The Back of Beyond In The Middle of Nowhere

The Australians have a phrase for what Americans call “the middle of nowhere.”  It’s pretty simple – “the back of beyond.”  And that’s where we went next.  

Pulling off the main road, the bus climbed, pulling us into an expansive wilderness.  (Since this is one paved road that goes all around Iceland, it’s pretty easy to know what is meant by “the main road” – primarily because it is THE main road!)

The ascent past a few isolated farms and sheep in groups of three was neat to see, but the payoff came as we topped over the initial mountain ridge.  We ended up in a high plain of eerie beauty.  Lava rocks big and small, views reminiscent of southern Utah, it was, as much of Iceland is, a visual treat. 

We stopped for a brief view break of, to the South, a broad, lonely, well, mountain does not quite describe it.  One of the group was reminded of Ayer’s Rock (Uluru) in Australia’s Northern Territory.  Up to that point, I had been thinking of Mont St. Michel, as it was hard by the ocean, and surrounded by lowland and rivers.

It was Katla Geopark, and geo it is.

View of the "island" from Katla.  Just to the right

is where we went to the beach for shots

of Brenninvin

Views from Katla

Impressionist painting, or alien gang signs?

Well, whatever it is -- it's pretty neat.

We filed back onto the bus, and headed down the twists and turns to the lowland.  Eventually the road came to an end at a magical spot.  Pakgil.  Although that’s not really the name.  The first letter is not really a “P,” but a funky half-letter that has not existed in English for one thousand years or so (that’s a WAG – wild ass guess).  

It’s a little box canyon with a small river (large stream?  – I am not sure what the difference is) surrounded by the greenest cliffs of wild lava.  There’s a campsite that includes a small office and pay toilets in another building.  I would hope the 100 Icelandic kroner fee ($1) for use of the toilets is not something the campers have to pay, as it is built into the cost.  If not, a camp stay could get expensive.  

But, I digress.  (Editor’s Note: True.  Readers don’t care that a nice toilet in the middle of nowhere costs money to use.  Blogger: Au contraire!)

We hiked up into the canyon along the river, which was running wild with snow melt and rainfall.  There was not really one big waterfall.  Instead it was more of a series of small waterfalls, darting and daring.  At the top, which was not the top of the canyon, but was as far as the trail went, there was a larger waterfall with a pool.  It’s the kind of pool that in Hawaii would make for a warm and inviting swim, but in Iceland made more for a cold water photo backdrop.

It was a short hike, but completely worth it.