authority, as well as Hamas, touching on governance, corruption, and terrorism. He held my interest very well.
(Part of the challenge – after taking Ambien the first night, I didn’t the second night, and at 3am, was stone cold awake, falling back asleep for an hour only at 5am. So, I was tired after a rainy day of with just one tour and nothing but seven meetings after that..)
I rallied for dinner (shocking), which we had at an Italian restaurant (Luciana) in the German Colony. Michael Medved’s brother, Jon, was our guest, and he gave us an in-depth briefing on Israel’s strong economy, particularly focusing on innovation and the high tech sector. He was quite interesting (and had to overcome the challenge of mourning his father’s death just ten days prior).
Next door was a wine store that ships overseas. However, when I walked in, I was informed it was closed (despite being unlocked and the salesperson was helping another customer). That was kind of strange – lights on, door unlocked, customer being helped, yet they didn’t want my money. Oh well. We walked a few blocks to a funky bar still in the German Colony – Tom Sawicki’s favorite place and enjoyed a few more beers/wines. On the way over, I had a good chat with one of our security guys – they weren’t talkative unless you approached them – then they were perfectly friendly.
The wind and rain was such that several umbrellas were casualties. Later, we went to AIPAC’s office in Jerusalem for meetings with two spokespersons for the PLO. On the list of things I never expected was to meet with two representatives of the PLO (no worries, Secretary of State Clinton, I didn’t try any unilateral peace negotiations) – and I even have their business cards and glossy brochure.
Rami Dajani and Alex Kouttab were our speakers (actually, Alex furiously took notes and didn’t say a thing, but since he’s new to the job I think he tagged along to learn). Rami did his job – providing the Palestinian perspective calmly, while also condemning Hamas. He handled some tough questions (NOT to say I agreed with him, but I will give him credit for staying on message). I asked about the Security Fence – and he didn’t like the terminology, calling it a Barrier or Wall, and then derided the idea that it had anything to do with the sharp decrease in suicide bombings, instead attributing it to increased policing by both PA police and Israeli security.
The most interesting thing he said, however, was in reaction to a question by Jim Duffy. The Dem media consultant asked what Rami woud do if he could wave a magic wand to solve the problem, and what he said was very interesting. The phrase that stood out to me is that it is a “clash of historical narratives.” In other words, both sides have their stories about the land and their history, and that those stories/history are compelling to each side, but that those narratives make it difficult to reach agreements. Another observation that they made is that there is no agreements on anything until everything is agreed to – which means there are no small compromises carried out until the big picture is solved. Very fascinating.
They were followed by Attorney Daniel Reisner, who is the country’s foremost expert in International Law, particularly specializing in asymmetrical warfare. To be fair, most in the group loved him (probably because they are Dems and he criticized the US’s handling of the terrorists at Gitmo). He was a compelling speaker, but not being a lawyer, it didn’t really hold my interest.
Reisner was followed by an Israeli Palestinian named Khaled Abu Toameh, the Palestinian Affairs correspondent for the Jerusalem Post and a producer/correspondent for NBC and others. He was quite frank and critical about the problems facing the Palestinian Authority, as well as Hamas, touching on governance, corruption, and terrorism. He held my interest very well.
(Part of the challenge – after taking Ambien the first night, I didn’t the second night, and at 3am, was stone cold awake, falling back asleep for an hour only at 5am. So, I was tired after a rainy day of with just one tour and nothing but seven meetings after that..)
I rallied for dinner (shocking), which we had at an Italian restaurant (Luciana) in the German Colony. Michael Medved’s brother, Jon, was our guest, and he gave us an in-depth briefing on Israel’s strong economy, particularly focusing on innovation and the high tech sector. He was quite interesting (and had to overcome the challenge of mourning his father’s death just ten days prior).
Next door was a wine store that ships overseas. However, when I walked in, I was informed it was closed (despite being unlocked and the salesperson was helping another customer). That was kind of strange – lights on, door unlocked, customer being helped, yet they didn’t want my money. Oh well. We walked a few blocks to a funky bar still in the German Colony – Tom Sawicki’s favorite place and enjoyed a few more beers/wines. On the way over, I had a good chat with one of our security guys – they weren’t talkative unless you approached them – then they were perfectly friendly.
A Knice Visit
Going back to fill in some of the past events which I did not cover. Tuesday morning was rainy and cold in Jerusalem. Which was fine, because it was a day chock full of meetings. All day, all rain.
We got to the Knesset, went thru tight security (much tighter than the NSC) and walked across the famed plaza. The Knesset is the legislative body of Israel, but (of course), since it is a Parliamentary system, it is also the base of the “executive.”
We went in to a relatively deserted building (Knesset knot in session) and got a tour from “Shirley” (the Anglo version of her name). First we watched a short film on the history and operations of the Knesset. The movie provided a helpful history and overview. Shirley then led us around the Knesset, including into the Plenum “important” visitors gallery, where we received a description of the seating, voting, etc. The seats on the floor of the Plenum are shaped to look like a Menorah, with the Prime Minister at the center seat of the “government table” which is smack in the middle. The Arab parties sit behind them in the middle, and then the opposition and the majority sit across from each other.
The main visitors gallery is two floors up is separated from the rest of the big room by bulletproof glass, because of a thrown grenade back in the 1950s. Anyone is welcome – including foreign visitors, so I’d recommend going (just wish it had been in session that day, so hopefully you’ll get lucky.)
After that, we walked through the Chagall Hall, which has tapestries and mosaics done by Marc Chagall – very beautiful, evocative stuff and headed downstairs into a new wing of the Knesset – the committee hearing rooms section. After a short wait, we met with four Members – one from each of the top four vote getting parties.
(I know you aren’t reading this for a primer on Israeli politics – and if you are, you won’t get one here. That disclaimer not withstanding, the four largest parties only won a combined 73 seats out of the 120, which means there are a lot of 2-4 seat small parties with which to negotiate and form a majority for government. Simply having 61 seats doesn’t work, because then any one MK could – and would – hold the government hostage before bringing it down. Thus endeth the lesson.)
The first MK was Tzipi Hotovely from Likud. Likud is the center-right party headed by once and again PM Bebe Netanyahu. Hotobely is a 30 year old lawyer and former political talk show guest. She’s a new MK, and she spoke in broader generalities – which makes sense, since she had just been elected. The government had not yet been formed, so things were still in a state of flux. Her strengths were her passion and vision. Her weakness was her lack of details.
The second MK was Yohanan Plessner from Kadima. This party is only a few years old, and actually won the most seats (28, compared to Likud’s 27). They couldn’t form a majority, however, and will be the opposition (for now, and then they’ll win at some point). Plessner was the Director-General of the party as it was getting going, went to the Kennedy School at Harvard, and served in key positions in the IDF. Plessner’s strengths were his ability to analyze a situation, his coolness under fire, and his experience as an operative before his election. His weakness is his arrogance. The others all could provide positive perspective towards the other parties/leaders, but not Plessner. From the way he talked, I thought he thought Kadima won 61 seats on their own!
Daniel Ben Simon was the Labor MK. That night was THE key meeting about the future of the Labor party. Labor is the left wing party that ran the country from its birth until Menachem Begin won in the 1970s. Simon was quite funny – a former journalist who had just been elected for the first time, Simon had us in stitches with his gallows humor about the challenges facing Labor. They only won 13 seats, and now they may split from disagreement on joining with Netanyahu to help form a coalition government (led by Likud). His strengths were his forthrightness and his humor. His weakness was not him, but that his party is on life support.
After a bit of a wait where we stood around and talked about the three Members and the political situation (along with a funny, yet off the record exchange between Chip and Leigh, with yours truly chiming in to “help” Chip). MK Danny Ayalon joined us. He’s from the controversial right wing party of Yisreal Beitenu. Ayalon served as Ambassador to the US from 2002-2006, so he’s conversant in US politics. His strengths are his poise, intelligence, and calm demeanor in talking about his party, which has been hammered by the domestic AND international press. His weakness is also his party, which is likely to have a difficult time breaking out of a 10-18 seat range (currently at 15).
We got to the Knesset, went thru tight security (much tighter than the NSC) and walked across the famed plaza. The Knesset is the legislative body of Israel, but (of course), since it is a Parliamentary system, it is also the base of the “executive.”
We went in to a relatively deserted building (Knesset knot in session) and got a tour from “Shirley” (the Anglo version of her name). First we watched a short film on the history and operations of the Knesset. The movie provided a helpful history and overview. Shirley then led us around the Knesset, including into the Plenum “important” visitors gallery, where we received a description of the seating, voting, etc. The seats on the floor of the Plenum are shaped to look like a Menorah, with the Prime Minister at the center seat of the “government table” which is smack in the middle. The Arab parties sit behind them in the middle, and then the opposition and the majority sit across from each other.
The main visitors gallery is two floors up is separated from the rest of the big room by bulletproof glass, because of a thrown grenade back in the 1950s. Anyone is welcome – including foreign visitors, so I’d recommend going (just wish it had been in session that day, so hopefully you’ll get lucky.)
After that, we walked through the Chagall Hall, which has tapestries and mosaics done by Marc Chagall – very beautiful, evocative stuff and headed downstairs into a new wing of the Knesset – the committee hearing rooms section. After a short wait, we met with four Members – one from each of the top four vote getting parties.
(I know you aren’t reading this for a primer on Israeli politics – and if you are, you won’t get one here. That disclaimer not withstanding, the four largest parties only won a combined 73 seats out of the 120, which means there are a lot of 2-4 seat small parties with which to negotiate and form a majority for government. Simply having 61 seats doesn’t work, because then any one MK could – and would – hold the government hostage before bringing it down. Thus endeth the lesson.)
The first MK was Tzipi Hotovely from Likud. Likud is the center-right party headed by once and again PM Bebe Netanyahu. Hotobely is a 30 year old lawyer and former political talk show guest. She’s a new MK, and she spoke in broader generalities – which makes sense, since she had just been elected. The government had not yet been formed, so things were still in a state of flux. Her strengths were her passion and vision. Her weakness was her lack of details.
The second MK was Yohanan Plessner from Kadima. This party is only a few years old, and actually won the most seats (28, compared to Likud’s 27). They couldn’t form a majority, however, and will be the opposition (for now, and then they’ll win at some point). Plessner was the Director-General of the party as it was getting going, went to the Kennedy School at Harvard, and served in key positions in the IDF. Plessner’s strengths were his ability to analyze a situation, his coolness under fire, and his experience as an operative before his election. His weakness is his arrogance. The others all could provide positive perspective towards the other parties/leaders, but not Plessner. From the way he talked, I thought he thought Kadima won 61 seats on their own!
Daniel Ben Simon was the Labor MK. That night was THE key meeting about the future of the Labor party. Labor is the left wing party that ran the country from its birth until Menachem Begin won in the 1970s. Simon was quite funny – a former journalist who had just been elected for the first time, Simon had us in stitches with his gallows humor about the challenges facing Labor. They only won 13 seats, and now they may split from disagreement on joining with Netanyahu to help form a coalition government (led by Likud). His strengths were his forthrightness and his humor. His weakness was not him, but that his party is on life support.
After a bit of a wait where we stood around and talked about the three Members and the political situation (along with a funny, yet off the record exchange between Chip and Leigh, with yours truly chiming in to “help” Chip). MK Danny Ayalon joined us. He’s from the controversial right wing party of Yisreal Beitenu. Ayalon served as Ambassador to the US from 2002-2006, so he’s conversant in US politics. His strengths are his poise, intelligence, and calm demeanor in talking about his party, which has been hammered by the domestic AND international press. His weakness is also his party, which is likely to have a difficult time breaking out of a 10-18 seat range (currently at 15).
How Many Idiots? Two -- One to Use It & One to Pose With It
A Lebanese Rocket at a Kibbutz Near the Border
An Undisclosed Location on the Israeli-Lebanese Border
We wound our way further north, through stunning countryside, past Mount Meron, and up to the very border with Lebanon. We stopped at an Army outpost high upon a hill. It was surrounded by barbed wire, ringed with concrete and dirt, and the gate was securely (?) locked by a lock and chain slightly bigger than a bicycle lock. (Humorously, a patrol vehicle came back but was locked out, so they had to wait for someone to come down from the outpost with a key).
We went up, just steps from the Lebanese border and received a briefing from the 21 year old Lieutenant who is in charge of some tanks and about a dozen men, all of whom looked young enough to look forward to shaving some day. In Israel, people grow up fast.
There were no Hizbollah or UN troops in sight, but there was a great deal of action at the outpost. Some soldiers were working on the tanks (they fired them up as part of their maintenance/for us), while a couple of patrol vehicles – Humvees with mounted machine guns and others – came through on their way checking the line. Poor Chip Saltsman was sick and had already gotten a ride to the Kibbutz where we stayed Thursday night, but the other GOP consultants had huge grins on our faces – we looked like it was Christmas morning and we were 8 years old!
Understandably, we were allowed to take pictures of the tanks/soldiers, but we were asked not to post them on the Internet/Facebook, etc. I’m going to respect that order for two reasons:
1. It makes sense.
2. No need to have the Mossad pay a visit to me in Virginia.
I asked the Lieutenant how many soldiers were stationed at the base. He didn’t want to answer the question, so I hurriedly withdrew it, to laughter all around. The briefing and the tanks took place on the other side of the top of the hill, because they don’t want anything visible to Hizbollah (which means “the party of God,” although as far as I can tell, they have little to do with a party and less to do with God).
It did look like something out of a CNN (or better yet, Fox News) segment, as the soldiers climbed around on the tanks with the sun behind them and the stunningly beautiful mountains in the background. I was expecting dirt and desert, but instead the land is beautiful.
On the walk back out of the outpost, I talked with one of the security guys about his service (parachutist), and his time in the reserve (medic). I asked about the UN troops, which he noted with anger were worthless.
Nearly everyone in Israel enters the military for 2-3 years, and then serves in the reserves till age 45 (and possibly a few beyond). This has multiple impacts – it provides the country with youthful leadership, provides the soldiers with friendships from different backgrounds (Israel is a melting pot), and, of course, provides a well trained reserve force that can be quickly mobilized.
After that, we headed for a short visit to a kibbutz very close to the Lebanese border, where the original plan was for us to plant kiwi trees, but we were running behind, so we got a short talk and some of us posed with the remnants of a rocket that was fired during the 2nd Lebanese War.
(By the way, we are now driving South on Friday mortning from the Golan Heights, from where we saw Syria. Now, we are looking across the Jordan Valley – which is part of the Syrian-African rift – into Jordan. At some point we were just one hundred yards or so from Jordan.)
We went up, just steps from the Lebanese border and received a briefing from the 21 year old Lieutenant who is in charge of some tanks and about a dozen men, all of whom looked young enough to look forward to shaving some day. In Israel, people grow up fast.
There were no Hizbollah or UN troops in sight, but there was a great deal of action at the outpost. Some soldiers were working on the tanks (they fired them up as part of their maintenance/for us), while a couple of patrol vehicles – Humvees with mounted machine guns and others – came through on their way checking the line. Poor Chip Saltsman was sick and had already gotten a ride to the Kibbutz where we stayed Thursday night, but the other GOP consultants had huge grins on our faces – we looked like it was Christmas morning and we were 8 years old!
Understandably, we were allowed to take pictures of the tanks/soldiers, but we were asked not to post them on the Internet/Facebook, etc. I’m going to respect that order for two reasons:
1. It makes sense.
2. No need to have the Mossad pay a visit to me in Virginia.
I asked the Lieutenant how many soldiers were stationed at the base. He didn’t want to answer the question, so I hurriedly withdrew it, to laughter all around. The briefing and the tanks took place on the other side of the top of the hill, because they don’t want anything visible to Hizbollah (which means “the party of God,” although as far as I can tell, they have little to do with a party and less to do with God).
It did look like something out of a CNN (or better yet, Fox News) segment, as the soldiers climbed around on the tanks with the sun behind them and the stunningly beautiful mountains in the background. I was expecting dirt and desert, but instead the land is beautiful.
On the walk back out of the outpost, I talked with one of the security guys about his service (parachutist), and his time in the reserve (medic). I asked about the UN troops, which he noted with anger were worthless.
Nearly everyone in Israel enters the military for 2-3 years, and then serves in the reserves till age 45 (and possibly a few beyond). This has multiple impacts – it provides the country with youthful leadership, provides the soldiers with friendships from different backgrounds (Israel is a melting pot), and, of course, provides a well trained reserve force that can be quickly mobilized.
After that, we headed for a short visit to a kibbutz very close to the Lebanese border, where the original plan was for us to plant kiwi trees, but we were running behind, so we got a short talk and some of us posed with the remnants of a rocket that was fired during the 2nd Lebanese War.
(By the way, we are now driving South on Friday mortning from the Golan Heights, from where we saw Syria. Now, we are looking across the Jordan Valley – which is part of the Syrian-African rift – into Jordan. At some point we were just one hundred yards or so from Jordan.)
No Child Left Behind
Thursday midday we went to Yemin Orde. It is a “Youth Aliyah” village for more than 500 children around the world, albeit primarily from Ethiopia and countries from the former Soviet Union. The village is a high school for orphans and children from disadvantaged areas – a non-boarding school boarding school.
First, the elderly gentleman who once ran the school spoke to us about the history and vision of the place. Israel wants to provide a home to all Jewish children who need a home. They also allow students who graduate to either stay there or come back if there are problems – generally kids come back for a time period and then get their lives going.
We then had lunch with some of the students in the cafeteria. Aaron, Maren and I started talking to a 19 year old from Ethiopia who was heading into the Army shortly. Then, a couple of 16 year girls – one from the Ukraine who had been in Israel for two years, and one from Kazakhstan who had been here one year sat down next to Aaron and I for a while.
They had great poise, and all spoke 3-4 languages (which is 2-4 more than I speak at times). They all had different favorite subjects in school, and played a variety of sports (soccer, volleyball). One of the girls is a singer who was preparing to sing in a major program.
We then toured the grounds, including the synagogue and a modern Ethiopian hut that works as a transition area for some students.
Back on the bus to travel even further north. After picking out Israeli Arab towns for a while from the mosques, looking at the agriculture, and spotting some camels, I feel asleep until we got to Karm’el, a bustling industrial city surrounded by beautiful and high (for Israel) mountains, where we stopped for coffee (ok, sparkling water for me, as I’m not a coffee drinker).
First, the elderly gentleman who once ran the school spoke to us about the history and vision of the place. Israel wants to provide a home to all Jewish children who need a home. They also allow students who graduate to either stay there or come back if there are problems – generally kids come back for a time period and then get their lives going.
We then had lunch with some of the students in the cafeteria. Aaron, Maren and I started talking to a 19 year old from Ethiopia who was heading into the Army shortly. Then, a couple of 16 year girls – one from the Ukraine who had been in Israel for two years, and one from Kazakhstan who had been here one year sat down next to Aaron and I for a while.
They had great poise, and all spoke 3-4 languages (which is 2-4 more than I speak at times). They all had different favorite subjects in school, and played a variety of sports (soccer, volleyball). One of the girls is a singer who was preparing to sing in a major program.
We then toured the grounds, including the synagogue and a modern Ethiopian hut that works as a transition area for some students.
Back on the bus to travel even further north. After picking out Israeli Arab towns for a while from the mosques, looking at the agriculture, and spotting some camels, I feel asleep until we got to Karm’el, a bustling industrial city surrounded by beautiful and high (for Israel) mountains, where we stopped for coffee (ok, sparkling water for me, as I’m not a coffee drinker).
Depends on What the Definition of "Is" Is
After the run/shower in Tel Aviv, we posed for group pictures in a park overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Then we hopped on the bus, and drove to the West Bank Settlement of Alfei Menashe, for an overlook that encompasses a view of approximately 75-80% of Israel’s population.
A couple of observations:
1. It’s a bit strange when you realize that you are no longer on the right side of the security fence.
2. Sort of like the feeling when you realize the towns you are driving by have minarets, which are attached to mosques, which means there are Arabs (not that there is anything wrong with that, but if you’ve been any attention to the news for the last 60 years or so, the region known as the Middle East can be quite volatile. Further, the area known as Israel can be volatile. To further educate those who have avoided Middle Eastern news for the last six decades (or six millennium, you choose), the West Bank has been pretty volatile.
3. Image standing on a hill and having a view from which 75%-80% of America’s population lives. Odds are high that we as Americans would want to control that hill.
The settlement was not as I expected. Frankly, I was expecting a besieged desert area with cramped housing and constant patrols. Instead, it looked like a beautiful housing development in Scottsdale. Alfei Menashe was started in 1983, when a number of settlers built on a barren hill. They moved out not for ideological reasons, but because land is more plentiful and cheaper (think Loundon County, Virginia in 1983). The homes and buildings are quite nice, with red tile roofs (I still think they are paying a fee to Scottsdale for copying the look), and green all around.
It turns out there are two words in Hebrew for “settlers” – one is matter of fact, and the other is much more ideologically charged. Because Alfei Menashe began so long ago as a commuter suburb (it’s only twelve miles to the Sea, and just a few to major Israeli towns – and jobs), the benign use of “settlers” is applied – which is not so everywhere.
Retired Colonel Miri Eisin is a former Special Assistant to the Director of Military Intelligence. She joined us at the overlook to brief us on the complexities of the West Bank settlement issues, as well provide a demographic briefing on Israel. Her main message was to talk about the complexities.
She pointed out on the hill next door was a Palestinian town. Below it was an Israeli Arab town (replete with mosques/minarets). Down below us was a Palestinian Arab town (Kalkilye – Google map it) that was dingy and dirty. Apparently they have open sewage and other problems that neither the PLO nor the other Arab nations will help fix – because of corruption issues. The town is run by a Hamas mayor, and contributed 27 suicide bombers back before the Security Fence went up.
(By the way, after 20 years in the Army, she became a Spokesperson for the Government, and then worked for the Prime Minister. She’s now working on her doctoral dissertation on “Political Narratives in the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict” – should be easy.)
Interesting demo note – she pointed out that 75% of the Israeli-Americans who have dual citizenship voted for John McCain. Rob Stutzman quipped – “we’re in a Red State!” A good laugh was had by the GOP consultants on the trip. The Dems? They didn’t laugh.
A couple of observations:
1. It’s a bit strange when you realize that you are no longer on the right side of the security fence.
2. Sort of like the feeling when you realize the towns you are driving by have minarets, which are attached to mosques, which means there are Arabs (not that there is anything wrong with that, but if you’ve been any attention to the news for the last 60 years or so, the region known as the Middle East can be quite volatile. Further, the area known as Israel can be volatile. To further educate those who have avoided Middle Eastern news for the last six decades (or six millennium, you choose), the West Bank has been pretty volatile.
3. Image standing on a hill and having a view from which 75%-80% of America’s population lives. Odds are high that we as Americans would want to control that hill.
The settlement was not as I expected. Frankly, I was expecting a besieged desert area with cramped housing and constant patrols. Instead, it looked like a beautiful housing development in Scottsdale. Alfei Menashe was started in 1983, when a number of settlers built on a barren hill. They moved out not for ideological reasons, but because land is more plentiful and cheaper (think Loundon County, Virginia in 1983). The homes and buildings are quite nice, with red tile roofs (I still think they are paying a fee to Scottsdale for copying the look), and green all around.
It turns out there are two words in Hebrew for “settlers” – one is matter of fact, and the other is much more ideologically charged. Because Alfei Menashe began so long ago as a commuter suburb (it’s only twelve miles to the Sea, and just a few to major Israeli towns – and jobs), the benign use of “settlers” is applied – which is not so everywhere.
Retired Colonel Miri Eisin is a former Special Assistant to the Director of Military Intelligence. She joined us at the overlook to brief us on the complexities of the West Bank settlement issues, as well provide a demographic briefing on Israel. Her main message was to talk about the complexities.
She pointed out on the hill next door was a Palestinian town. Below it was an Israeli Arab town (replete with mosques/minarets). Down below us was a Palestinian Arab town (Kalkilye – Google map it) that was dingy and dirty. Apparently they have open sewage and other problems that neither the PLO nor the other Arab nations will help fix – because of corruption issues. The town is run by a Hamas mayor, and contributed 27 suicide bombers back before the Security Fence went up.
(By the way, after 20 years in the Army, she became a Spokesperson for the Government, and then worked for the Prime Minister. She’s now working on her doctoral dissertation on “Political Narratives in the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict” – should be easy.)
Interesting demo note – she pointed out that 75% of the Israeli-Americans who have dual citizenship voted for John McCain. Rob Stutzman quipped – “we’re in a Red State!” A good laugh was had by the GOP consultants on the trip. The Dems? They didn’t laugh.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Road Riffs (or Blackberry Bus Blogging)
Heading North towards Galilee, the Golan Heights, and the northern part of the West Bank.
Every speaker thus far has talked without notes. Very impressive.
At one point, Israel is just nine miles wide. Think Mt.Vernon to Alexandria.
Nearly all Israelis speak English (along w Hebrew and, often one or two more languages. Some of our speakers have thick accents, but their English is better than my Hebrew (as in I don't have any).
Seeing the minarets of the mosques is beautiful. Yet weird. We're on the West Bank right now.
In a land of strange juxtapositions, left a modern settlement started in the 1980s and looking like Scottsdale AZ. On the way down the hills, passed both a sheepherder (and his sheep) along w a goatherder (and his goats). They were both wearing throwback uniforms that looked more like the time of Jesus than the time of Hugo Boss.
Food is so amazing I skipped breakfast and ate the Kiwi in the room.
The folks at AIEF worked the weather well. It poured on Tuesday, which was a day chock full of meetings. The days outside have been beautiful. Good work on the weather!
The group has bonded pretty well, having rollicking discussions about American politics.
Camel sightings!!!
The folks at AIEF know what they are doing. Great program, impressive speakers. Only two suggestions thus far -- one less speaker on Tuesday, and have tissues on the bus after Yad Vashem. (More on that later).
On my run this morning, went past the bar that was bombed next to the American Embassy in Tel Aviv.
Settlements here aren't what I expected to see. And, it's like a Century 21 ad -- location, location, location!
Every speaker thus far has talked without notes. Very impressive.
At one point, Israel is just nine miles wide. Think Mt.Vernon to Alexandria.
Nearly all Israelis speak English (along w Hebrew and, often one or two more languages. Some of our speakers have thick accents, but their English is better than my Hebrew (as in I don't have any).
Seeing the minarets of the mosques is beautiful. Yet weird. We're on the West Bank right now.
In a land of strange juxtapositions, left a modern settlement started in the 1980s and looking like Scottsdale AZ. On the way down the hills, passed both a sheepherder (and his sheep) along w a goatherder (and his goats). They were both wearing throwback uniforms that looked more like the time of Jesus than the time of Hugo Boss.
Food is so amazing I skipped breakfast and ate the Kiwi in the room.
The folks at AIEF worked the weather well. It poured on Tuesday, which was a day chock full of meetings. The days outside have been beautiful. Good work on the weather!
The group has bonded pretty well, having rollicking discussions about American politics.
Camel sightings!!!
The folks at AIEF know what they are doing. Great program, impressive speakers. Only two suggestions thus far -- one less speaker on Tuesday, and have tissues on the bus after Yad Vashem. (More on that later).
On my run this morning, went past the bar that was bombed next to the American Embassy in Tel Aviv.
Settlements here aren't what I expected to see. And, it's like a Century 21 ad -- location, location, location!
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Jerusalem from the Sherover Promenade
Frankly, the photo doesn't do the view justice, so I suppose you'll just have to come to Jerusalem and see for yourself.
This Stinks.
Okay, lest you get the wrong impression, I stink. Not figuratively, but literally. I just got back from a run along the beaches of Tel Aviv. So, I worked up a sweat -- big deal. Well, the reason I'm riper than normal is that I ran in the same workout gear I wore yesterday (all Nike running gear, but I'm skeptical they'll sponsor me).
So, I was already ripe when I started this morning.
Anyhow, I make it point to run in great cities and along major bodies of water when I can. Jerusalem yesterday and the Mediterrean Sea just now hit both of those goals. Given we got to Tel Aviv as the sun literally sank into the Sea, it's hard to get a feel for the place, although we did walk back 20 minutes through the city to the hotel.
Comparisons are always dangerous, because they oversimplify, but what the heck -- it's a blog, so let's do it anyhow. Tel Aviv strikes me as more of a New York City (combined with the beaches of Miami), while the sport of Jerusalem is clearly politics (aka Washington, DC). Obviously, DC lacks the same few thousand years of history that Jerusalem has, but there also still a sense from Mt. Vernon to the Capitol Building, that it is a focal point of a nation's history.
Alright, enough of the stretched comparisons.
So, I was already ripe when I started this morning.
Anyhow, I make it point to run in great cities and along major bodies of water when I can. Jerusalem yesterday and the Mediterrean Sea just now hit both of those goals. Given we got to Tel Aviv as the sun literally sank into the Sea, it's hard to get a feel for the place, although we did walk back 20 minutes through the city to the hotel.
Comparisons are always dangerous, because they oversimplify, but what the heck -- it's a blog, so let's do it anyhow. Tel Aviv strikes me as more of a New York City (combined with the beaches of Miami), while the sport of Jerusalem is clearly politics (aka Washington, DC). Obviously, DC lacks the same few thousand years of history that Jerusalem has, but there also still a sense from Mt. Vernon to the Capitol Building, that it is a focal point of a nation's history.
Alright, enough of the stretched comparisons.
A Land of Milk and Honey
For dinner Monday night, we boarded the bus (if it seems like we're constantly on the go and have no free time, it only seems that way because that's the way it is!) and traveled into a neighborhood for one of the finest meals I've ever had (and I've had many a good one).
People have been living in this neighborhood for upwards of four thousand years -- and it is where John the Baptist grew up. It's now part of Jerusalem, but back then it was a small town.
The bus couldn't fit through the road to get to the restaurant, so we hiked it up hill on a narrow street after passing under an arch. It was raining lightly when we disembarked, so I disdainfully (and stupidly) turned down the offer of an umbrella. Well, what started as a light rain quickly turned heavy. I finally took up the offer to share an umbrella, but was pretty well dripping wet.
The restaurant ("Spoons") bills itself as the fine art of cuisine, and the owner (Hila Solomon) sure got it right. It's actually in a lovely home entered through a beautiful garden path. They had one long table set up, and just kept bringing dish after dish. The figs and the lamb appetizer were my two particular favorites, but that's not to slight the remaining dishes. I quickly realized my situation was hopeless, as there were no doggy bags to pour the uneaten lamb for taking home and gorging on later. We had two options for main courses -- chicken or fish. I can't speak re the fish (which looked good), but the spices on the chicken were delicious.
For more info on Spoons: http://www.uniqueideas.biz/ZFA/Pulse45/18.htm
Now that I'm done shilling for this fabulous restaurant, let's get to the guests. Two journalists from Ha'aretz newspaper joined us -- Avi Issacharoff, the Arab Affairs correspondent, and Amos Harel, the Military Affairs correspondent. They work as a complimentary team, breaking stories and writing books and columns together. Apparrently, their recent coverage of the Gaza Strip issues has been controversial both in the country and internationally, and they had many interesting stories and perspectives. Avi told of having coffee late into the evening in Cairo with Hamas leaders.
I asked Avi if, given all his work in meeting with the PLO, Hamas, and other Arab radicals, he ever felt his life were in danger and that he would not make it through the day. He told the humorous story (after the fact) of covering a funeral for ten Hamas soldier/terrorists who had been killed. The crowd turned into a mob, so he grabbed a Hamas leader by the arm (so the leader couldn't fire his AK-47 into the air) and began interviewing him. The Hamas leader gave him a look that implied that Avi's Arabic was very good, but might he be Jewish? Then the next look was -- "no way, no Jew would be that crazy to be here."
Aside from that story, it's strange how the Palestinians crave press even from Israeli newspapers and TV. But, if these issues were easy to solve, it would have been done by now.
After dessert, we made our way back to the bus through the pouring rain (this time I shared an umbrella the whole way down). A group of us reconvened at the hotel bar and closed down the bar (shocking for a group of political consultants to do so).
People have been living in this neighborhood for upwards of four thousand years -- and it is where John the Baptist grew up. It's now part of Jerusalem, but back then it was a small town.
The bus couldn't fit through the road to get to the restaurant, so we hiked it up hill on a narrow street after passing under an arch. It was raining lightly when we disembarked, so I disdainfully (and stupidly) turned down the offer of an umbrella. Well, what started as a light rain quickly turned heavy. I finally took up the offer to share an umbrella, but was pretty well dripping wet.
The restaurant ("Spoons") bills itself as the fine art of cuisine, and the owner (Hila Solomon) sure got it right. It's actually in a lovely home entered through a beautiful garden path. They had one long table set up, and just kept bringing dish after dish. The figs and the lamb appetizer were my two particular favorites, but that's not to slight the remaining dishes. I quickly realized my situation was hopeless, as there were no doggy bags to pour the uneaten lamb for taking home and gorging on later. We had two options for main courses -- chicken or fish. I can't speak re the fish (which looked good), but the spices on the chicken were delicious.
For more info on Spoons: http://www.uniqueideas.biz/ZFA/Pulse45/18.htm
Now that I'm done shilling for this fabulous restaurant, let's get to the guests. Two journalists from Ha'aretz newspaper joined us -- Avi Issacharoff, the Arab Affairs correspondent, and Amos Harel, the Military Affairs correspondent. They work as a complimentary team, breaking stories and writing books and columns together. Apparrently, their recent coverage of the Gaza Strip issues has been controversial both in the country and internationally, and they had many interesting stories and perspectives. Avi told of having coffee late into the evening in Cairo with Hamas leaders.
I asked Avi if, given all his work in meeting with the PLO, Hamas, and other Arab radicals, he ever felt his life were in danger and that he would not make it through the day. He told the humorous story (after the fact) of covering a funeral for ten Hamas soldier/terrorists who had been killed. The crowd turned into a mob, so he grabbed a Hamas leader by the arm (so the leader couldn't fire his AK-47 into the air) and began interviewing him. The Hamas leader gave him a look that implied that Avi's Arabic was very good, but might he be Jewish? Then the next look was -- "no way, no Jew would be that crazy to be here."
Aside from that story, it's strange how the Palestinians crave press even from Israeli newspapers and TV. But, if these issues were easy to solve, it would have been done by now.
After dessert, we made our way back to the bus through the pouring rain (this time I shared an umbrella the whole way down). A group of us reconvened at the hotel bar and closed down the bar (shocking for a group of political consultants to do so).
In A Big Country
Going back in time to Monday, after touring the Old City with Ian as our in-depth guide, we headed off to lunch at a restaurant (must track down name!) with Professor Reuven Hazan. The professor gave us an excellent overview of the recent elections, and how the political system is divided between the Hawks, the Doves, and now the new middle party -- Kadima. The meal was excellent (interestingly, a variety of vegetarian dishes), and the briefing was thorough. While the first two speakers gave us some perspective, Prof. Hazan gave us a chalk talk that provided a grounding for the rest of the week.
Then, we got back on the bus and drove to a neighborhood overlooking the controversial security fence. Before the fence (or barrier, or wall, depending on who is calling it what), there had been the 2nd intifada (sp?), with suicide bombers loose in Jerusalem, as well as significant sniper fire from the Palestinian towns that we could see from the street. The fence has been successful at driving down the number of suicide bombings, and there is no longer sniper fire at the apartments. Indeed, people were even out on their patios in the apartments (there is a very low rental rate in Israel. Most people own their homes/apartments. For some reason, the apartments that were being shot at were taking a long time to sell, so simply leaving was not an affordable option).
It is striking just how small a country Israel is. The security fence is yet another reminder -- suicide bombers could just slip across the border and blow themselves up in the City Center of Jerusalem.
For more on the fence: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Israeli_West_Bank_barrier
Prior to arriving at the Security Fence overlook, we stopped at the Sherover Promenade for a spectacular view of Jerusalem -- the Old City and the Mount of Olives.
For the bigger picture on just how small Israel is, we then headed over to the National Security Council to meet wtih Sima Shine, the Deputy Head of the Israeli NSC. She had formerly been with Mossad, so I made the relatively easy decision not to trifle with her. Her talk focused on two aspects -- Hamas and -- as an even bigger concern -- Iran.
It is clear from the first two days that most Israelis (including the press coverage) are significantly more concern about the Iranian nuclear threat than Americans are. Of course, they are one of the likeliest targets of any Iranian nuclear threat. From the discussion of Iran whilst here, it is likely that either the U.S., some coalition of nations, or Israel will have to act decisively in the next few years to forestall Iran from fully developing a nuclear weapon.
We did have to go through two security screenings to get into the meeting with the NSC, although I think our status on this trip probably kept the security from being even more in-depth.
Then, we got back on the bus and drove to a neighborhood overlooking the controversial security fence. Before the fence (or barrier, or wall, depending on who is calling it what), there had been the 2nd intifada (sp?), with suicide bombers loose in Jerusalem, as well as significant sniper fire from the Palestinian towns that we could see from the street. The fence has been successful at driving down the number of suicide bombings, and there is no longer sniper fire at the apartments. Indeed, people were even out on their patios in the apartments (there is a very low rental rate in Israel. Most people own their homes/apartments. For some reason, the apartments that were being shot at were taking a long time to sell, so simply leaving was not an affordable option).
It is striking just how small a country Israel is. The security fence is yet another reminder -- suicide bombers could just slip across the border and blow themselves up in the City Center of Jerusalem.
For more on the fence: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Israeli_West_Bank_barrier
Prior to arriving at the Security Fence overlook, we stopped at the Sherover Promenade for a spectacular view of Jerusalem -- the Old City and the Mount of Olives.
For the bigger picture on just how small Israel is, we then headed over to the National Security Council to meet wtih Sima Shine, the Deputy Head of the Israeli NSC. She had formerly been with Mossad, so I made the relatively easy decision not to trifle with her. Her talk focused on two aspects -- Hamas and -- as an even bigger concern -- Iran.
It is clear from the first two days that most Israelis (including the press coverage) are significantly more concern about the Iranian nuclear threat than Americans are. Of course, they are one of the likeliest targets of any Iranian nuclear threat. From the discussion of Iran whilst here, it is likely that either the U.S., some coalition of nations, or Israel will have to act decisively in the next few years to forestall Iran from fully developing a nuclear weapon.
We did have to go through two security screenings to get into the meeting with the NSC, although I think our status on this trip probably kept the security from being even more in-depth.
Never Again
Israel certainly is a land of contrasts. I'm in my Sheraton Hotel room in Tel Aviv, just having watched the last of the sunset over the Mediterrean Sea. But, we just came from the Palmachin IDF Base (IDF -- Israel Defense Forces) where we were given a movie and tour on the Arrow defense missile. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arrow_missile
There were several cool aspects to this show and tour. The first is that we got to go into one of the two control rooms in the country that coordinates the Arrow missile. The control room was in training mode, not full search and destroy mode, which is good -- one because it meant no one was shooting at us (and by "us" I mean the nation of Israel, and by "no one" I mean Syria or Iraq. I know which side I'm on in this one), and two (yes, it's a long sentence, but it's a blog for pity's sake!), because we got to see some stuff happening on the screens.
The room is like a James Bond film come to life. Serious (yet very young) IDF officers perched at oversized computer screens with lots of cool stuff going on. think an HD version of Missile Command.
Another cool aspect is that President Reagan's SDI is mentioned in the briefing as a genesis of this self defense missile. Remember, the point of the Arrow missile is to shoot down Ballastic Missile (not rockets fired across the border from the Gaza Strip -- they are too small and hit in eight seconds from detection). No, this is for the 40 seconds they have to react from Syrian-fired missiles. Hmmm -- wonder where the concept came from (thanks, President Reagan).
I'm not a defense expert, but it appears the Arrow is the Patriot missile on steriods. Barry Bonds-style -- more accurate, more successful. They still use the Patriot, but the Arrow is the cornerstone.
Then, we were taken on a bus tour around one of the two main Arrow missile sites (they also have mobile launchers). With several Israeli military on the bus to narrate, Rob Stutzman and I tried to decide whether we would get shot for taking photos of the launchers. I started taking pictures, and he joined in (we had the theory that the Chinese already had satellite pics of it).
The moral of the story (from my perspective) is that Israel, between the security fence, the Arrow missile, and the willingness to move out of areas like the Gaza Strip, want to make sure that they will always have the upper hand against those who wish the worst upon Israel -- be it Hamas or Iraq.
(I know I'm jumping around in my blog posts now -- I've skipped Monday afternoon, all of Tuesday, and now Wednesday morning to cover Wednesday afternoon. Not to worry -- I'm going to catch up tonight.)
There were several cool aspects to this show and tour. The first is that we got to go into one of the two control rooms in the country that coordinates the Arrow missile. The control room was in training mode, not full search and destroy mode, which is good -- one because it meant no one was shooting at us (and by "us" I mean the nation of Israel, and by "no one" I mean Syria or Iraq. I know which side I'm on in this one), and two (yes, it's a long sentence, but it's a blog for pity's sake!), because we got to see some stuff happening on the screens.
The room is like a James Bond film come to life. Serious (yet very young) IDF officers perched at oversized computer screens with lots of cool stuff going on. think an HD version of Missile Command.
Another cool aspect is that President Reagan's SDI is mentioned in the briefing as a genesis of this self defense missile. Remember, the point of the Arrow missile is to shoot down Ballastic Missile (not rockets fired across the border from the Gaza Strip -- they are too small and hit in eight seconds from detection). No, this is for the 40 seconds they have to react from Syrian-fired missiles. Hmmm -- wonder where the concept came from (thanks, President Reagan).
I'm not a defense expert, but it appears the Arrow is the Patriot missile on steriods. Barry Bonds-style -- more accurate, more successful. They still use the Patriot, but the Arrow is the cornerstone.
Then, we were taken on a bus tour around one of the two main Arrow missile sites (they also have mobile launchers). With several Israeli military on the bus to narrate, Rob Stutzman and I tried to decide whether we would get shot for taking photos of the launchers. I started taking pictures, and he joined in (we had the theory that the Chinese already had satellite pics of it).
The moral of the story (from my perspective) is that Israel, between the security fence, the Arrow missile, and the willingness to move out of areas like the Gaza Strip, want to make sure that they will always have the upper hand against those who wish the worst upon Israel -- be it Hamas or Iraq.
(I know I'm jumping around in my blog posts now -- I've skipped Monday afternoon, all of Tuesday, and now Wednesday morning to cover Wednesday afternoon. Not to worry -- I'm going to catch up tonight.)
My Wife and Kids Shouldn't Read This
Well, I'm writing this on bberry while on the bus from Sederot to an Israeli Air Force Base. I've still got a lot of back posts to write (and will by tomorrow morn), but I had to post this.
Sederot is a town very close to the Gaza Strip that has taken the brunt of most of the rocket attacks from Hamas.
We went to an overlook to see Gaza City, The flowers are blooming, the birds were chirping, and you could hear gunfire from the Gaza Strip.
A woman who lived in a settlement in the Strip (Gaza, not Vegas) came and spoke very movingly to us. Her and her family left their home at the request of the govt -- in hopes of advancing peace.
The Palestinians had the Israelis bulldoze the houses so the Palestinians wouldn't fight over them. The shools, clinics were left, but go unused.
They live just 2.5 klicks from their old house, but in a caravan w no safe house. The govt hasn't moved them to a house as pledged four years ago, and their caravan park has come under attack.
They haven't moved to Tel Aviv or Jerusalem because that would be sueerendering to terrorism. She told a number of very moving stories about coming under rocket attack, including a family who suffered critical injuries in an attack.
In the old settlement, her next door neighbor's daughter was murdered by terrorists while on her first date.
I won't try and go in more depth, because I can't do it justice.
There is a reason nothing is easy here. The courage these people have is staggering -- many are descended from Holocaust survivors, and they had 60 years of war and terrorism.
The ability to build a nation and thrive under such circumstances is a testament to the character of the people of israel.
My life challenges -- not quite as deep! Right now my main concern is blackberry thumb from writing this post.
Sederot is a town very close to the Gaza Strip that has taken the brunt of most of the rocket attacks from Hamas.
We went to an overlook to see Gaza City, The flowers are blooming, the birds were chirping, and you could hear gunfire from the Gaza Strip.
A woman who lived in a settlement in the Strip (Gaza, not Vegas) came and spoke very movingly to us. Her and her family left their home at the request of the govt -- in hopes of advancing peace.
The Palestinians had the Israelis bulldoze the houses so the Palestinians wouldn't fight over them. The shools, clinics were left, but go unused.
They live just 2.5 klicks from their old house, but in a caravan w no safe house. The govt hasn't moved them to a house as pledged four years ago, and their caravan park has come under attack.
They haven't moved to Tel Aviv or Jerusalem because that would be sueerendering to terrorism. She told a number of very moving stories about coming under rocket attack, including a family who suffered critical injuries in an attack.
In the old settlement, her next door neighbor's daughter was murdered by terrorists while on her first date.
I won't try and go in more depth, because I can't do it justice.
There is a reason nothing is easy here. The courage these people have is staggering -- many are descended from Holocaust survivors, and they had 60 years of war and terrorism.
The ability to build a nation and thrive under such circumstances is a testament to the character of the people of israel.
My life challenges -- not quite as deep! Right now my main concern is blackberry thumb from writing this post.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Back by Popular Demand
Okay, so I'm way behind on posting details of the trip. I will catch up -- I always do, but for now, since we're leaving Jerusalem in an hour (unshowered, unpacked, haven't eaten yet -- but blogging after running comes first!) I'm going to jot out a few of my famous riffs -- observations on the trip thus far:
Israelis are a passionate lot. Given their struggle to survive, it's understandable, but the passion that they bring to their perspectives and their lives is amazing.
The food is fantastic and we are eating like kings. We are eating at nice restaurants, true -- but the freshness of the vegetables, the use of the spices, is staggering.
Unemployment must be low. It seems everyone is employed either in the military, as security, or in the high tech industry (which ranks behind the US as the second-biggest in the world).
For a desert, they've sure been getting a lot of rain. It is the rainy season, so the steady downpour of Monday night and nearly all of Tuesday has been helpful. It worked out well, since Tuesday was primarily an inside day of speakers. Today is sunny (one of the reasons I went for a run), and we are traveling around the country.
There is a widespread opinion that the political system here is broken -- too many parties, not enough ability for leadership. The major parties are in consensus that reform is needed, although it appears there is no consensus on reform. A total of 34 parties ran in the last election, although only 10-12 (will doublecheck that figure) won seats in the Knesset.
Politics, or at least complaining about politics, appears to be a national sport on par with the NFL. Fans of the losin team want to fire the coach, and fans of the winning team wonder why they aren't winning by more.
The hotel has an interesting design -- the windows are sideways into the room, which I'm theorizing is for security purposes -- so snipers couldn't get a clear shot at the guests (not a design feature found in your typical Marriott).
Well, back on the bus, Gus.
Israelis are a passionate lot. Given their struggle to survive, it's understandable, but the passion that they bring to their perspectives and their lives is amazing.
The food is fantastic and we are eating like kings. We are eating at nice restaurants, true -- but the freshness of the vegetables, the use of the spices, is staggering.
Unemployment must be low. It seems everyone is employed either in the military, as security, or in the high tech industry (which ranks behind the US as the second-biggest in the world).
For a desert, they've sure been getting a lot of rain. It is the rainy season, so the steady downpour of Monday night and nearly all of Tuesday has been helpful. It worked out well, since Tuesday was primarily an inside day of speakers. Today is sunny (one of the reasons I went for a run), and we are traveling around the country.
There is a widespread opinion that the political system here is broken -- too many parties, not enough ability for leadership. The major parties are in consensus that reform is needed, although it appears there is no consensus on reform. A total of 34 parties ran in the last election, although only 10-12 (will doublecheck that figure) won seats in the Knesset.
Politics, or at least complaining about politics, appears to be a national sport on par with the NFL. Fans of the losin team want to fire the coach, and fans of the winning team wonder why they aren't winning by more.
The hotel has an interesting design -- the windows are sideways into the room, which I'm theorizing is for security purposes -- so snipers couldn't get a clear shot at the guests (not a design feature found in your typical Marriott).
Well, back on the bus, Gus.
Running Thru History
Okay, so the blog post title is misleading -- it should be "Slowly Jogging Thru History," although that's not as action-oriented, even if true.
Just back from a 30 minute run through West Jerusalem, including the City Center, which is a pedestrian mall with shops lining the streets. Very few were open -- it's around 7am here, and the city is just coming to life. It's nice to see busses packed with people, whereas just a few years ago people were afraid to ride the busses because of suicide bombers. More than a few people have remarked that they used to be afraid to even stop at a light next to a bus, for fear they might get blown up too.
Anyhow, I make it a habit to try and go for a run or two anytime I'm in one of the great cities of the world (and I'd say Jerusalem qualifies). It's doubly inspiring. The only downside of running here is that the city truly consists of hills, so I ran up a hill, down a hill, and then back up a hill. By the time I got to the King David Hotel, I was happy that gravity works and it was all downhill from there!
Just back from a 30 minute run through West Jerusalem, including the City Center, which is a pedestrian mall with shops lining the streets. Very few were open -- it's around 7am here, and the city is just coming to life. It's nice to see busses packed with people, whereas just a few years ago people were afraid to ride the busses because of suicide bombers. More than a few people have remarked that they used to be afraid to even stop at a light next to a bus, for fear they might get blown up too.
Anyhow, I make it a habit to try and go for a run or two anytime I'm in one of the great cities of the world (and I'd say Jerusalem qualifies). It's doubly inspiring. The only downside of running here is that the city truly consists of hills, so I ran up a hill, down a hill, and then back up a hill. By the time I got to the King David Hotel, I was happy that gravity works and it was all downhill from there!
A Really Quick Update
Well, I finally got reliable wireless, so I've downloaded the first three posts of the trip. I'm still more than one day behind, and I'm not sure when I will get to upload photos. Anyhow, there are three posts up (read down), and the trip is incredibly fascinating so far (just back from a tour of the Knesset, as well as meetings with four different MKs from four different political parties.) More to follow.
A Shining City On A Hill
Rain had been predicted for today, but instead the sun smiled on our trip during the day. We started with breakfast at the hotel with Ron Dermer, an American-born and raised Israeli citizen who was Chief Strategist to the Netanyahu campaign, and will be working in the new government to improve Israel’s standing in the eyes of the world. As someone who knows American campaigns well, Ron offered extraordinary insight in the Israeli campaigns, providing us with a fascinating inside perspective on some of the challenges of political campaigns in Israel. The first two speakers of the trip have been amazing.
We then boarded the bus, which took us on the short and familiar route to the Jaffa Gate. There, we sat just outside the gate and enjoyed the sunshine as Ian gave us a brief yet in-depth history of Israel. We first cut into the Christian Quarter and into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which was built around Golgotha. We ascended the stairs to Golgotha (the rock visible through cutaways), seeing both the Catholic and the Orthodox Chapels – including the spot thought to be where Jesus was crucified. We then walked past the stone covering the stone on which He was laid and prepared for burial, and then the past what is believed to be His tomb. It’s amazing to be here after years of hearing and reading the story of His death and resurrection, and also to realize how close together everything is.
After that, we walked down David Street (yes, there’s a lot of stuff named after the guy, but to be fair, he’s the Israeli equivalent of George Washington, only slightly longer ago.) “Street” is used loosely – it’s a narrow passageway with small shops on either side, so as you are walking through the crowded areas, there is food, spices, souvenirs, and genuine tourist junk surrounding you. Reason enough to keep walking.). We ducked down an alleyway, up a flight of metal steps, and then came out on a roof with a view of most of the city - including the Dome of the Rock, El Aqsa Mosque, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of the Redeemer, and the Western Wall.
Ian also pointed out the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethesmane, and some of the Moslem areas of the outlying city. All of Jerusalem was laid out around us.
(Note to travelers – if you go to Jerusalem, use a professional guide for part of the trip if at all possible. They will take you places and tell you history much more easily than any guidebook can. It’s also interesting how many signs are tri-lingual – in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Not all signs are in English though, so it’s not an easy city to get around.)
We then went down to the Wall again, but there was a totally different vibe than from the night before. First, there were many more people there – but our guides allowed us to skip past the security lines (sort of like FastPass at Disney, but yet somehow different too!). Secondly, there were a number of bar mitzah ceremonies going on at the Wall – so there was singing and chanting; the joyous noise of celebration. It was also not nearly as formal feeling as the night before – a wider range of people were at the Wall.
(Interestingly, Israel is a very open society, but men and women must go to separated parts of the Wall, so the bar mitzah celebrations would be held at the wall between the men’s part of the wall and women’s part of the wall so the women could watch, sing, chant, and throw candy – it’s likely they have other roles in the ceremony, but I’m not an expert, so don’t take that as an exhaustive listing.)
We then went next door – still along the wall – and entered what Ian called the most important archaeological site in Israel. We saw the ancient baths, similar to what Mary used prior to entering the temple, as well as the remains of the arch. We then went around to side and sat on the steps that Jesus and others walked up to enter the Temple. All the while, Ian offered us a combination history lesson, Biblical perspective, and insight into why Jerusalem is so important to Jews, Christians, and Moslems alike. He provides a perspective that is not judgemental, and weaves in both stories from the Old and New Testament to weave a tapestry about what we are seeing – both now and in Biblical times.
We exited the city via the Dung Gate (I suppose I need to track down the etymology of that particular name) and boarded the bus for lunch. Yes, all of that was done in just one morning.
We then boarded the bus, which took us on the short and familiar route to the Jaffa Gate. There, we sat just outside the gate and enjoyed the sunshine as Ian gave us a brief yet in-depth history of Israel. We first cut into the Christian Quarter and into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which was built around Golgotha. We ascended the stairs to Golgotha (the rock visible through cutaways), seeing both the Catholic and the Orthodox Chapels – including the spot thought to be where Jesus was crucified. We then walked past the stone covering the stone on which He was laid and prepared for burial, and then the past what is believed to be His tomb. It’s amazing to be here after years of hearing and reading the story of His death and resurrection, and also to realize how close together everything is.
After that, we walked down David Street (yes, there’s a lot of stuff named after the guy, but to be fair, he’s the Israeli equivalent of George Washington, only slightly longer ago.) “Street” is used loosely – it’s a narrow passageway with small shops on either side, so as you are walking through the crowded areas, there is food, spices, souvenirs, and genuine tourist junk surrounding you. Reason enough to keep walking.). We ducked down an alleyway, up a flight of metal steps, and then came out on a roof with a view of most of the city - including the Dome of the Rock, El Aqsa Mosque, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of the Redeemer, and the Western Wall.
Ian also pointed out the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethesmane, and some of the Moslem areas of the outlying city. All of Jerusalem was laid out around us.
(Note to travelers – if you go to Jerusalem, use a professional guide for part of the trip if at all possible. They will take you places and tell you history much more easily than any guidebook can. It’s also interesting how many signs are tri-lingual – in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Not all signs are in English though, so it’s not an easy city to get around.)
We then went down to the Wall again, but there was a totally different vibe than from the night before. First, there were many more people there – but our guides allowed us to skip past the security lines (sort of like FastPass at Disney, but yet somehow different too!). Secondly, there were a number of bar mitzah ceremonies going on at the Wall – so there was singing and chanting; the joyous noise of celebration. It was also not nearly as formal feeling as the night before – a wider range of people were at the Wall.
(Interestingly, Israel is a very open society, but men and women must go to separated parts of the Wall, so the bar mitzah celebrations would be held at the wall between the men’s part of the wall and women’s part of the wall so the women could watch, sing, chant, and throw candy – it’s likely they have other roles in the ceremony, but I’m not an expert, so don’t take that as an exhaustive listing.)
We then went next door – still along the wall – and entered what Ian called the most important archaeological site in Israel. We saw the ancient baths, similar to what Mary used prior to entering the temple, as well as the remains of the arch. We then went around to side and sat on the steps that Jesus and others walked up to enter the Temple. All the while, Ian offered us a combination history lesson, Biblical perspective, and insight into why Jerusalem is so important to Jews, Christians, and Moslems alike. He provides a perspective that is not judgemental, and weaves in both stories from the Old and New Testament to weave a tapestry about what we are seeing – both now and in Biblical times.
We exited the city via the Dung Gate (I suppose I need to track down the etymology of that particular name) and boarded the bus for lunch. Yes, all of that was done in just one morning.
Life Is Old Here
Our first meeting was during dinner Sunday night at the hotel, shortly after our arrival. We met with Dr. Einat Wilf, a Labor candidate in the recent elections. She also serves as a policy and strategy consultant for the party. If just one Labor member choose not to serve (a distinct possibility as of this writing), she would be elevated to the Knesset – sort of like the last baseball player sent down to AAA – also likely to be first brought back up.
(Briefly, Labor was THE dominant party in Israel for the first 30 years of its founding, but as it has become the lead party of the Doves, has fallen onto hard times, holding barely ten percent of the seats in the Knesset.)
She was very frank about the problems facing the party, and the dinner was delicious. Afterwards, a large group of us decided to go for a walk. (As the Iron Tourist, there was no way I was simply going to bed or to the hotel bar without spending time walking around the city my first night there!). Apparently, in previous years you could not go out without security, but the security fence has made life much safer.
So we wandered up King David Street, walked another half block, and then walked through the Jaffa Gate into the Old City. (The rest of Jerusalem is relatively new). Marilyn didn’t want us going through the markets, so we wandered some of the winding, twisting pathways through the Armenian Quarter and then the Jewish Quarter before reaching the Western Wall. (Note – I always thought it was called the Wailing Wall, but apparently that ended with the Six Day War in 1967).
Wandering through the Old City at night is quite inspiring (we were told to never go in the Moslem Quarter at night). There were times when you felt transported back 2,000 years, as the city was silent and dark, and the pathways led here and there, but then we would come upon the equivalent of a convenience store and be reminded that Coca-Cola is available pretty much worldwide. Suddenly we rounded a corner and came upon the lit night view of the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, and El Aqsa Mosque.
We descended down, went through security, and spent a bunch of time at the Western Wall, and I even went underneath into what is the equivalent of cavern-like libraries. Then, we re-gathered as a group and hiked back through the Old City, retracing our steps. Jersualem IS built on a hill, and after walking downhill most of the time from Jaffa Gate to the Western Wall, it was all uphill on the return from the Wall.
On the way back, we stopped at the famed King David Hotel, where several of our party had decamped for drinks. We stayed there till quite late, telling political stories and sharing impressions of the walkabout. Some of us shared some excellent Israeli Pinot Noir. The King David has a famous view of the Old City, and also has signatures of famed guests in stone tile throughout the lobby. Such great names as Churchill, Sadat, Begin, and Thatcher are there. And, then there is the comical, such as Yoko Ono (each tile square is the same size, implying some sort of equivalency that just isn’t right!).
Given that we rode to Jerusalem in the dark and had our walkabout at night, I still don’t feel as though I have a good feel for the city.
(Briefly, Labor was THE dominant party in Israel for the first 30 years of its founding, but as it has become the lead party of the Doves, has fallen onto hard times, holding barely ten percent of the seats in the Knesset.)
She was very frank about the problems facing the party, and the dinner was delicious. Afterwards, a large group of us decided to go for a walk. (As the Iron Tourist, there was no way I was simply going to bed or to the hotel bar without spending time walking around the city my first night there!). Apparently, in previous years you could not go out without security, but the security fence has made life much safer.
So we wandered up King David Street, walked another half block, and then walked through the Jaffa Gate into the Old City. (The rest of Jerusalem is relatively new). Marilyn didn’t want us going through the markets, so we wandered some of the winding, twisting pathways through the Armenian Quarter and then the Jewish Quarter before reaching the Western Wall. (Note – I always thought it was called the Wailing Wall, but apparently that ended with the Six Day War in 1967).
Wandering through the Old City at night is quite inspiring (we were told to never go in the Moslem Quarter at night). There were times when you felt transported back 2,000 years, as the city was silent and dark, and the pathways led here and there, but then we would come upon the equivalent of a convenience store and be reminded that Coca-Cola is available pretty much worldwide. Suddenly we rounded a corner and came upon the lit night view of the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, and El Aqsa Mosque.
We descended down, went through security, and spent a bunch of time at the Western Wall, and I even went underneath into what is the equivalent of cavern-like libraries. Then, we re-gathered as a group and hiked back through the Old City, retracing our steps. Jersualem IS built on a hill, and after walking downhill most of the time from Jaffa Gate to the Western Wall, it was all uphill on the return from the Wall.
On the way back, we stopped at the famed King David Hotel, where several of our party had decamped for drinks. We stayed there till quite late, telling political stories and sharing impressions of the walkabout. Some of us shared some excellent Israeli Pinot Noir. The King David has a famous view of the Old City, and also has signatures of famed guests in stone tile throughout the lobby. Such great names as Churchill, Sadat, Begin, and Thatcher are there. And, then there is the comical, such as Yoko Ono (each tile square is the same size, implying some sort of equivalency that just isn’t right!).
Given that we rode to Jerusalem in the dark and had our walkabout at night, I still don’t feel as though I have a good feel for the city.
Like a Stranger In A Strange Land
It seems like it’s been night for two days. And that’s finally over. It’s nearly 7:30 am Mondayy morning in Jerusalem – which means it is 1:30 am Monday morning in Virginia.
While most of the last two days has been taken up with traveling, it’s still been an eventful time. I am here as a guest of the American Israeli Education Foundation. The AIEF is affiliated with AIPAC, and sponsors trips of influential Americans (and, apparently me) so that we can both see the country and learn more about the unique challenges facing our strong ally.
This is a trip featuring twelve consultants. The Dems are Maura Dougherty, Jim Duffy, Maren Hesla, Tom King, Martha McKenna, Leigh Garland, and Ed Peavy. The GOPers are Aaron Liebowitz, Caryn Eggeraat, Chip Saltsman, Rob Stutzman, and myself.
We are being shepherded around by Marilyn Rosenthal from AIPAC in DC, Tom Sawicki of AIPAC/Israel, and Ian Stern, our American born/Israeli citizen Tour Guide/archaeologist. We also have a security person assigned to hang with us, but he doesn’t have an AK 47 at the ready, and nor is he constantly smoking cigarettes and mumbling about how he can kill a man with a quick move from his pinky, so maybe not every spy book is exactly true to life. But, there’s still a week left.
Drawn together by an interest in politics and life, coupled with a willingness to have some drinks and crack jokes/tell stories, the group already is getting along well – except when I had to threaten Chip and Aaron in the Atlanta T.G.I.F.’s with a fork in the eye if they continued to talk about duck hunting. Caryn and Maren were relieved (not that there was no violence, but that I figured out how to escalate close enough to violence to end the tiresome duck discussion!).
After we all enjoyed a good night’s sleep on the Delta flight over from Atlanta (a shout out to my new friend Ambien!), we landed in Tel Aviv shortly before dusk. Maura had recently been to Iraq for an NDI trip, so she was brought in for additional questioning (apparently, the “I”s have it – if you’ve been to Israel, it’s probably harder to get into Iraq or Iran. I’m guessing an “Iran” stamp on your passport raises red flags in Israel or Iraq. And Indonesia? The mind spins at the possibilities.) Anyhow, after a brief separation when the rest of took our chartered bus from the Airport, across the coastal plane, up into the foothills, and into the hills of Jerusalem, we were all reunited at the highly rated Inbal hotel.
Whoops – time to get dressed and run to breakfast (Yes, I am blogging in my underwear, but I thought that was the point!).
While most of the last two days has been taken up with traveling, it’s still been an eventful time. I am here as a guest of the American Israeli Education Foundation. The AIEF is affiliated with AIPAC, and sponsors trips of influential Americans (and, apparently me) so that we can both see the country and learn more about the unique challenges facing our strong ally.
This is a trip featuring twelve consultants. The Dems are Maura Dougherty, Jim Duffy, Maren Hesla, Tom King, Martha McKenna, Leigh Garland, and Ed Peavy. The GOPers are Aaron Liebowitz, Caryn Eggeraat, Chip Saltsman, Rob Stutzman, and myself.
We are being shepherded around by Marilyn Rosenthal from AIPAC in DC, Tom Sawicki of AIPAC/Israel, and Ian Stern, our American born/Israeli citizen Tour Guide/archaeologist. We also have a security person assigned to hang with us, but he doesn’t have an AK 47 at the ready, and nor is he constantly smoking cigarettes and mumbling about how he can kill a man with a quick move from his pinky, so maybe not every spy book is exactly true to life. But, there’s still a week left.
Drawn together by an interest in politics and life, coupled with a willingness to have some drinks and crack jokes/tell stories, the group already is getting along well – except when I had to threaten Chip and Aaron in the Atlanta T.G.I.F.’s with a fork in the eye if they continued to talk about duck hunting. Caryn and Maren were relieved (not that there was no violence, but that I figured out how to escalate close enough to violence to end the tiresome duck discussion!).
After we all enjoyed a good night’s sleep on the Delta flight over from Atlanta (a shout out to my new friend Ambien!), we landed in Tel Aviv shortly before dusk. Maura had recently been to Iraq for an NDI trip, so she was brought in for additional questioning (apparently, the “I”s have it – if you’ve been to Israel, it’s probably harder to get into Iraq or Iran. I’m guessing an “Iran” stamp on your passport raises red flags in Israel or Iraq. And Indonesia? The mind spins at the possibilities.) Anyhow, after a brief separation when the rest of took our chartered bus from the Airport, across the coastal plane, up into the foothills, and into the hills of Jerusalem, we were all reunited at the highly rated Inbal hotel.
Whoops – time to get dressed and run to breakfast (Yes, I am blogging in my underwear, but I thought that was the point!).
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