Segovia is the capital of suckling pig in the country that made suckling pig great. Oh, Cuban pig is awesome, but there’s few things better than suckling pig in Spain, especially in Segovia.
I had it at Botin Restaurante in Madrid, but I really couldn’t wait to get to Segovia to really enjoy it. With the great wine region Ribera del Duero less than an hour to the north, I envisioned pairing suckling pig with that a bottle of RdD wine.
And so, as on they said on “We Crashed,” I manifested both. Not once, not twice, but all three nights in town. Oh, I had told myself I would only order it two nights, but when I saw suckling pig was the specialty of the house at the third night’s restaurant we ate at, I had to go three for three. Who knows if I will ever have suckling pig again – it’s not like it is a specialty in a region of America (that I know of, at least!).
The first night, I had booked at the Meson de Candido, less than a half-mile walk from our hotel and, more importantly, in the shadows of the Roman Aqueduct. It was fantastic. When four different, independent sources recommend it, we definitely had to go. Carol had the suckling lamb, which tasted great too. However, as much as I love lamb, I was not to be deterred.
The second night we ate at Jose Maria, which was a bit of a haul up from our hotel, located just off Plaza Mayor, at the other end from the Cathedral. However, any walk through Segovia is romantic (except for our walk back to the hotel).
I think the suckling pig at Jose Maria’s is the best of the three. Carol opted for lamb chops – once again passing on suckling pig at one of the two restaurants that put it on the map of the city that puts it on the map! Both Rick Steves and our guide that morning, Mariano, both recommend Jose Maria. Interestingly, when you order wine there, you have a choice of a glass or a bottle.
(Editor’s Note: Glen, that’s not unusual – nearly all restaurants that sell wine offer by the glass or by the bottle. Writer: No, you didn’t read it closely. You get a choice of A glass or A bottle – there is no wine list with multiple options. There is ONLY ONE OPTION. THAT is unusual! Editor: I see your point.)
Before you are scandalized by our walk back to the hotel was not romantic, you have to understand that it was raining cats and dogs. That was soft of fine, but the thunder and lightning took an iffy situation and made it a bit scary. We took a shortcut, but that required us to walk on slick cobblestones down multiple flights of stairs. Neither of us slipped/fell, mostly because we made sure to take it slow.
The third night we ate at La Codorniz, which was literally just around the corner from our hotel, as in “you leave the hotel, turn left for half a block, turn the corner, and there it is.” Even though the place was unheralded, the suckling pig was still pretty good. On the third night, Carol ended up getting the suckling pig, which she ended up liking quite a bit.
Was I slightly irritated that she passed on suckling pig at two renowned places before finally ordering it and liking it at the third place? No, what makes you say that I was slightly irritated? It’s not like you can see that my teeth are clenched as I’m writing this! Please though, for the sake of our marriage, don’t mention my irritation to Carol, because I’m pretty sure I didn’t show it, although I might have.
Look, the third place was great too, and it was nice to stagger out full of suckling pig and Ribera del Duero and only have about 200 feet back to the hotel.
Since I will never been be back in Segovia again, I doubt I will ever again have suckling pig three nights in a row, much less two nights.
(Editor’s Note: You wrote this much about suckling pig restaurants in Segovia? Really? Writer: Isn’t it glorious?)
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