After exploring the Cathedral and El Born, we got gelato from our favorite gelato shop (hey, going there twice so far means it is our gelato place!) on Carrer de la Argenteria. Then we chilled for a little while at the apartment.
We agreed we had been in Barcelona too long (two and a half days) without visiting the Mediterranean, so we walked the nearly mile down to the beach. Then we walked along the "boardwalk" (not actually made of boards) for nearly a mile, before doubling back.
On the way back, we stopped at a chiringuito for some cerveza for me and a gin and tonic for Carol. It was perfect, sitting by the sea and relaxing. We were amazed at the beach scene on a Monday. The beaches were packed with people, many swimming, others playing volleyball, but most simply relaxing in the sun.
We lingered over our drinks, and we liked it.
Then, we went to Disfrutar for dinner. In April 2018, when this idea of spending of a month in Barcelona was still a theory, I read a restaurant review in the Washington Post Sunday magazine by the esteemed Tom Sietsema. The title alone sold me -- "When in Barcelona, I'll have what Jose Andres is having." For those not in the DC area, Jose Andres has multiple restaurants, including two of our favorites (he also has restaurants in Vegas and NYC, among other places).
Anyhow, we had to scratch and claw for reservations at 8:45 pm at the counter on a Monday night(!). That's how popular it is. We could have Metro'd, but with Carol wearing a dress and me in sport coat and khakis, I was worried we would sweat through our clothes whilst in transit. So we cabbed for only the second time on this trip.
When we arrived, they were able to move us from the counter (which would have been cool to eat at) to the wine room, so that was nice.
We had the Disfrutar Classic menu. Thirty courses that took over three hours to eat. Disfrutar means "Enjoy" and was founded by three of the alumni of the famed El Bulli, which was considered the top restaurant in the world until it closed in 2011. Jose Andres worked three years at El Bulli (1988-1990) until he was fired and decided to come to America (our everlasting gain).
Obviously, with 30 courses, we are not talking large plates. These are small, very creative plates bursting with flavor and imagination. I think there was one plate we found underwhelming/not to our tastes. The rest was incredible. Many could be eaten in one bite, using your fingers to greedily shovel it to your mouth. We had a glass of Cava to start, and then shared a bottle of Finca Dofi 2014, Alvaro Palacios from Priorat. (You will note I haven't bored you with the name of every bottle of wine we've had, but this place is special!).
It's a once in a lifetime meal, similar to Inn at Little Washington or Jose Andres's Minibar.
(Editor's Note: So, you are saying it is NOT once in a lifetime? Blogger: Well, once in a lifetime to go to Disfrutar!).
If you want the meal of a lifetime, and you are in Barcelona, go to Disfrutar. But plan ahead, as reservations are scarce!
Wednesday, September 18, 2019
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