Sunday, April 13, 2014

The Africa Cafe

Our final stop for the day with Selwyn was back in Cape Town, where we had dinner together at the Africa Cafe.  Finding parking was hard -- there clearly was something going on for a Thursday night that packed City Centre.

Once we got in, the restaurant was great.  There are three stories and a series of decorated rooms on each level.  Selwyn told us the story of the place -- it had started in a couple's home during apartheid.  The husband is white, and the wife is black.  They wanted a restaurant that celebrated African food.

First came the ritual hand-washing at the table, where the waitress poured warm water over our hands into a bowl.  Then, we enjoyed the 13 course meal of African food.  The courses were not brought one at a time (that would take forever) but instead served family style in bowls/on plates that were brought several at a time.  There were probably three deliveries of food overall.  They serve communal feasts of Ndebele, Xhosa, and Zulu dishes.  If you like a particular dish, you can order more of it.

After eating there, I did check out their ratings on Trip Advisor.  I have to disagree with the somewhat weak rankings.  It was a lot of fun trying the different foods, and Selwyn picked a good Pinotage to go with the meal.  We did not reorder anything, but that's because we were full.  My favorite was the Sticky Chicken Wings, but it was all pretty good.

Towards the end of the meal, the waiters and waitresses came and sang/danced traditional African songs.  It was a good cap to our trip to South Africa.  We got to see Julia, Table Mountain, lions, penguins(!), beautiful wine country, four of the big five, the stark beauty of the Cape of Good Hope, and many other sights we never expected to get to.  We are quite lucky and happy that Julia did Semester at Sea, and that we got to join her for one of the stop.  Just as a reminder, her blog is here.

We would definitely love to go back -- I want to do another safari, actually hike up Table Mountain, and do shark cage diving.  Hopefully Selwyn will still be guiding and we can do the Garden Route.  And we would love it if Maddy and Torie can come with us!

The Winelands and a Township

As we drove deeper and deeper into the Winelands, it was clearly more and more beautiful.  As Selwyn drove (slowly) up to Muratie, the rolling hills were covered in vineyards, and the mountains rose starkly and beautifully above us.

Muratie was founded in 1699 as a farm.  It's an old-school winery, with 50 year old cobwebs in the windows of the small, cool tasting room. It's not the anti-septic copper and brass of the new places.  Instead, it definitely has that Old World charm.

We were able to walk through the area where they were clearing the debris (leaves, etc.) from the grapes, both by hand and by machine.  The grapes were then crushed.  Selwyn talked about the wine making process, and we got to watch different elements of it.  The best view was of the bin where the fermenting wine was being strained and aerated -- while being cooled too.  We talked to a young winemaker from California who was working for three months in South Africa to learn more -- before going back to the States to apply what he learned to the winery where he works.  We also saw the old crushing/fermenting areas.

Then we went to the tasting room.  The white wines didn't do much for me -- although the sparkling wine (champagne) was quite good.  The reds were mixed -- their blended red was very good, so we bought a magnum for just under $40.00 (never fear -- we were able to pack it and get it home safely).

We had lunch at another winery -- Moreson -- as Selwyn regaled us with more tales of his life and of South Africa.  The food was delicious, and the setting was beautiful.  Selwyn advised that the wines are underwhelming, but the restaurant (Bread and Wine) was great.

We then toured through the town of Franschhoek, including a stop at an antique shop.  It has a very impressive collection of antique corkscrews for sale on one wall.  I never thought of it, but corkscrews were also used for other bottles, such as perfume.

Then, in the late afternoon, we went to the Delaire/Graff wine farm.  (South Africans call them wine farms -- there is no difference when I use "winefarm" or "winery.")  Selwyn billed it thusly in an email to me:
This farm is the exact opposite to Muratie in that it represents the modern day wineries all starting up in the winelands.  Besides the fact that the wines on this farm are wonderful the scenery is to absolutely die for.  There are also some amazing artworks on the farm. This simply has to be the one of the most scenic and beautiful winefarms in South Africa. Wonderful experience!!
It is a perfect description.  The owner has spared no expense in building the fanciest new winery/tasting room.  I noted that it is "Las Vegas without the revenue stream."  Apparently, Delaire Graff is owned by a man who made his fortune in diamonds.  There's the beautiful sculptures throughout the property, the water features, and the fancy walls of stacked stone.  It reminded me of the newest casinos on the Strip.

The views are stunning -- it is up on a hill, and in the near distance to both your right and left are two beautiful mountains -- with a longer panoramic view of the winelands valleys with mountains backstopping it. Alas, the pictures don't do justice to the view, although I do like the one I posted of the lavender by the parking lot with the mountain behind it.

The only regret I've got for the day is that we did not go to our favorite South African winery, Thelema, which is right across the street from Graff.  I'm quite happy we went to Graff -- it's definitely a place where we could have spent even more time wandering around, soaking in the views.  The wines we tasted at Graff were good, but no match for Thelema.  My favorite wine for the day was the Ansela van de Caab from Muratie (that's the magnum we purchased).  It's a blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, and Cab Franc.

Californians are not going to want to read this, but the Winelands are more beautiful than Napa.  It would be as though Napa and Arizona were combined.

After Graff, Selwyn drove us through the beautiful university town of Stellenbosch, known as the "Town of Oaks."  Of course, given that the apartheid system was developed in this town, it has a checkered past. Selwyn took pains to point out that not every student supported apartheid -- he was involved in many protests in his years at the university.

The most interesting part of the day came as we drove through one of the townships just outside of Stellenbosch.  The township of Kayamandi is approximately five minutes from Stellenbosch, but light years different.  Afterwards, Carol and I both wished we had done the Kayamandi visit in more depth (as Selwyn offers, but you can't do both the wineries and Kayamandi).  Selwyn coaches youth soccer in Kayamandi, and is involved in the township in other ways.

Many of the houses were as small as a two horse trailer and had no running water.  They were stacked right next to each other.  A house that Selwyn helped build that has water and electricity is actually rented out by the owner so she has more money -- she lives in the smaller shack next door.  The one big house -- modern -- in the township is owned by the politician.  Hmmm. . .no corruption there!

Selwyn noted that he pays a 1.5% restitution tax that is supposed to go to home building in the townships. Since Zuma has come into power four years ago, Selwyn has not seen one new house built in the program. The ANC leadership isn't was it was in the Mandela and Mbeki days.

Selwyn stopped and chatted about soccer with some young kids -- probably ages 8-10.  Many people were headed to church.  I did not take pictures -- it stuck me as inappropriate.

It was not a long drive back to Cape Town.  The city itself is beautiful, but there is not much to do right there (although the V&A Waterfront is great).  Instead, the reason Cape Town is wonderful is just how close the city is to the spectacular Cape of Good Hope and the Winelands (as well as other areas, such as the Garden Route, that we did not get to).


Saturday, April 12, 2014

When I'm Mobile. . .Toast and Tea

For our first stop with Selwyn, he took us to a local food market/tea room.  The market sold most local foods prepared by farmers.  We spent some time tasting South African beef jerky, called biltong.  The different varieties were excellent, and it was fun to watch some ground up right in front of us.  We’re not beef jerky fans, and biltong is definitely tastier.  

He showed us some other products, including the great looking bread.  It’s sold unsliced.  One funny part is that the bread is handled by, um, human hands.  We picked up the unwrapped fresh loaves with our hands, rather than having to use plastic.  While the germ-ophobes who frequent Whole Foods might not believe it, there is NOT a plague of South Africans dying from hand-touched bread.  (AIDS is a different story, but since George W. Bush did more work than anyone on that issue, it’s a story you won’t hear about – the success in bringing Africa back from that abyss.)

We then walked into the tea room, where we tried some Rooibos Tea, which is all the rage in South Africa.  Carol liked it, but I’m not a fan of tea or coffee.  It was better than most tea I’ve had, but still not my. . .cup of tea!

Selwyn

My friend Sam Van Voorhis has been around the world twice.  So when Sam gives me travel advice, I take it.  I had arranged a private tour for Carol and I of the Winelands for our last day in South Africa with Sam’s favorite travel guide, Selwyn Davidowitz.

We felt modestly bad because we were abandoning the group tour of the Winelands, but Selwyn was a fascinating fellow who gave us a real feel for life in South Africa –culturally, politically, and, very importantly, food and wine.

He picked us up at the hotel at 9am.  And we went nowhere.  Fast.  He spent a good 15-20 minutes filling us in on what we would be doing that day, South Africa in general, and the greater Cape Town area.  Selwyn is an excellent guide – he loves to talk, and everything he talked about was pretty fascinating.  I also realized we probably did not want to go to the wineries too early in the day, or Carol and I would be sleeping by 2 pm.

Once we did get going, Selwyn kept up his interesting stories.  Carol and I followed along, whilst hoping we did not die.  Selwyn’s driving style can best be called “texting teenager distracted” at an incredible rate of speed (for a snail).  Cars were zipping past like we were telephone poles standing still.  I flashed back to Stefano, our driver from Rome to Pompeii.  Selwyn may have been a slow driver, but at least his stories were very interesting.  And that made it all okay.

Selwyn’s led a very interesting life.  He was an engineer who ran a clothing business, then became a card counter gambler who was one of three who ran the MIT gambling ring chronicled in the movie “21" – which was based on the Ben Mezrich book, “Bringing Down the House.” (If you haven’t read every one of Mezrich’s books, you need to).  Now he guides because he likes to show people the best of the Cape Town area.  He won the Guide of the Year (an international award) a number of years ago, and has quite the zest for life.

This is from his website, (yes, he IS as energetic as his website implies) and he talked about all of these at one point or another during the day.  Under hobbies and interests, he lists:

BEING PART OF BUILDING THE WONDERFUL, NEW SOUTH AFRICA
Sports mad – you name it I’ve played it, although these days I mainly watch it
Avid cook - Love concocting wonderful meals
Keen wine collector and wine-taster
Opera, ballet, theatre and movie lover (Glen’s note: I don’t believe we talked about that)
Enjoy anything to do with computers with special interest being the internet
Keen long distance swimmer who has swum the Cape Town - Robben Island crossing twice (Glen’s             note: he’s getting ready to do it again)
Have a special affinity for Cape Town, its people and its history
Helping the people of the township of Kayamandi (See township tours)
Love traveling and have traveled extensively. I have had a foot on every continent at some time or other

Anyhow, he’s a true Renaissance Man – not a typical tour guide at all.  He did ignore my humor when he asked, “do you know why I like guiding?”  I drily noted, “because you like to talk?” but he ran right past that.

All kidding aside, Selwyn may have been quirky, but he was great.  He was very focused on getting us a more in-depth feel for South Africa than you can get ten days there.  He was great answering our questions – which were many and varied.

(I get it, we went to Cape Town and on safari.  That’s like some foreign tourist saying “we’ve been to San Francisco and Yellowstone, so we understand America.”  We don’t understand SA – but we do have a better feel for it, in large part thanks to the day we spent with Selwyn).

A while after doing 40 in a 60, we pulled into our first stop.


Pictures from the Winelands

Rainbow from our hotel room balcony.

Muratie is an old-school winefarm.

I've met their ancestors from a few years ago.

Selwyn guiding, in the winery.

Sorting.

Separating the leaves.

Aerating and cooling during fermentation.

Old school.

The view from the Graff winery.

Even I could frame this shot.

The view from Graff's toward Thelema winery.

Art for art's sake.  Or for
the sake of a tax write-off.

We did get to see some leopards.


Cheetahs sometimes do prosper!

Thursday, April 10, 2014

No Spotted Leopards Spotted

The third and final day of the safari trip was almost anti-climatic.  But, that’s the crapshoot nature of, uh, nature.  It is not always where you want it to be, and it sure does not always act as you hope it does.

The birds crying in alarm from the area across from the lodge brought hope to the rangers that a leopard or lion was in that area.  So we saddled up and all four vehicles fanned out in that direction.  We could find the brainless birds because they nervously cried out (which should also give away their position, I would think?).  But, despite cris-crossing the bush, we never saw a leopard or lion.

Two of the rangers even got out on foot to try and “spot” (sorry, I couldn’t resist) the hoped-for leopard or the settle-for lion, but to no avail.  We drove around, with not much to see.  Finally, Justin decided to take us far away from there in hopes of spotting other animals.  That didn’t work well, until we got word that some lions had been spotted far away.

On our way to the lions, we stopped for a bit to watch an elephant who was hanging out, eating by himself.  There were some other elephants theoretically nearby, but we all voted to see the lions rather than find the elephants.

I had assumed, given the sheer number of birds we saw on the previous morning drive, that we would see a lot this morning drive as well, but we did not see nearly as many.  There were still a goodly variety, but I was surprised by the difference in just one morning!

Just before getting to the lions, we came upon two tiny gazelles that I believe (but am not certain) were Steenboks, based on a tip from Parent Program parent Kyra Bannister, who was in our vehicle (or, I suppose, we were in hers) and we really enjoyed going on safari with her and her daughter, Brina.

(As mentioned in a previous post, all of the folks in the vehicle were great to be – although how could it be otherwise.  We were in South Africa, with our kids – scratch that, young adult offspring – on safari.  You’d have to be in a pretty bad place right then to not enjoy the heck out of it.)

We came upon the eight lions.  (I did ask Justin if the ranger who finds them gets to take a lot of pride in doing so. Not surprisingly, the entire vehicle groaned – as did the people in it!).  They were resting, this time sated by what had clearly been a big kill and feast since we last saw these same lionesses.  They had put on weight, although there were no male lions around to reassure them that nobody would notice the extra weight and that they still look great in that outfit.

The most remarkable part was, not far away, several zebra, wildebeests and multiple impalas were dining away.  They knew the lions were there, and the lions knew they were there, but since the lions were full, and there was no element of surprise, there were no Discovery Channel moments.  It was like a DMZ in the veld.

After a while, we headed back toward the lodge – there was breakfast, checkout, hangout, and fly out to come.  On the way back, we stopped for four dwarf mongoose who were playing in the road.  Dan, sitting behind us with his daughter Claire, mused aloud – “Dwarfs.”  So, I had to get one last quip in – so I slowly noted, “hmmm, I would have thought there would be seven.”  I think people didn’t know whether to laugh or cry, so I’m pretty sure they did both!

After breakfast and checkout, we had some time to kill before going to airport, so I downloaded photos, and stumbled upon the lucky video I took of the lioness playfully rubbing heads with two others, and then half wrestling, half stretching, play with one of them.  It’s posted a little further down – so take a look in full screen (we had to compress it to get it on the blog, so the quality is good, but not as great as the original – still fun to view though).

After the hour flight to Jo-burg (when you fly through a city four times in ten days, you can call it by its nickname!), we flew back to Cape Town (nickname: The Mother City – not very catchy!).  The hotel check-in  process at the Radisson Blu was relatively easy for such a large group, so that was painless.  Unfortunately, the room we went into was half the size of the room we had the first four nights in Cape Town, so that was a bummer.  But, at least the room had great views to Robben Island and to the south.

In fact, our second to last morning there we had a great view of a double rainbow over the Atlantic to the South.  So we had that going for us.

(If you are looking for a hotel in Cape Town, I would highly recommend the Radisson Blu – a great setting not too far from the V&A Waterfront, and an easy cab ride to City Centre.  If you want to walk everywhere, however, it’s not the place to be – it’s a tad far from City Centre. One highlight was having breakfast al fresco hard by the ocean.)

Julia's Last Day In Cape Town

Dassies are angry dudes, even at the top
of some place as beautiful as Table Mtn.

Their closest living relatives are
the elephants.  I kid you not.

The foggy views still allowed for beautiful views.
Does it remind anyone of Ireland?

Turn around, yell, and get a good echo.

Enshrouded in fog.

Every so often views would appear.

Lion's Head

Robben Island from Signal Hill

The 12 Apostles

On Signal Hill

The MV Explorer from Signal Hill

The low yellow structure is the Castle
of Good Hope from Signal Hill

Cape Town

A clearer view of the 12 Apostles 

Luvuyo Mandela, Nelson's great grandson, 
gives a hopeful talk at the farewell reception
on board the MV Explorer.

A farewell to Julia

Dinner and a Show

The night we got back to Cape Town from the safari, there was a full parents and students dinner at Marco’s in City Centre (I always want to pronounce it “Cen-truh” for fun, but not everyone gets my humour.)

Marco’s is the first restaurant in Cape Town owned by a black (man, in this case.)  You get one hint as to his name.  We sat at long tables, and I thought the service was quick and the food was good.  Many of us had the ostrich fillet, which seemed a better option than the Senegalese Chicken (word from a reliable source on the African street is that Senegal is NOT famous for its food)

We all received two drink coupons.  Julia and I wisely chose the beer, while Carol went for the wine.  She DID manage to find the one bad wine in South Africa (don’t ask what kind – they poured it and brought it sans bottle).  Helpful tourist hint: when there is no choice of wine, and its built into the price, go with the beer.

There were two highlights to the evening.  The first was the four piece black band, soon accompanied by two attractive black female singers.  The band played a variety of African music and. . .wait for it. . .Elvis.  Yes, we realized we were listening to “I can’t help falling in love with you.”  (My brother Rick’s wedding song – yes Sandy was there too, but I gotta think that pick was his.)  Great song, but a little unexpected.  They did play some other American pop hits too, but mostly the equivalent of African soft rock (think 10CC’s “The Things We Do For Love” – whoops, sorry, my bad you have that song stuck in your head now. Hehehe.)

Like walking in the rain and the snow when there’s no place to go and you’re feelin’ like a part of you is dying.

No, they did not do that song – that’s the example to both give you a sense of the soft pop nature of the music, AND to get it stuck in your head!

Carol had an interesting observation – the sound is, logically, related to a Carribean calypso.  You could certainly hear the similarities to what clearly is a style brought to the New World by slaves, later financially enriching both Harry Belafonte and Jimmy Buffet.    

The other highlight was that Nelson Mandela’s great grandson, Luvuyo, joined the group for dinner.  Carol and I peg him for around 28 years old.  He gave brief remarks on the occasion of his birthday.  He was certainly charismatic, handsome, and you could see his great grandfather’s face in him.  If memory serves, Luvuyo is descended from a daughter in the first of Mandela’s three wives.

The best part came when the women singers got him to dance and then the band had him play their instrument.  A good measure of a person is how well they handle being put on the spot.  He found humour in the situation.  He clearly did not want to be on stage, but he took the risk and received the reward of an ovation.

His involvement with the SAS programme (sorry, South African English spellings in this post appear to be required) came because he is friends with Melissa Bingler, who ran the Parents Trip.

His last two years of high school, he was sent to boarding school in Charlottesville to play basketball.  While there, he got his act together as a student.  Melissa was in charge of student housing at the time, and she has remained in touch with probably eighty percent (by her count) of the students who passed through in her twenty years.

The name of the boarding school is St. Anne’s In the Belfry, which goes by the unfortunate acronym of STAB.  I would think a rebranding campaign is in order, but that’s just me!

After that, others in the group – and other groups, including two young girls – tried their hand at playing the instrument and/or dancing.  It was all in good fun, especially since I didn’t have to get up and try either of the two.  That would have been a catastrophic failure.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

In the Village, the Peaceful Village, the Lion(s) Sleep Tonight


By the way

We were told the unemployment rate in South Africa is 35%.  The February data is actually 24.2%.  That's still amazingly grim.  It's a beautiful country, but I worry about how it can hold together.  It's also possibly closer to 35% -- not sure how they count it.

Cape Town appears to be booming, but even there unemployment is 17% (for the province).

Sabi Sabi -- Final Morning Drive

A waterbok -- the hairiest of the boks.

Another elephant happy after
seeing good poll numbers


Vehicle companion Kyra Bannister makes the
case that these are Steenboks.  Tiny antelope
with large ears. The better to hear lions with.

This zebra, and other animals, were
not far at all from the pride of lions.

Ah, the sleep of the well-fed.

Taking the morning off.

A rare sign of movement.

Petro, our tracker.

A good look at our room from the outside. 

A prime example of the
wild African stump.

Sabi Sabi Evening Drive -- Day Two

I know there are a lot of posts with photos in a row here, and not as many descriptive posts.  That's the result of the computer troubles, as I got far behind on posting photos.

So, here's more photos!

Warthogs may look ugly, but they taste worse.

Interestingly, the water monitor is not listed by
Wikipedia as being in Africa.  This one
would have to argue with that entry.

An afternoon drive thru the bush veld.  Justin
has the wheel, while Petro is in the scout chair.

My seat row companions.

Dwarf mongoose.  Shouldn't there be seven of them?

Cape buffalo -- and we bagged 80% of the Big Five

They spent most of their time eating.

Yes, he was really that close.



Sunset over the bush.



The gang from vehicle E2