Bolger Family Travels: A Memorable Meal & Great Fun

After reading raves in the Rick Steves book on Croatia about Dubrovnik Eat with Locals, I had to book it.

Rick Steves, whose book we have come to rely on for a significant amount of our trip planning, went on and on about what a wonderful experience the dinner and conversation is at the home Marija and Zlatko:

"(it) features a delicious, home-cooked dinner on their rustic patio. Come hungry: You'll join your hosts and a few other guests for an all-inclusive, whole-evening feast with several courses of food and drink.

"While the price tag is steep, this is some of the best, most delicious traditional Croatian food I've had anywhere--cooked with live and served with real insight, rather than cranked out for tourists."

One of the points Rick makes (we don't know him, but we feel like we do after many of his PBS shows and relying on his books) is that a lot of restaurants in Dubrovnik are schlock. So splurging for fantastic food and a fun night was well worth it.

It turns out that the three of us had dinner not only with Marija and Zlatko (a massive man -- there are more tall Croatian men then I've ever seen in my life in one country -- no wonder the badly out-numbered Croatians held off the Ottoman army and saved Europe!).

(Editor: Well, that's a long sentence that never reached the point you started out to make! Writer: Yes, well giving credit to Croatia for saving the West from invading hordes of Muslims is worth the digression transgression. Editor: ooh, "digression transgression" is a sweet turn of phrase. Writer: Blind squirrel, meet acorn.)

Anyhow, back to where I started before wandering off to the 1300-1500s, we had also had dinner with three other couples, all in their 30s (I'm guessing). I'm sure they wondered about this old couple (and Maddy), but we all hit it off, friendship fueled multiple shots of homemade grappa, homemade limoncello, homemade fruit liqueur, and copious pours by Zlatko of white wine and then red wine.

First we got an explanation of Zlatko's firewood grill, and a display of the main course, peka.

"Peka (“bell”) is a very popular traditional method of preparing various specialities across Croatia. It involves roasting the food over open flames using a clay or wrought-iron baking vessel." Source.

The peka in the iron

baking vessel.

Zlatko explaining the method

of cooking the peka.

The meal started with the most incredible, fresh charcuterie board, piled high with fruits, cheeses, and meats. Out came the fresh homemade bread that tasted like heaven, especially as we drizzled on the Croatian olive oil.

Then the tomato pie graced the table. I had to check my eating, because while filling up on tomato pie, bread, and charcuterie is an attractive proposition, I wanted to save some room for the main course!

A board overflowing with great food!

A plate of incredibly juicy tomatoes.

Tomato pie.

Marija, bless her heart, was trying to fill us in on their lives, Croatian food, and how they got into this business. Fueled by great food and alcohol, her guests were over talking through her discussion. We caught as much as we could, but we also enjoyed chatting with our fellow guests, a couple from Philadelphia, a long-distance couple from New York/London (the Londoner is from South Africa originally), and a modestly weird couple from Dallas.

Next, Zlatko brought out the leg of Croatian prosciutto and Marija carved away at it, slicing off fantastic fresh prosciutto and passing it around the table.

Marija carving. That's Carol's

hand passing around more

prosciutto to us ravenous

wolves!

The prosciutto on its stand, in all its' glory!

The Peka was impeccable. The best Peka I've ever had.

(Editor: Um, isn't it the ONLY Peka you've ever had. Writer: Yes, but this must be the gold standard of Peka, as it tastes so wonderful. Editor: Well, let's see it!)