(Life advice to young guys reading this -- it never hurts to suck up to your wife!)
Even though we had driven up to Big Sky yesterday in the afternoon, the drive back down to Yellowstone in the early morning (we left around 6:15 am) was pretty neat. We didn't see any wild animals (Carol and the girls pretty much slept, and I was driving), but there was the beauty of about 30 horses running along the fence line next to the highway. The chill of frost on the ground at 32 degrees. The sun slowly making its way up into the sky, unveiling the beauty of the cliffs and mountains to the west.
Breakfast at the Running Bear Pancake House was tasty (not as good as Carol's pancakes), and we got over to meet our guide, Gibb Snyder, at Alpen Guides just in time at 8pm.
Gibb is totally different than the guides we had in Jackson Hole for our various activities. First, he's probably twice their age (my guess is 55), and he's much more the grizzled vet. At the same time, like those younger guides, he's very friendly, easy to talk to, and full of interesting information about the park, the animals, and the various features. He drove our Suburban, which was good, because he knew where he was going. This way I could listen to him without having to focus on driving.
Our first stop was at one of Yellowstone's thermal areas, with fumaroles spewing steam and gases right by the side of the road. It was pretty amazing, and given the early morning, we had the place to ourselves.
The next stop was much bigger, and shows how wild Yellowstone is. Norris Geyser Basin is like nothing I've ever seen before -- and may never see anything like it again. It's like another world, with nearly 200 geysers spreading across the hillsides and vales. The photos below don't completely do it justice, so if you haven't been, Norris is more interesting than Old Faithful (no disrespect). It looks like the earthly entrance to Hell.
The place was crowded with tour bus groups, but at the same time, we had parts of the boardwalk to ourselves. By the way, don't leave the boardwalk, as morons occasionally get badly burned or even die when they get too close or fall into the geysers.
We traveled east in the park, with a drive through the Virginia Cascade on the old road. The next stop was the Lower and Upper Falls of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River (that's a lengthy name!). Like everyone else, we marveled at the grandeur of the two Falls, including the iconic view from Artist's Point.
Traveling south along the eastern part of the Grand Loop Road, we saw a bunch of what Gibb called "wolfies" -- people hanging out near the road watching for wolves. And sure enough, there was a pack way off in the distance on the other side of the river.
There were at least three black wolves, one white wolf, and two yearlings. They were visible to the naked eye, but easier to watch through the binoculars or my giant camera lens. The pictures below, taken at a 600mm focal length, shows just how far across the river/meadow they are. Very cool -- even grizzled Gibb was excited to see the wolves out and about.
The wolves cooperated -- they moved behind a stand of trees just as we got there, but then came back out and started playing in the open meadow.
Next up were bison -- probably 70-80 or so. That involved a hike down towards the river to get closer for pictures. They were still some distance away, but majestic to watch -- especially when they rolled in the dust to cool off.
Heading toward lunch, traffic moved slowly, but Gibb was able to get us into a turnout right next to some bison -- literally just out the door. After seeing them several times from far away, it was very cool seeing them right up close and personal.
My daughters thoughtfully implored me not to get out of the SUV. I appreciated their concern, but it also strikes me that they must think I am a bit of a moron, because that's the only kind of person who would get out of the car right next to a 1,500 lb bison (he was not fully grown). Eventually the bison wandered away, because he was hanging out with a female bison who might or might not have been interested in him (there were some 2,000 lb. bison bulls there as well).
Later, although I'm not sure when, Gibb and the ladies in the car saw a coyote, but I never could pick it up and see it. We also saw Sandhill Cranes, which are huge, beautiful birds.
Breakfast at the Running Bear Pancake House was tasty (not as good as Carol's pancakes), and we got over to meet our guide, Gibb Snyder, at Alpen Guides just in time at 8pm.
Gibb is totally different than the guides we had in Jackson Hole for our various activities. First, he's probably twice their age (my guess is 55), and he's much more the grizzled vet. At the same time, like those younger guides, he's very friendly, easy to talk to, and full of interesting information about the park, the animals, and the various features. He drove our Suburban, which was good, because he knew where he was going. This way I could listen to him without having to focus on driving.
Our first stop was at one of Yellowstone's thermal areas, with fumaroles spewing steam and gases right by the side of the road. It was pretty amazing, and given the early morning, we had the place to ourselves.
The next stop was much bigger, and shows how wild Yellowstone is. Norris Geyser Basin is like nothing I've ever seen before -- and may never see anything like it again. It's like another world, with nearly 200 geysers spreading across the hillsides and vales. The photos below don't completely do it justice, so if you haven't been, Norris is more interesting than Old Faithful (no disrespect). It looks like the earthly entrance to Hell.
The place was crowded with tour bus groups, but at the same time, we had parts of the boardwalk to ourselves. By the way, don't leave the boardwalk, as morons occasionally get badly burned or even die when they get too close or fall into the geysers.
We traveled east in the park, with a drive through the Virginia Cascade on the old road. The next stop was the Lower and Upper Falls of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River (that's a lengthy name!). Like everyone else, we marveled at the grandeur of the two Falls, including the iconic view from Artist's Point.
The sun through the long pines.
Upper Falls from the Brink.
The Bolger family, and some
dude's butt, at Upper Falls
The Lower Falls &
The Grand Canyon
of Yellowstone From
Artist's Point
Traveling south along the eastern part of the Grand Loop Road, we saw a bunch of what Gibb called "wolfies" -- people hanging out near the road watching for wolves. And sure enough, there was a pack way off in the distance on the other side of the river.
There were at least three black wolves, one white wolf, and two yearlings. They were visible to the naked eye, but easier to watch through the binoculars or my giant camera lens. The pictures below, taken at a 600mm focal length, shows just how far across the river/meadow they are. Very cool -- even grizzled Gibb was excited to see the wolves out and about.
Great White Pelican, Feeding
on the Yellowstone River
Click on the pictures. . .
to see the wolves in the distance.
The wolves cooperated -- they moved behind a stand of trees just as we got there, but then came back out and started playing in the open meadow.
Next up were bison -- probably 70-80 or so. That involved a hike down towards the river to get closer for pictures. They were still some distance away, but majestic to watch -- especially when they rolled in the dust to cool off.
This guy was on our side of
the river, but paid us no mind.
A Dances with Wolves vibe. The
"smoke" isn't a vent, but just
a Bison rolling in the dust.
Some day, when these baby buffalo
get dropped off at college,
their dads will say, "Bye Son!"
The road follows alongside the Yellowstone River, which created the stunning Hayden Valley. Our last stop before lunch was at the Dragon's Mouth Spring (of Geyser, depending). Again, more thermal features, including a huge mud pot of note. The sulfur smell was strong (here and at the other stops), and it's funny, because young kids all had to comment on how bad it smelled, while the adults just got used to it.
The famous Dragon's Mouth Geyser
Objects out the window are
closer than they appear.
My daughters thoughtfully implored me not to get out of the SUV. I appreciated their concern, but it also strikes me that they must think I am a bit of a moron, because that's the only kind of person who would get out of the car right next to a 1,500 lb bison (he was not fully grown). Eventually the bison wandered away, because he was hanging out with a female bison who might or might not have been interested in him (there were some 2,000 lb. bison bulls there as well).
Later, although I'm not sure when, Gibb and the ladies in the car saw a coyote, but I never could pick it up and see it. We also saw Sandhill Cranes, which are huge, beautiful birds.
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