Some Avila Food Notes

Avila is known for two main regional specialties.  The first is are "yemas. known as the "yolks of Santa Teresa."  They are small orange balls made out of egg yolk and sugar, and are sold everywhere in Avila.

(Editor's Note: Surely you don't mean "everywhere?"  Writer: I pretty much do mean everywhere, and don't call me Shirley.)

The origin of the pastry is uncertain, but they became widespread and popular in Avila in the 19th century.  They are quite small (but not at all expensive).  Carol liked them.  I'm undecided.  They are not bad, but I also don't seen what the fuss is all about.  If you come to Avila, they are definitely something worth trying, and the pastry is now available in pastry shops throughout Spain, and can even be ordered in the States.

The other regional specialty is a cut of meat known as the "Chuleton de Avila."  It is a massive cut of meat, sold by the kilogram.  It is a steak, veal, or ox chop.  It is found in other Spanish regions, but started in Avila.  It is meant to be shared and is generally served rare.  I'm looking forward to mail-ordering some from Campo Grande, one of two American websites where one can order Spanish specialties.

Our first night in town, while I was trying to get to the parking beyond the city walls, I drove past a cool look restaurant specializing in Chuleton.  So we ended up going there for dinner, and the steak was both huge (Carol and I shared it) and fantastic.  The restaurant is LaLumbre and if you are looking for Chuleton, it's a great place to get it.  The chef showed us the meat before grilling it, which is always a nice touch.

Now, given that it is a city specialty, it's not surprising that there are many other restaurants in Avila that feature Chuleton.  If you see one close to where you are staying and it looks good, go for it -- but do get Chuleton if you are a meat eater and in Avila for a night.

The second night in town, I had made dinner reservations at El Almacen, a restaurant in an old warehouse on the other side of town.  It's a Michelin Guide restaurant, which means you get excellent food and service at far less than the price of a Michelin Star restaurant (yeah, the food isn't as good, but Guide restaurant food is several cuts above).

To get there, we walked a mile, largely on the outside of the city walls looking west as the sun was going down.  Looking back at the walls, the interplay of the light on the city walls was dramatic.  We crossed the pedestrian bridge across the Adaja River.  

El Almacen affords stunning views of the city, and we were in the catbird seat, as we lucked into the best seats in the house.  The service was fabulous, and the meal was excellent.  Highly recommend both places.