Parc Guell might be the most impressive park in the world.
Editor’s Note: First time I’ve jumped a comment right after your lede.
Blogger: What brought this on?
Editor’s Note: In your post about Parc Ciutadella, you called it your favorite urban park in the world.
Blogger: Yeah, so?
Editor’s Note: Then how is Parc Guell the most impressive park in the world and it's only your second favorite in Barcelona?
Blogger: Chill out, dude. I will cover that in this post.
Anyhow, now that this spat is behind us, let me sing the praises of Parc Guell. Yet another UNESCO World Heritage site (remember, kiddos, “UNESCO means ‘You must go!’”), it is a private park system on Carmel Hill in Barcelona.
It’s a very popular tourist site, even with the entrance fee. Built from 1900 to 1914 by Antoni Gaudi, it was an investment by industrial and Gaudi patron Eusebi Gaudi into a housing development set in a park.
The architecture in Parc Guell (named after a guy who liked to have things named after himself, but didn’t think everything had to be gold-plated to look classy) is pure Gaudi. No straight lines, colorful broken up tiles arranged to delight the eyes, heart, and mind, using nature in the architecture, homages to God – all the things that make Gaudi spectacular, and in a park-like setting.
It’s not one of my favorite Gaudi sites, however, as it is always overcrowded (even though the limit the number of tickets). And now, in what appears to be an attempt to manage the tourist flow, they closed different walkways or shut the traffic flow down to one direction (yes, my cynical readers, only boy bands are allowed in certain areas).
The changes were actually desperately needed, but there are no signs about them. Well, there may be signs, but the signs are only in Catalan. Providing signs in all three languages, Spanish and English as well as Catalan would stop a lot of confusion.
Nearly all important signs in the various sights of the city are in those three languages. Before you jump down my throat for being a typical American who expects signs in English, let me defend myself:
1. Guilty as charged.
2. Signs everywhere else in Barcelona are either in two or three languages. Carol reads Spanish really well, so even a two weeks
3. Yes, I get that it is a political and cultural statement to just use Catalan, but why cause confusion when the goal should be to provide clear information to the majority of your paying customers.
4. Provide maps with foot traffic flow arrows instead of making people guess.
5. Train your info workers in the park to be friendly, not surly like the current ones are. Here’s a phrase for them to use: “My pleasure!” after being thanked for providing the least amount of clarifying information possible.
All that said, it’s still worth going to Parc Guell. Ironically, some of the signs call it “Park Guell.” I know I’m repeating myself, but Antoni Gaudi was the greatest architect of all time, so you should drink in as much of his intoxicating work as you can.
Anyhow, since you can only go down the main staircase, known as the Dragon Staircase – and it is grand, with the glass tiled lizard fountain (sorry, but it is NOT a dragon) and other mind-blowing creative decorations, we wandered up to the next level on the outer path. That was also closed to the public. We were stopped by the security guy.
We went into the Hypostyle room, which was supposed to house the weekly market. As the Park website describes it:
“The ceiling is formed of small domes constructed using the traditional technique of clay bricks decorated with original tile-shard mosaics made by Josep M. Jujol, one of Gaudí’s assistants.”
There are also 86 striated Doric columns holding up the roof of the room. It really does inspire awe.
We then walked up another staircase to what was once called the “Greek Theater” and is now called “Nature Square.” It has beautiful tiled benches, impressive views of the park, especially the Porter’s Lodge and Entrance, of Barcelona overall (including Sagrada Familia), and even to the Mediterranean Sea.
We headed through the stunning Porticos and down to the Dragon Staircase and out the stunning entrance.
At one point Carol wondered aloud what Gaudi would think of how people react to his works. I thought for a minute and replied that he would be proud that, 100+ years later people would still be drawn to his amazing work. The man had a gift, and he used that gift both for greatness and for goodness.
And now to address the burgeoning Parc de la Ciutadella/Parc Guella controversy. Parc Ciutadella is a public park. Every time we've been there, it is full of happy people enjoying life. They are chasing bubbles, dancing traditional Catalan dances, dancing to pop music, spread out on blankets enjoying a picnic, playing basketball, walking their dogs, sitting on a bench watching the world go by, walking up and around the massive fountain. It's very enticing.
Parc Guell is also full of people, but they seem more concerned with their next Instaface post than living in the moment, enjoying life to its fullest. In the Ciutadella, you are with people but not crammed in with people. Guell is mind-blowing because of Gaudi's work, but the opportunity for private contemplation of the wonders of his work are few and far between. And besides, Parc de la Ciutadella is free and you don't need a pre-scheduled ticket to enter.
Go to both!
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