Under The Bordeaux Sun

(Editor: So much for worrying about copyright infringement.

Writer: On a good day, maybe 300 people read the blog.  I don’t think Frances Mayes, the writer of “Under the Tuscan Sun” has anything to worry about.)

After checking into our hotel, Carol and I headed out to explore the city of Bordeaux.  Until I started planning for our free time in Bordeaux, I didn’t realize there is as much to see as there actually is.  Before leaving on the trip, I made a list of nine highlights to see, and, as it turns out, there’s even more to see.

I didn’t realize for the longest time that the heart of the city of Bordeaux is a large UNESCO World Heritage site, and that there are three UNESCO churches in the city.  

(Editor: Remember readers, you heard it here first, “UNESCO means you must go!”

Writer: Thanks for advertising my saying.  And people, read it aloud to your self – “U-NES-CO means you must go.  See how it cleverly rhymes?  Some day UNESCO is going to give me a major award for coming up with that saying.)

First Carol and I celebrated by having a drink at the rooftop bar and staring at all the church spires of the city, as well as at the Gironde River, visible from a few blocks away.

And then we got down to being Iron Tourists in Bordeaux.  We started out down Rue Saint Catherine, the main shopping street in the city.  It was packed with people and exuded a festive air.  I knew immediately and instinctively we were going to like Bordeaux, and not just the wine, but the city as well.

Rue du St. Catherine -- one

of the best pedestrian street

we've ever seen.

Our first stop was to the Cathedral Saint-Andre Bordeaux, a 17th century creation that is as amazing on the inside as it is on the outside.  Besides being a key early stop on the Camino, the cathedral also has a bell tower separated from the cathedral by a good hundred feet or so.  Given the geology of Bordeaux, the builders were afraid the added weight of the Bell Tower would cause it to sink, bringing the connected church down with it.

The Cathedral tower, built

unattached to the Cathedral

for safety and stability.

Mary and Jesus high atop the

Cathedral Tower.

Rose windows even look

great from the outside.

With their hats, these guys mitre be bishops.

Strong "above the door carvings"

game for this cathedral.

Solid rose window.

Trying to up my "take cool pictures of

the church ceiling" game.  Good start.

View from behind the altar

all the way down to the

other end of the cathedral.

From there, we went to the Grosse Cloche, one of the remaining city tower gates from the 18th Century.  There we were asked for help by an older Welshman and his London wife for help.  They were quite pleased that I happened to have an extra map, and could forward my list of Things To Do In Bordeaux list to them.  They are also big fans of Welcome to Wrexham, which is a fantastic documentary series.

The Grosse Cloche is one of

the oldest belfries in France.

Grosse Cloche selfie.

The bell was cast in 1775.  It

rings 18 times a year, six times

for major holidays, and twelve

times on the first Sunday of

the month.

We took in an arch down by the river, and right next to the Pont du Pierre, a bridge finished in 1819 by order of Napoleon.  Legend has it that it had 14 arches to honor the fact that Napoleon Bonaparte’s name has 14 letters.  But since the original plan Napoleon approved had nineteen arches, that story is unlikely.  

The iconic bridge Napoleon had built.

We searched and found a church Carol wanted to see, but not only was the tower closed, but so was the church.  Oh well.

We walked to another of the

handful of the remaining

city gates.  This had the iconic

scallop shells embedded by it,

indicating it was a route on

the Camino de Santiago

de Compostela.

From there, we walked along the Gironde River bank to the Place de la Bourse, the heart of the UNESCO site.  This stock exchange was built between 1730 and 1775 and is quite a handsome pair of matching buildings, with the Fountain of the Three Graces set out front.

Built in the 18th century (the fountain, not us).

The water mirror.  The fun

people are having gives one

something to reflect on.

Across the street by the river is the affecting Mirror d’eau (“water mirror” for readers whose French is on par with mine).  It is a rectangle shaped, very thin sheet of water.  Lots of kids and adults were playing in the water.  

The adults were mostly walking barefoot through it, while a number of the kids were laying down on the water and propelling themselves across parts of it.  The Mirror d’eau is clearly a popular addition to the waterfront.  On a hot day, playing in water sparks joy.

From there we headed back to the hotel to first clean up and then meet up with Don and Jennifer for dinner.  It was a good introduction to the city of Bordeaux.