The Roman Aqueduct in Segovia turned out to be more than I could comprehend. It’s one of those things that hovers over a town, and, whether up close or from a distance, blows your mind.
We first saw it when we went to dinner Friday night. Our restaurant, Meson di Condido, was right at the base of the Aqueduct where it comes into plaza del Azoguejo, the beginning of the main part of old Segovia. It’s stunningly beautiful, and I couldn’t stop looking at it. Along with the city walls of Avila, the Aqueduct of Segovia is, to me, one of the most unforgettable sights of the trip.
To me, it is a joy to behold. It was built sometime in the first century AD to bring water from the mountains (specifically Rio Frio, which is fun to say ten times fast – try it now) to Segovia. It is 16 kilometers long (nearly ten miles), and is built on a one percent grade. The Roman engineers calculated that anything steeper than one percent would cause the water to rush too fast and spill over the sides. The aqueduct curves significantly during its 16 kilometer journey from the mountains, and yet it works perfectly. In this case, UNESCO means “you must flow.”
Historians don’t agree on the finish date – there is evidence to suggest 98 AD, 112 AD, or even 117 AD. In the words of a famous US Marshal, Samuel Gerard, “I don’t care.” Any of those three dates, and it still works (from time to time), is, in the word of Vizzini, “Inconceivable.” (And yes, in this case, I DO know what that word means). A portion of the aqueduct was destroyed by the Moors in 1072, and there was a reconstruction (following the reconquista) by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. It provided water to Segovia until the mid 19th century. Less than ten years ago, traffic passing under the arches was restricted to ambulances, fire, and police.
Our tour guide for Segovia, Mariano, who works for Destino Toledo, the same guide company that Javi works for, did an excellent job talking about the Aqueduct, filling us with facts and information about it, as well as telling a fantastic myth about the building of it. We spent plenty of time walking around plaza del Azoguejo as he pointed out information about it. Mariano also told us a fabulous myth about the building of the Aqueduct (next post below).
Romans insist that they built the Aqueduct, and even gave Segovia a statue of Remus and Romulus being suckled by a wolf as a way to lay claim to the Aqueduct, but I like the devil did it myth below.
We were able to climb up the hill to where the outside part of the aqueduct goes underground. At the highest point, it reaches a height of 93 feet, 6 inches. I’m not sure of the height when it towers over the Plaza de Diaz Sanz, but the 88 double arches are absolutely stunning. There are also 79 single arches, for a total of 167 arches just in the city alone!
I could go on and on about the aqueduct, but if you are the traveling kind, go see it for yourself. We have seen portions of aqueducts before, but all pale in comparison to the wonder that it Segovia’s more-than-adequate Aqueduct.
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