It's Hip to Be Squares

As we came out of the tunnel into Old Havana for the first time, we were greeted by the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta (the Castle of San Salvador at the Point) in front of us, with the Castillo de los Tres Reyes and Morro (Castle of the Three Kings/the Moors) behind us.

We parked quickly (and easily – as it turns out, there is only modest traffic in Havana.  Pedestrians cross the street where ever and when ever they want, and the drivers wait patiently.  I bought six Cuban cigars in a shop – back at the end of the Cold War, I smuggled 50 Partagas Cubans in from Bulgaria.  The cost?  Just $25 dollars – the Communists needed hard currency quite badly back then. These six cost about $11 each, so there you go.

We checked out a place to buy rum but weren’t interested (we were warned not to buy cigars and other stuff on the street from people who approach you – it’s usually junk/counterfeit/cigars stuffed with newspaper, etc.).

After that, we walked down narrow streets with barricades to block cars, meaning that much of Old Havana is pedestrian only.  In turn, that means it is beautiful just to walk around.  Henry (our guide) was taking us to the four squares of Old Havana.  The first was the Plaza de la Cathedral, which is a stunning square dominated by, surprisingly, the Cathedral.  We went into the Cathedral, and we were allowed to take pictures.

The highlight of the Cathedral is paying $1 CUC each to go up the Tower.  There are three stops on it – one about halfway up, where there were numerous bells (before we went up, the guard warned us – “don’t ring the bell.”  We could see why – if every tourist who went up goofed around and ring a bell, it would be quite annoying.) He was quite a pleasant fellow – proud to claim American heritage – he had grown up in New Orleans!

Anyhow, there was an extended roof on the midlevel to walk around – great views.  The twisting, narrow stairs going up the first half of the tower got even scarier going up further – they turned into narrow wooden stairs with open areas and only one guard rail, so a missed step could easily mean a deadly plunge.  Carol declined.

Her loss, as the views from above are stunning.  The Capitol, el Morro, the Christ statue, the ocean.  If you go to Havana, you’d be kooky not to pay the one CUC (pronounced “kook”) not to go up the Tower.  (Oh, come on, you had to expect “kooky” was coming at some point!

Carol did get some great pictures of women in costume resting between hustling for photos.  I will post them soon.

(By the way, the Canadians we talked to at length said a reason they love coming to Cuba is that people don’t walk up to them to try and sell things or beg.  That may be true in Varadero (only resort workers are allowed there, despite it being a “public beach.”) but not in Havana.  It’s fine – not a complaint, just an observation, but do expect when you go to be approached to buy something, pay to pose with people in costume, or to give money.  (Okay, so that’s a foreshadowing!)

One square down, three to go.