Final Thoughts

Since this was a group trip, I turn it over to the others to have their say in answering five questions.  Here's what I have so far, and will add more if I get additional responses.

1.             Which day was your favorite hike, and why?

Shelley:   Hiking the Primitivo was my favorite. It felt like it might have felt when Alphonse II travelled it. It was so green, so beautiful, so spiritual. The birdsong combined with the sound of the stream over the rocks just made it a special place.

Ava:  The second day on the Primitivo.  I loved the secluded nature, the canopy of the trees and the feeling that we were walking in the footsteps of the early pilgrims.  It was so quiet.  I also loved walking up the steep terrain and then seeing the tremendous view at the top.

Ellen: My favorite hike was the first day along the coast with such magnificent scenery on one side and cows in their pasture on the other side.  They didn't seem to mind us marching through.  The other was the hike on the Primitivo up the steep hill amoungst the wild horses.  The view at the top was simply amazing!  I enjoyed chatting with our group of pilgrims and Aner and Bea are wonderful guides.  They gave us such insights, things to see that we would have surely missed on our own.  

Arthur: My favorite hike is the first coastal Camino Del Norte hike.

It was wonderful along the coast.  Beautiful and quiet, gorgeous with vistas that were breathtaking.

Carol: Second day of the Northern Route - beautiful views, dinosaur footprints!

Claudia: I loved the rugged beauty of the Camino del Norte ... reminded me of the Oregon coast.  I also enjoyed the gentle beauty of the Camino Primitive and thinking of King Alphonse.  But the whole concept of The Camino came together for me when we were hiking on the Camino Frances.  With the first two, I could have been hiking anywhere.  But with the Camino Frances I felt like I was on The Camino.  I enjoyed seeing the other pilgrims ... their messages .... their back packs ... the cafes and hostels along the way.  There was a festiveness and camaraderie which was a privilege to witness and partake in.

Jim: All of the above. I never heard of Bilboa before the Camino. It is a beautiful city.  It reminded  me of Pittsburgh with its surrounding hills and rivers. The economic story is also similar. Pittsburgh and Bilboa recovered from the loss of its  manufacturing base and became a very livable city. The dinner and wine was excellent. We learned to like dinner at 8:oo. I enjoyed hiking along the coast on day two; the cows and occasional bull did not seen to mind our invading their domain. The ancient art in the caves was a highlight of Ellen's visit, she being the archeologist in the family. I was told by a friend that the cathedral in Oviedo was not to be missed; she was right. Camino Primitivo was one of the highlights for me..I enjoyed the hiking, the tranquility, the natural beauty , the hills and the fantastic views from the top oh those hills. Also enjoyed the haunted monastery and the general store where Ellen bought a bronze  cow bell. Now she must decide what to do with it. Touring the ruins of the Roman fort and visiting  the museum were things we never would have done outside of the tour. Although the cathedral in Santiago was magnificent ,   I was somewhat disappointed by the commercialism surrounding it. I was not surprised I suppose.  Ellen filmed the swinging of the Botafumeiro and we both visited the tomb of St James the Apostle. We did not, however, hug his statute. Finisterre  was also a highpoint of my trip. Imaging standing where pilgrims stood centuries before the Christian era, staring at the end of the earth. I visited the church where the elderly cloistered  nuns sang an abbreviated mass. Not too many folks attended and I could only think that this singing will  disappear as the nuns slowly age.

  

2.             What was your favorite historical/cultural activity (cave, castro, cathedral, Lugo walls, etc.)?

Ava:  I loved the cave art, and the remarkable images so well preserved.  But I have to say that the cathedral in Oviedo was just tremendous.  I was impressed by the church treasures and relics on display, such as the shroud of Jesus (or second shroud after Turin) and the jar from the wedding of Cana.  I came in somewhat skeptical and left a believer.

Jim: Ellen votes for the caves; I vote for the San Salvador Cathedral, with the haunted monastery coming in second.

Shelley: Tie: the cave and the 12^th century church that was near the “general store” we visited. Both are things that I could have never seen if travelling on my own or with a larger group.

Carol: Loved them all but a tie between the cave and the castro.  It always amazes me the ability of people through out the ages to create beauty and utility without complex tools and technology - just the desire to create.

Arthur: I loved the seeing the Ark from the Oveido museum – sort of like the Arc of the Covenant from the Indiana Jones movie?  The monastery/church (with the grocery store key) was great- I loved how off the beaten path and undercover it was.  Additionally, that little grocery store Aner where obtained the key was great- off beat but a wonderful store where I could see some of the goods the locals bought- like the solar electrical fence they used.

Ellen: My favorite historical activity was, of course, the Caves Paintings.  Just Amazing! to be standing in the same spot where prehistoric peoples left their artistic expressions for us to see.

Claudia: I vote with the Altamira Cave!  Especially because our 6th grade granddaughter was studying it in school the same week we visited it.      Also the diplodocus foot print!  His feet were certainly big!   The Cathedral at Oviedo .... the small shroud and the water jug.  I was also surprised at how deeply I was impressed by seeing the Botafumeira!  I also noticed that everyone was suitably reverent during the mass, but when the Botafumeria came out, all the cameras appeared.  Wonderful that in this modern age the simple swinging of an incenser could captivate us.

  

3.            What was your favorite food?

Carol: The seafood.  Hard to admit this but really enjoyed the octopus.  Never have been fan before but it was delicious!

Claudia: Grilled veggies.    Also the quince with local cheese. Yum!

Ava:  Lunch at the restaurant after the first hike on the Primitivo.  The Spanish omelette was just delicious.  The Spanish wines in general never disappointed.

Arthur: The farewell dinner, the steak was great.  I loved the “cheesecakes”  The figs and the grapes from the farmstay was my favorite though.

Ellen: Favorite food - tapas! lots of everything.  I even ventured to try some things I never had before, like sardines and squid, yum!

Jim: The food was outstanding. I enjoyed the tapas with a little taste of a lot of things.  I particularly liked the fresh vegetables and tomatoes. I think the Supreme Court ruled years age that a tomato was a fruit. (Editor's note: Reminder, Jim's a lawyer!)  The wine of course also enhanced the meal.

Shelley: This may be the toughest question. For snacks, I vote for the bread, quince jam and cheese combo. Otherwise, I just have to say the seafood: The variety, the freshness, the abundance of the mussels, octopus, squid, hake, cod, scallops, etc.

4.            Which was your favorite hotel/manor house?

Shelley: The farmhouse outside of Lugo. The sisters were wonderful, and it was such a great night of good food and good fellowship.

      Ellen: My favorite overnight was at the manor house, Casa Longarela.  Beautiful restoration.  I also loved the Hotel San Francisco.

Claudia: The farm house when we spontaneously toured each other's rooms.  The manor house.    Both b/c it was lovely to have just us in residence.  And the San Francisco monastery.

Ava:  The San Francisco Monastery in Santiago.  I loved how it combined and honored the architecture and older elements (even the see through floors) with modern touches such as glass elevators.  The room had a bench as you walked in (so you can place your coat and shoes for easy reach), and featured three windows with shutters.  It was just charming.  And the breakfast was superb.  

  

Carol: Casa Longarela

Jim: The manor house, but all of the hotels, etc. were excellent.

Arthur: For me, it was a tie between the farm stay and the monastery at Santiago.

Both were very charming- I loved the charming gardens/the food rewards just about the same as the architecture and charm of the monastery.  Plus, I took advantage of the swimming pools at both places.

5.             What did you learn about yourself on the trip?  OR What surprised you most?

Jim: I learned that retirement was not necessarily a dirty  word. I was afraid that I would not have anything to do if I stopped going to the office.  Now, I realize that there is a lot of the world to see and a lot of things to do,  people to meet, and that I have more years behind me then I have in front of me. A closing comment: Aner and Beatriz were great guides, did a great job in leading us on the Camino and  who obviously used their influence with the Almighty to provide such great weather.  You were all great traveling companions. I felt  a spiritual quickening on the El Camino and I hope that all of you did  so as well.

.  

Ava:  What surprised me most is how much I enjoyed being led around (I usually do all the organizing).  Aner and Bea were wonderful guides, thoughtful and informed and I thought the itinerary was so carefully designed and executed.  I was never bored.  I also was surprised how easy it was to walk each day, settling into a routine and just relaxing and talking to people about their lives.  That is the magic of the Camino.

Arthur: I learned that it is important to think that ending a journey means that there is to be a new beginning.   We should think of that very important aspect at every juncture in our lives.

1     Shelley:  Ok, so at Carol’s suggestion, I won’t go introspective here, but I am going to answer in a different way. Group travel comes with its own set of challenges. I was surprised that everything went so well. Everyone was on time and respectful and took care of each other. People moved from group to group and got to know each other. That just made all of the other great things about the trip (the hiking, the food, the things we got to see) even better.

     Claudia: What did I learn about me?  I loved being with our group, getting to know others.  But as an introvert, I would reach a point where I was done .... I was grateful for the oyo lunches and dinners.  I needed them to re-charge my battery! In my Bible study (Gospel of Matthew) we just studied the calling of John and James, sons of Zebedee.  I paid closer attention b/c I had just been to James' final resting place.  It was like God connecting the dots for me. The Alpha and Omega.  Or the Omega and the Alpha!  I think Aner and Bea are great guides.  I appreciate their care, professionalism, knowledge and humor.  They make a good team.  

       Carol: Discovering that there was a face shroud similar to the Shroud of Turin in the Oviedo Cathedral. Never heard of it before.

1. Ellen: I was surprised at how peaceful and beautiful the hiking trails were.  No one seemed in a hurry and all along the way everyone wishing each other "Buen Camino".  I was happy to be a peligrino on the road to Santiago if only for a few days.  It was also nice to disengage from the happenings around the world for a short time, and just be in the moment.  How often do we get to do that.

The Lighthouse At The End Of The World

After the sacred rocks, it was pretty much downhill from there.  As we turned the corner and got dramatic views looking down at the lighthouse, the whole Atlantic Ocean was stretched out to the right.

After spending a week in Maine (niece’s wedding, with sightseeing added on), I will say the lighthouse did not measure up to those Down East lighthouses.  That’s a quibble on my part, because just being there on the point, with kilometer mark 0 on the camino signpost, was pretty neat.

We had a superb lunch at a restaurant in Finisterre, before climbing on the bus to head back to the San Francisco Hotel Monumental in Santiago.  A nap and a shower later, we were refreshed.  Carol went shopping whilst I worked and blogged.

The group went out for a celebration/final dinner.  Carol was surprised when I started with the Albarino (white Galacian wine), and then transitioned to the red (tinto) for my steak. Best beef of the trip!  After dinner, a bunch of us repaired to the hotel bar for some last time together.  And so it ended; a great trip.

The Lighthouse, And Fade To Black

Heading down to the lighthouse.

At kilometer 0 for the Camino.

One last picture over the Atlantic.

Pedras Santas Pics

Aner explains about the rocks

They listened intently.  I listened,

but enjoyed the view as well.

Aner takes our picture.

Our hands on the sacred rock.

Ditto.

Some Group Photos by Aner

The last day, at the beach

Dinosaur prints.

Mount of Joy

Puerto del Palo -- nearly 3800 feet up.

Pedras Santas -- the sacred rocks

Our tree circle, post quiet.

The Sacred Rocks At The End Of The World

After the beach, we started up the hill to go over to the still unseen lighthouse.  As we climbed, the camino led through a small village.  We stopped in at the leather maker’s shop.  His work was incredible, but nothing jumped out at Carol or I to buy.  

We enjoyed browsing the shop, or at least to the point where I cracked my head when departing out of the too low door.  I had ducked, but apparently the average height of man is higher than when the place was built.

Tromping past our last horrios, there was also some very neat public art on a wall.  (Side note: it is a little depressing how much graffiti there is Spain now.  Carol said it is much more than when she was last here in 2009.  Of course, an employment rate estimated at 70%+ for those under age 30 likely contributes to the problem.  What we saw in Finisterre is not graffiti, but even that small town had a lot.

After heading steadily up, we came to the final climb of the seven days of hiking.  It was an appropriately steep (why do anything the easy way), albeit short up.  It’s reminiscent of a short black diamond slope out west, but instead of skiing slowly down it, I hiked slowly up it.

Close to the top, we stopped to enjoy the cheese, quince, and bread.  I saw a big stone pile a little further up, and climbed that for great views.  Looking south, I hoped I could see clear to Portugal, but that was not the case.  On the other hand, we definitely want to visit Lisbon and other parts of the country some day.  It, like many other places, is on the list.

We went a bit higher up to the sign pointing to the famed Pedras Santas, and took the short side trail to it.  A famed rock, it rocks when you sit on it.  More importantly, it was used long ago to celebrate major events, as the sun disappeared in the west for the night.  It was important in Roman times, and was a major pagan site. 

The Hill At The End Of The World

Village wall art.

The final two horrios we hiked past.

From pretty far up the hill, back down to the beach.

A robin.

I was about to write "Aner cuts the cheese"

but that is something an 11 year old boy

would do, so I won't.

Boats in the Finisterre harbor.

Carol and Bea

Views to the South.  I always had to remind

myself that the Atlantic Ocean is to the West!

A Random Photos of Us

On the beach

On the coastal/northern route

Ditto

Final day on the beach.

The Beach At The End Of The World

Aner took us to the backdoor way to the lighthouse that marks the official end of the camino, in Finisterre (“finish of the earth”).  Oh, there are points further west along the Atlantic, such as in Portugal, England, and of course Ireland, but between the ancient Roman reverence for this spot, and the tradition of pilgrims to visit here, none are more famous.

First we went to what is normally a very rough beach between two hills that rise dramatically out of edge of the land.  There are rocks with waves crashing dramatically.  One section had fog sitting just above the water, giving off a beautiful, spooky vibe.  The beach is beautiful.  A dog played in the short surf.  As a lone surfer tried to catch waves, we enjoyed ourselves with the uncharacteristically warm, sunny October day, walking down to the water and through the little river that ran from point to point in the sand.

Because of the normally rough undertow, this beach is rarely used for swimming.  It is just not safe, although that day’s surf was pretty calm.

The sand is immaculate and the beach is pristine.  It was sublime. 

The start of our last hike

Heading west from here means hitting the New World.

Beach Party!

Came upon me wave on wave.

Note the cool fog in the middle of the picture.

We enjoyed our frolic on the beach.

The Spanish Definition of Whole Chickens Is Different Than Ours.

Our first stop on Saturday, the last day, was over at the Santiago market.  We wound our way through the quiet city’s ancient streets.  The market is everything you would hope it would be.  Yes, we had been to markets in San Sebastian (okay), Oviedo (really good), and now Santiago (excellent).

I never get tired of it.  The market is both outside (primarily vegetables), and then in six buildings.  Aner was buying cheese for a snack later in the day, and so the cheesemonger gave him slices of other cheeses for us to taste.  As could be expected, some people like cheeses that others did not, and vice versa.  The two cheeses I liked most were the best (Editor’s Note: Just.  Stop.)

A purveyor of beef and hams was also selling his homemade local wine, and I was tempted to buy it.  Alas it was three bottles for 12 Euros, and I didn’t want to bring that much wine back to the States.  That increases the risk of breakage, as well as the weight of our already heavy bags.  Now, of course, I regret not checking to see if he would sell me one bottle for 5 Euros or so.

We saw ridiculously large slabs of beef.  The kind Rocky would punch in the meat locker.  And, I swear that the 2.5 foot long ribs were from the set of the Flintstones.  (Editor’s Note: You do realize that was a cartoon?  Blogger: Another cherished childhood memory smashed.  Thanks.)

The highlight may well have been the chickens, however.  They came whole, as in with the feet and head still attached.  We buy whole chickens in the States, and they have no feet, neck, or head.  The Spanish will use those parts in soup stock.  It occurred to me I had never seen a whole dead and plucked chicken before.  No, I was not grossed out.  Just hungry for chicken.

In the seafood building, there were stunning large crabs, big shrimp, and, yes, even Percebes (these were small too).  The fish was fresh, and I knew why the fishmonger was showing the monk fish belly up, with the guts showing (to prove it is fresh!).

Next time I’m in Spain, we’re going and buying some provisions at the local market.

The Market in Santiago

Fred Flintstone used to eat these.

Yabba, Dabba, Do!

Okay, so this photo is a bit cheesy.

Action shot of cheese tasting at La Cheeserie!

This cheese is kind of a big wheel.

I haven't bought chicken with feet, neck and head

still attached since 19. . .well, 19never.

Slabs o' beef.

Huge crab.  One of them is staring right at you.