"An Ordeal Of The Most Grievous Kind"

Apparently, since the Churchill War Rooms opened to the public in 1984, every single American who has gone to London has gone to the War Rooms except us.  Whilst planning this trip, I've heard from so many friends raving about the War Rooms.  Going was to be the top priority for this trip.

The title of this post is another line from Churchill's first speech as Prime Minister to Parliament, the famed "blood, sweat, toil, and tears" speech of the 13th of May, 1940, when things looked pretty bleak for England, Europe, and the entire free world.

I often think about what a difficult task Churchill (and all of England) faced, standing up to the most evil person who ever lived.  I know that in some quarters it is fashionable to despise Churchill, but no one, and I mean no one, was as instrumental in rallying a cause and defeating Hitler as Churchill was.  Yes, Eisenhower was important, as was the Soviet effort from when the battle of Stalingrad turned the tide in the USSR.  It helped that Japan foolishly brought the U.S. into the war, but when things looked bleakest, there was Churchill with his indomitable spirit, standing in the gap, rallying a nation, and a world, on the brink of defeat to a madman.

My feelings too!

So yeah, there was no way we were going to miss the Churchill War Rooms.  We walked the 1.4 miles from our hotel to the War Rooms, as it was a pleasant morning and probably easier than changing Tube lines during rush hour to get there.  The best way to see a city is to walk it, and so we did.

Walking through the streets of London, we saw more British flags than I've ever seen before, as the decorations from the King's coronation remained hanging everywhere.  I tongue-in-cheek WhatsApp'd Geoff Lawler pointing out "More British flags on Regent Street than I've ever seen anywhere.  Are you acting like Americans?"

We arrived before our 9:30 entry time, so we enjoyed St. James Park for a few minutes before getting in line.  It was fun to check out the Great White Pelicans.  They are the only breed of pelican in the park, probably because of their white privilege.

The War Rooms did not disappoint.  I was a bit surprised (pleasantly I must point out) that the War Rooms were a paean to Churchill, which surprised me a little.  The rooms themselves were, understandably dingy and small.  It's amazing to think the tide of the war was turned starting with plans and policies made here.

For those uncertain about the war rooms, they were where the War Cabinet could be below ground and continue war planning and intelligence sifting whilst the Blitz was going on.  A controversy is that the War Rooms were not strengthened against a direct hit until months after the rooms were put into use.  They were essentially the central nervous system of the British effort to survive, turn the tide, and ultimately win the war.

Construction began in 1938, opened for use in 1939, a week before England declared war on Germany, and were used up until Japan surrendered in August 1945.  It's an interesting rabbit warren of narrow hallways and small rooms.  It's amazing how much successful direction of the war was done from these underground rooms (if it were the enemy, we'd call them "underground bunkers" instead of "underground rooms").

Churchill himself only spent three nights sleeping there, but he spent many, many hours talking with his Cabinet, working with staff, sifting through intelligence.

The rooms themselves are not remarkable in appearance.  They are only remarkable for what was done there.  And that is why you must go to the Churchill War Rooms.

My photos aren't that interesting, as it is dark, and a lot is behind glass that, because of the darkness, distorts/blurs the photos, but I include some of them so you get an idea of the central war effort underground:

Rooms were both bedrooms

and offices.

Office of a key Churchill aide.

Churchill's dining room.

There is also a large museum focused on Churchill's life that is quite interesting, although a bit overwhelming.

Coming out of the underground into the light felt a little (very little) like coming above ground after the war, out of darkness and into the light.

Much like Abraham Lincoln in the Civil War, or George Washington during the American Revolution, it is amazing how just the right person came to the fore for the United Kingdom during the battle against the Nazis.  Churchill was a remarkable man who the King and that nation turned to at the Darkest Hour.