This was to be our third Traveling Spoon experience, and it would be the best of the three. All three have been great, but the fun of the market visit, combined with Yves's friendly personality, and, of course, great Spanish food, puts it as the best. It was great when Don and Jennifer assented to try it, and they enjoyed it as well, even if they didn't put much effort into the cooking part!
We met Yves promptly at 10 am at the La Boqueria market -- the most famous market in Barcelona, right off La Ramblas. Later he told us that this market has the best, freshest selection of food in the city. So, it's not just for tourists. He noted that lots of chefs come to La Boqueria for fresh food for their restaurant, and for inspiration.
He led us around the market. First we hit the seafood counters, and he told us about a lot of the fish and how best to prepare each one. Then we hit the meat counters, and he told us about those options. He was impressed that Carol and I were aware of the three key cuts of Iberian pork, the presa, the pluma, and the secreto.
The seafood and meat purveyors all knew him, and they chatted easily (I assume about the food). Yves prefers to buy from the owners of the counters themselves, rather than employees running the stand of an absentee owner.
Finally, he took us to the fresh fruit and vegetables section, just across the alley from the main market. This section is for local farmers to sell their produce, and Yves highlighted it as the best place to find the freshest, most local produce.
Then, we huddled up and discussed what we wanted to eat. Yves gave us a choice of a fresh whole fish, paella, or tapas. We immediately chose tapas (who wouldn't -- the variety is awesome). He then went back to his favorite stands and purchased the food for the lunch.
The meat stand is impressive, especially with the big presa, pluma, and secreto cuts, the sausages, and of course, the jamon. However, nothing matches the show at the seafood counter. Once he selected the hake to eat, we watched as the woman behind the counter expertly slice it up into hake steaks and additional parts.
Once everything was purchased, including fresh bread, we piled into his car and headed to his house. The whole time, Yves was answering questions and making observations about Spanish food, his interesting life growing up, and how he got into cooking.
Market selfie!
Yves and Carol at the vegetable stand
Yves is buying food, while Carol, Jennifer,
and Don soak up the market atmosphere.
We had never heard of frog melons before the
market visit, but it is obvious why they are so
named. It is a size and shape of an
American football. It were a key part of dessert.
Spices are not big in Spanish culture, so they
don't have the huge spice markets that you
see in countries like Morocco, Turkey, or Burma.
If you are in La Boqueria, buy your seafood
from this lady. If Yves shops here, so should you!
She was a master with that knife.
When we got back to his house, Yves led us upstairs to the rooftop patio for a Cava toast. His house is in the foothills of North Barcelona, providing spectacular views of the city. He’s on a line with Montjuic, with great views of that, as well as to the sea. He lives above Camp Nou, which is the Yankee Stadium of Spanish football. (No need to hear from Real Madrid fans!)
We really enjoyed the views, the cava, and the olives. The weather was perfect, and we were afforded plenty of shade on the patio. It was magic. Yves went back down to the kitchen to lay out the food.
On the patio, enjoying Cava.
Yves was happy to share his philosophy of food.
Part of the view from his rooftop. That's Camp
Nou in the foreground (home of FC Barcelona)
and the Med in the background. Not too shabby!
Next, we tromped back down the stairs to the kitchen. Don in particular, but also Jennifer, expressed their reluctance to help in the food prep and cooking. Yves had laid out the food beautifully on the kitchen table, but it was more than visual. Function followed form in this case, as the food was easily accessible without crowding up the kitchen work areas.
I was put to work searing the presa, which is an amazing cut of meat from an Iberian pig. We’d had it before (if you see presa, secreto, or pluma on a menu, order it. Then send me your thanks). I felt like Gene Laporta searing the meat, and putting together the bed of vegetables and fruits to cook the presa on. Meanwhile, Carol and Jennifer prepped vegetables, and more, for the sauce for the presa and the hake.
(Just to add to it, presa is like a pork steak, except the tastiest pork you will ever taste.)
I'm a little hazy on who did what, although I do know Don did not do a whole lot. To his credit, he did an impressive job scooping the frog melon balls, so he actually did some modest work. I did give him credit for creating the best scoops of frog melon I'd ever had. (Editor's Note: You've never had frog melon
I do know Carol was hard at work on the tomato gazpacho (which was quite tasty) and Jennifer was busy cutting things up. I figured it was safest to give her a wide berth whilst she had a sharp knife. She usually rolls her eyes and groans at my puns. . .I did not need her to take it to the next level by stabbing me.
Carol also cooked the chorizo with garlic and sweet wine. That was quite tasty.
My next job was to cut and toast the bread. That was harder than it sounds. First, I had to cut the bread lengthwise (see the bread below). Yves has an old toaster with no actual slots. Instead, well, I can't really explain it, so I won't, but suffice it to say, it wasn't a simple toasting process like we are used to.
After that, I sliced the small, thin-skinned tomatoes, rubbed them on the bread, added salt and olive oil, and we had fabulous pan con tomato. Once lunch was all set, we sat down in Yves' wonderful porch, and feasted!
The table of food. The presa is back left, and the
hake is back center. The chorizo is just in
front of them.
Carol cooks whilst Don safely stays
away from any actual work.
Prepping the pan con tomato, which is
one of the best ways to eat bread!
Slicing the presa.
Proof that Don stepped into the kitchen!
Our feast.
Don and Jennifer
Our feast, with Yves.
I would definitely do another Traveling Spoon. Having the time to go to the market made it that much more special.
Afterwards, Yves dropped us off at the Parc de Cervantes near the Diagonal Metro. We took the subway back, quietly thrilled by our market/cooking/dining experience.
Afterwards, Yves dropped us off at the Parc de Cervantes near the Diagonal Metro. We took the subway back, quietly thrilled by our market/cooking/dining experience.
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